#1
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color drives
how is it that there could be so much color content with the r,g,b, drives counter clockwise and just a small adjustment to the b,g drives to clean it up alittle.
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#2
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Were you expecting a black and white image or a more uniform gray-scale than you have?
With the drives down you will still get a color picture unless you turn the color knob (located among the front user controls) down. Gray scale adjustment consists of both the drives and the screen/G2 adjustments so if the gray scale is off adjust those controls. Drives fix tinted whites, and screens fix tinted blacks.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#3
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If the set lacks a setup switch, the best way to set the grey scale tracking is (with the color control off) is: turn the brightness down till the image is almost extinguished, just barely visible. Set the screens to make the image white, then bring the brightness back up. Then use the drives to un-tint the pic (or tint it to your preferance). Usually one drive will be near max with the other(s) slightly reduced.
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#4
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Quote:
One caveat - Motorolas with the 23EGP22's - let em run for several hours and re-adjust as necessary. They always seemed to shift considerably. Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#5
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well its just the never ending problems i have with this 63 silvertone as it seems as if the r,g,b drives are being driven to hard and loading down the hv. or the crt is bad in some way with the blue mark that formed on the glass. im grasping at straws at this point, im out of possible causes here.
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Audiokarma |
#6
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Measure all the CRT voltages & if you can post the CRT
area of the schematic. Should be easy to figure out. ( dont need focus voltage) Be sure the kine bias is not to high. It may be a switch. You should be able to turn the brightness anywhere from total black to normal without any retrace lines. Another test put all G-2 ( screen) down & all other controls on normal. No signal needed. Turn up one G-2 at a time, should turn that color brightly. If the all come up you can grey scale it by eye. 73 Zeno |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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...
Last edited by andy; 11-20-2021 at 03:45 PM. |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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at this point i dont know what else to look for as far as a problem in the hv regulator circuit as there is not much at all to this circuit to begin with. the focus voltage is ok along with all the other voltages comparing to the sams.
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Audiokarma |
#11
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...
Last edited by andy; 11-20-2021 at 03:45 PM. |
#12
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the 0.2 is the bright up and hv adjust pot clockwise all the way and this is with the bias pot counterclock wise, and it was not blooming during that test.
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#13
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so if the beam current is to high or to low would this effect the hv in a negative way by keeping the hv low or not regulating at all ? if that were the case then this may be the ticket i have been looking for to fix this set then where to look for a problem or check beam current or the reason for it and fix it.
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#14
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If the Beam Current Limiter isnt working--or mis-adjusted, that would upset the EHT Regulation....
The (assume shunt-reg) can only regulate so far, and if the beam-current goes above a certain level, the regulator will be effectively cut off completely and no regulation can occur. The EHT will then be lower than it should be, and ballooning pictures/de-focussing will happen.... I would recommend you set up the drives, grey-scale, any extra screen or drive adjustments or voltages, the BCL and the EHT Regulator to the service-manual settings, then try again.... --If no good, doing the set-up procedure should indicate where the fault lies, maybe check the shunt reg, the EHT Rectifier and the Flyback Overwind for problems |
#15
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this has all been done already several times voltages , ect are good it just makes no sense i posted the reg current findings above.
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Audiokarma |
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