Hoping to see pics of filter cap replacements

[freakaftr8]

Can anyone post a pic of thier filter cap replacement ideas? I like the idea of the terminal strip, just not sure if I want to mount it on top or the bottom of the chassis.. Kinda going for the original look but at the same time, functionality is in mind too. Sorry im such a noob, just dont want to make a mistake, I should have listened to JpDylon... I almost killed my flyback!!

[Adam]

Here's links to pics of a ctc-15 chassis in a Philco I did, where I just left the old cans in place, disconnected them, and mounted the new caps under the chassis.

The chassis still looks original from the top: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/att...1&d=1177725186

But you can see the new caps underneath: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/att...8&d=1177725186

I've also seen some guys hollow out the old cans and fit the new caps inside them to maintain a really original look, I've never tried that but I think I've seen pics of it here somewhere.

[Eric H]

I have some pics at home of a can I restuffed for my ctc7, I can post them later tonight.

[freakaftr8]

Thanks for the pics guys, got a question though, should I replace all the filter caps? There are like 3 or 4 to as can ranging from 80mfd at 450 down to 50 at 50.. Should I just go ahead and order all the caps or just the high voltage ie the 80mfd at 450?

[Eric H]

OK, here's a cap I did today for a Zenith.

First pic shows the caps in place, hardest part is figuring out how to best arrange them.
I was lucky on this one and was able to get all 4 inside the can, sometimes they just wont fit and you have to settle for 2 out of 3 or 3 out of 4 and mount the last one under the chassis.

Second pic shows the wires coming out the bottom, I drill a very small hole near the lug, wrap it around and solder it.
I added a second ground wire because I wasn't comfortable with the current of all 4 caps passing through the one very small lead.

Last pic shows the can glued back on.
Can you tell it's been restuffed, sure, but only if you are looking for it.

Finding a can cap with all the correct values that's also new enough to be worth bothering with is near impossible.

AES has some made for Guitar Amps that might work but they are really expensive.

[Kuma]

Here's a great tutorial that explains the entire process:

http://www.antiqueradio.org/recap.htm

I'm in the process of doing the exact same thing with an amp of mine, and decided to use terminal strips below the chassis. I've removed the multisections (after taking photos and making very clear notes for reattaching all the wires) and cleaned their terminals - I'll reinstall the multisections in order to use their ground points- that is, where they attach to the chassis - for the new capacitors. From what I understand, this should eliminate the introduction of any new ground loops (60 Hz hums), as well as maintaining the original look of the amp.

Some components' leads were a bit short for connecting to the terminal strip, so I'm now awaiting some new cloth covered wires to complete the project.

Regarding your question about replacing ALL of them - go for it while you've got it apart. Old electrolytic capacitors will eventually fail - and new ones will be better than the old ones, even if they are functioning properly.

I'll post pictures of my own project when it's completed.

Take your time, and note well the connection points (photos are helpful, but can also be deceiving - so write it all down too), and it should turn out just fine.

[freakaftr8]

Hey thanks for the pics of the caps!!!
Ok guys heres the scoop... I found some electrolytics from the internet, all are axial or radial. I was reading up on how if you cannot find the exact match numbers you can stray a little on tube radios.. Will this apply on televisions as well? On the original can ratings I found 80mfd 450v, 3 of these, I got the correct replacements. 450v 33mfd, I will replace with 450v 33mfd. 450v 50mfd I wil replace with 450v 47mfd. Is that ok?

[Chad Hauris]

It is better to go a little over the rated capacitance if you can't find the exact value...I'd do a 47 paralleled with a 10 to make 57.

[Steve McVoy]

I don't think it is necessary to parallel a 10 with the 47. Modern electrolytics are right on the money in terms of stated value, while the originals were plus or minus 20 percent or so. That means that the original could have been anywhere from 40 to 60 mfd. Engineers designed the sets to work fine with the lowest value they expected to see from an electrolytic. 47 is well above 40, so it will work fine.

[freakaftr8]

Good to know!!! Thanks guys!!!