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  #16  
Old 04-14-2014, 01:36 PM
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bandersen bandersen is offline
RCA 741PCS
 
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How well do they work on old TV and radio chassis ?

The equipment I use most often is -

Soldering station (Weller WES-51)
Isolation transformer (Sencore PR57)
DMM (Fluke 27/FM military surplus. accurate, inexpensive, tough)
CRT / tube tester (Sencore CR70, Hickok 121 & 600A)
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Last edited by bandersen; 04-14-2014 at 01:53 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-14-2014, 01:58 PM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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I used a shop-owned 808 at my old job. It was nice to use. I don't know how it would serve on non-PCB applications. Nice thing about it, is the built in vac pump. You just hold the trigger and it keeps on sucking (and wind-cooling the tip unfortunately). For my personal use, I use my cheap-o manual pump desoldering iron. It suits me fine for PCB work.

On the 808 though- We had it around for probably the last 3 years before I got laid off. In all that time and probably hundreds if not thousands of components desoldered with it, I only needed a tip change once.
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  #18  
Old 04-14-2014, 05:31 PM
powerking powerking is offline
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Bob,

I have been using the Hakko 808 now for the last 8 months on various projects. It works well on any PC boards, tube sockets, tie strips, etc. You just have to use the correct size tip (for smaller multi-layer PCB via's) or the larger tip like 1.6mm for vintage point to point de-soldering jobs (and set the heat pot for some extra umph). The de-solder braid will fast move farther and farther away from the workbench after using this tool...

Tom (PK)

Last edited by powerking; 04-14-2014 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Content fix
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  #19  
Old 04-14-2014, 07:47 PM
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Jon A. Jon A. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Beauvex View Post
Not a piece of test equipment, but I've heard nothing but good things about the Hakko 808 de-soldering iron. I saw one used in a video several years ago on You Tube and it makes de-soldering a snap. I want one plenty bad.
There's one for my electronic tools bucket list.
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2014, 11:08 PM
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Boobtubeman Boobtubeman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxhifi View Post
Get an isolation transformer, for hot chassis sets.

I second the vote for the Simpson 260, I've got one too.
Speaking of Simpson meters, anyone know how to fix one?

Friend forgot to disconnect work from meter before shutting it off and cooked something in the AC test side of it...

SR
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  #21  
Old 08-08-2014, 06:10 PM
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Jon A. Jon A. is offline
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My arsenal thus far:

Fluke 77 digital multimeter
Zenith 852-120 50Kv HV probe
Zenith 852-240 ultrasonic remote tester
Weller SPG40 soldering iron with a Dremel 219 speed control box for temperature control
Sencore PR57 isolated variac
Sencore CR70 CRT tester
B&K Precision 1479A 30MHz oscilloscope
Leader LCG400 NTSC pattern generator

Last edited by Jon A.; 09-14-2017 at 01:03 AM.
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  #22  
Old 08-08-2014, 11:22 PM
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Tubejunke Tubejunke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boobtubeman View Post
Speaking of Simpson meters, anyone know how to fix one?
Simpson still services all of their large line of test equipment. They have authorized service labs all over the country. Check out their site. I think the following url will take you to the download of the user manual and schematic: http://www.simpson260.com/.../simpso...anual-1969.pdf

I'm not sure what model you have, but there is a great identification part of the site where you can find your "series" and the years of its run. The url is for a 260 which is what most people have in some version. They have been making the 260 model since around the 40s up to today and it has changed little other than some genuine improvements. So that identifier page helps a lot to know what you have. A 260 is NOT a 260 despite what many of us think as I did until I looked mine up. I have a 303 VTVM that looks similar. Can't get the AC measurement right on that one. A whole different ball of wax...
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  #23  
Old 08-12-2014, 09:10 PM
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N2IXK N2IXK is offline
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I recently purchased a vacuum desoldering station for doing PC board work, but the thing is proving itself quite useful for working on old point-to-point wired tube gear as well. Much nicer and quicker than solder wick or the syringe type solder suckers. The unit is bought is reviewed here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft50m8UU5WQ

The build quality isn't the greatest, but it works GREAT, and is considerably cheaper than the Haako. Haako surely better for daily use, but for $165 on Amazon.com I don't think you can beat this thing for occasional hobby use.

http://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-St...dp/B00KQ6PR6K/
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2014, 02:25 AM
powerking powerking is offline
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Personally, I'd spring for the extra $30-$40 more for the Hakko 808. Cheap tools do have their place, but when it comes to a tool like this, I want something that is good quality, made by a reputable mfg, will last, and can get parts for.


