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  #16  
Old 02-26-2005, 10:42 PM
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nasadowsk nasadowsk is offline
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Awww, I'd trade, but the FBP22 in there now is in, like, perfect shape

I got the set from a guy who got it from one of our fellow AK color guys (I'll let him ID himself if he wants to), who restored it and did a great job. I just had to tighten up a few loose sockets from over the years - aren't vert chassis sets great? Just needs a convergence and a purity setup and all, and it'll be ready for use. Oh yeah, and a new Horz output/damper pair - they're probbably ready. And I might swap 6BK4s - this one regulates but I noticed this really really really freaky glow inside it, like a deep blue all over the inside of the envelope... Creepy. You look at it and it *screams* "don't touch me or you'll land on your ass!!!" It's not the outside, I clean clean cleaned the tube up and it's still there...

BTW - they list that tube as a voltage regulator for color or B&W sets. Did any B&W ones ever use it?

Hmm, I need a CT100. Actually, I need a 4, a 5 and a 9 now too

Anyone ever see that 7 with the full function remote? Mine only does on/off/mute/channel. I gotta find the docs on it too, it's out of tune and acts funny
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  #17  
Old 02-26-2005, 10:46 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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well, I had an 807 tube do the same exact thing. all blue envelope. Hate to say it, but that means the tube is gassy and is going to air.
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2005, 11:36 PM
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Oh well... I got a few 6BK4s laying around, no biggie
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2005, 11:56 PM
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reeferman reeferman is offline
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According to the RCA Field Service guide, the -7 had the CYP22, the -9, -10, had the CYP22A, and the -11 listed the CYP22A, FBP22, or FJP22. As far as the NE2 lamps, there are 2 of them in series. Terminal #1 of the brightness control is connected to a 470K resistor and a .01 (to chassis ground). On the other side of that 470K resistor you will find 2 of the NE2 lamps in series to ground. Another way is to go to pin 2 (grid) of 6CG7 (V707-B blanker tube) which is directly connected to the NE2.

Last edited by reeferman; 02-27-2005 at 12:08 AM.
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2005, 05:07 AM
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Pete Deksnis Pete Deksnis is offline
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Yo Phil, thanks for updating my 65-yr-ol memory module with hard facts re the use of a 21CYP22A. Also, I believe some CTC10's had only one NE2, and it is these guys that had the high failure rate. Puzzle: the set 'looks' like a '10 to me (4 horizontal knobs, defraction-grating-tyle 'COLOR' plaque), but the knobs don't fit my memory-module's recollection. Do you recall if they were also on the 11's?

Tim: Think I saw NE2's in a Radio Shack bin the other day; those in the set have pigtail leads, though.
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  #21  
Old 02-27-2005, 12:07 PM
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Wow Tim! That 10 is super-duper clean! You couldn't have asked for a better example! That set is definately a keeper! Good luck with straightening out that weak picture.

Doesn't someone else here have a 10 with that same cabinet style? Seems I recall one other like it here on AK.

My 9 has the CYP "A" version in it as well.... and still tests good.

Curious... when you bring home something like that, do the kids get all excited over it? When my daughter was younger, she would take a pretty good interest in what I brought home and have many questions about it. Now, about to turn 13, her tastes are changing. She'll look at it for a moment, but now her main question is, "Is this set color?"
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Last edited by Charlie; 02-27-2005 at 01:53 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-27-2005, 01:12 PM
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Kamakiri Kamakiri is offline
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Little Nick just loves anything with buttons and knobs....we have our hands full keping him away from the Sansui G-901 in the living room. Now when he wants to listen to music and dance around, he turns it on, hands us the CD player remote, and makes a noice approximate to what he wants to hear. Funny as heck!

As for Joey, unless he can help work on it or if it works, he couldn't care less
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  #23  
Old 02-27-2005, 02:59 PM
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Chad Hauris Chad Hauris is offline
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I have had some sets with problems in the 6BK4 circuit cause a very dim picture on a good crt due to low HV. Measure the 6BK4 current (voltage drop across the 1000 ohm cathode resistor). Current should be 800-1000 microamperes (about .8 to 1 volt drop across the resistor if I remember correctly). There is 400 volts on both sides of the resistor. In an older set like this one, the resistor may not be in place, though.
If you have an HV probe check the CRT HV, you will probably find it low.

Also have had a 6BK4 that drew too much current and pulled down the HV too much. Replacing the tube solved the problem. I have seen the glow in the 6BK4 but I don't think its any problem.

Worked on a set this week where someone had turned the HV control all the way up and you could hear arcing, picture was very blurry...turning down the HV control really made a difference.
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Last edited by Chad Hauris; 02-27-2005 at 03:02 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02-27-2005, 03:14 PM
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Charlie Charlie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Hauris
Current should be 800-1000 microamperes (about .8 to 1 volt drop across the resistor if I remember correctly).
Chad, this point brings a question to mind. While making this check on the regulator current, is it better to have a station tuned in? Or, switch to an unused channel?

If you take there current reading with a station tuned in, the reading with fluctuate depending on what's going on in the picture... different scenes, brightness going up and down, and so forth. i've monitored the 6BK4 current for up to 15 minutes or so at a time. The readings go up and down with the picture... anywhere from 700-1300 microamperes. I would just try to make the adjustment to where it would average out to be around 900-1000.

Even the adjustment directions in Sams says to tune in a channel for this adjustment, but, would it be better using a channel with just snow?
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  #25  
Old 02-27-2005, 04:44 PM
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iirc you set hv at zero beam current(black)
and blue glow on the inside of the glass is ok.
inside the elements is bad.
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  #26  
Old 02-27-2005, 09:32 PM
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reeferman reeferman is offline
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Knob arrangement

Hey Pete. Checked the service guide, and the knob arrangement seems to be the the same for the -10 and -11. In fact, there seems to be a LOT of similarity between the two chassis EXCEPT the -11 has a reworked 2nd video (obviously to eliminate the pesky NE2), and a rework of the screen controls to better accomodate whatever CRT was installed, at the factory or down the road.
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  #27  
Old 02-27-2005, 09:54 PM
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reeferman reeferman is offline
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RCA Colorama

If the CRT base says Colorama, then it's a replacement.
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  #28  
Old 02-28-2005, 02:23 AM
frenchy frenchy is offline
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don't let those kids sit so close to the screen, they'll get X-rays! It will ruin your eyes!!! Just kidding. Remember those warnings when we were kids?
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  #29  
Old 02-28-2005, 08:46 AM
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rcaman rcaman is offline
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hey i have the same set. wait let me go see if mine is still here. mine was given to me by a nice older couple. it was stored in a barn for years. the cabinet was not in good shape. i had it redone restored the chassis ordered a new picture tube from video display. this set has a super bright picture and great color. and yes you do need to change the neon bulb and the 2mfd at 400 volt cap on the video board. good luck with your new set. steve
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  #30  
Old 02-28-2005, 07:10 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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lol. i heard storys that you werent allowed even near the set because of the implosion possibility.
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