Tom
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2014, 03:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerking View Post
personally, i'd spring for the extra $30-$40 more for the hakko 808. Cheap tools do have their place, but when it comes to a tool like this, i want something that is good quality, made by a reputable mfg, will last, and can get parts for.


Tom
+1.
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  #26  
Old 08-13-2014, 12:15 PM
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NoPegs NoPegs is offline
The glass is -3dB.
 
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I'm with N2IXK on this one. (Although I paid ever so slightly less for mine.) It does a damned good job for the money.

After having a few times where "braid-rationing" was in effect, I decided to dual-wield my 888D and the ZD985 and take a decent crack at point-to-lug assemblies. Basically my technique is use the medium tip (for best vacuum action.) on the 985, heat the joint up with the 888D, then get in there and suck! The 985 can't transfer the heat necessary to most point-to-point connections unless by some miracle you have a lead poking out in the right place, even then not so much. (Designed for board rework.) but once the joint is actively flowing, it does a damned fine job of removing the solder.
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2014, 10:30 PM
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Jon A. Jon A. is offline
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I'm for protecting one's investment. Not that I haven't fumbled this my share of times. Who knows when something like that would break and the whole thing would have to be replaced because parts are NLA. I'd rather pony up extra for a quality item. Also, my equipment has to look good to me to be worth purchasing, and that hardware is like, ewww...
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  #28  
Old 08-14-2014, 03:28 PM
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jr_tech jr_tech is offline
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Anybody here using a station that includes hot air for large surface mount parts, or should the hot air wand be a separate piece of gear from the de-solder/solder sucker unit?

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Profesio...ir+desoldering

Edit add: It appears that the Hakko 808 has been discontinued, so it might be prudent to buy soon if one is desired.

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?C...PID=838&Page=1

Newer model Hakko:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-300-H...ko+desoldering

no affiliation,
jr

Last edited by jr_tech; 08-14-2014 at 04:28 PM. Reason: add note about 808 and newer FR-300
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  #29  
Old 08-15-2014, 09:35 AM
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NoPegs NoPegs is offline
The glass is -3dB.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Anybody here using a station that includes hot air for large surface mount parts, or should the hot air wand be a separate piece of gear from the de-solder/solder sucker unit?

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Profesio...ir+desoldering

Edit add: It appears that the Hakko 808 has been discontinued, so it might be prudent to buy soon if one is desired.

http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?C...PID=838&Page=1

Newer model Hakko:

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR-300-H...ko+desoldering

no affiliation,
jr

I prefer my hot air wand to be a standalone unit. If I had to do it all over again though I'd get one with the fan/pump/blower/compressor/bellows/whatever in the tabletop box and just a thicker umbilical to the hand-piece. Either that or I'd buy one with a higher build quality blower in the hand-piece. The vibration from mine at *certain* speed settings makes my hands tingle after 5-10 minutes of use. I usually just pop a mechanic's glove on and that takes care of things. I'll also add "Lowest setting of ~50C instead of 100C" to my wish list next time. (Hot shouldn't automatically mean at least boiling.)


If you don't have one already, holy crap get one. Even if you only ever use it for heat-shrink, thermal fault troubleshooting, or re-stuffing caps they're awesome and affordable. (Hell, RadioShack even sells one now for $30. I can't speak for that one but it can't be terrible.)
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  #30  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:53 PM
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Findm-Keepm Findm-Keepm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post
My arsenal thus far:

Fluke 8024B DMM (Had my name written all over it... well, actually my month and year of birth are in the instruction manual I downloaded, close enough)
EDS 88A ESR/DCR meter
Zenith 852-120 50Kv HV probe
Zenith 852-240 ultrasonic remote tester
A cheapie 15/30w soldering iron that I really need to get a replacement for. Got that before I got into TVs.
Does your ultrasonic remote tester have the mod to test IR remotes and System 3 drive signals? Zenith went all out with mods to the '240, with neat little articles among their service lit showing how to use it for just about everything. We had a Ziploc style bag with all of the addons for checking horiz drive, vertical drive, and some other checks that involved resistors clipped into the circuit, with the '240 attached in parallel to one of the resistors. I'll di around and see what I can find.

The IR mod added a IR diode, and you drilled a hole in the case to accommodate the diode. The drive mod added two leads and the leads came out of the case through the ultrasonic mic slats cut in the case. The rest of the "mod" parts were external - mostly resistors and a cap or two for coupling. Zenith really liked to add tasks to the remote checker. GE had a similar bitch box for checking their sets - dropped it's use entirely after the MA/MB chassis sets. I used it to check B+ right up into the 2000s. Really neat little testers...

Cheers,
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