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  #31  
Old 12-30-2009, 01:33 PM
peverett peverett is offline
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The Hoffman company is still in business as Hoffman Video Systems in LA. They did make it as far east as Texas as I have several of their B&W sets. I heard that they had a plant in St. Louis MO. at one time.

I use a 25 watt iron on PC boards. This seems to work well does not damage the board. The only time I have had to use a soldier gun near the boards is to disconnect soldiered chassis ground connections as used in the Philco Seventeener, etc.
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  #32  
Old 12-30-2009, 05:32 PM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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That is the date the set was made, it's stamped on the plastic High Voltage cover that someone has hacked to bits to install a glass tube.

the 21AXP4 is a metal cone tube, hence the plastic cover.
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  #33  
Old 12-31-2009, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
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21AXP4

Now Eric..............

Charles
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  #34  
Old 01-01-2010, 08:14 AM
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The chassis is cleaned and ready for restoration. I could of done more but when a wire broke off the volume control by barely touching it,I'm calling it quits. I have pictures I'm uploading soon.

Chassis overview:


Another view:


PC Board close up:


Another view:


Under chassis:


Hack wire job:


Another hack:


Transformer or Electrolytic Leaking:


Uhhhhhhhh....

Last edited by Cruiseomatic; 01-01-2010 at 08:27 AM.
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  #35  
Old 01-01-2010, 10:42 AM
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What a great job at cleaning!!!! I know how much work that is, and especially if that one had the heavy waxy greasy coating on the PC boards.

Charles
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  #36  
Old 01-01-2010, 11:58 AM
Ralph S Ralph S is offline
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There is no doubt in my mind that this is the CTC-5U (deluxe chassis) designed and manufactured by RCA. The boards are the same, the wire runs are the same, the fuse locations are the same, the HV cage and control locations are the same and the date stamp on the plastic CRT shroud is identical in style and ink "slop" to my CTC-5U. In fact, the two chassis were made within a few weeks of each other! Hoffman obviously bought the naked guts from RCA and packaged them in their own cabinet. This set should be a beauty when its been recapped and brought up to snuff!
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  #37  
Old 01-01-2010, 12:44 PM
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You did an excellent job on that! Those boards are sucky to clean. The dark spots on the bottom of the board is "tube scorch" Be really careful when removing or installing tubes in those sockets as the board can crack. It's best to squirt a small amount of deoxit under the tube to loosen it up if it's tight in a socket on a burned board. The tube wiggles right out with no stress on the brittle parts. You have a great set, I look forward to seeing it work.
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  #38  
Old 01-01-2010, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kx250rider View Post
Now Eric..............

Charles
Doh!! I meant 21AXP22 of course.
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  #39  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:35 PM
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Just shy of using 300 Q-tips,Half a bottle of simple green,lot of scrub time,4 days of work,no free time,one really mad wife, But I got it done. Like I said,I could of done more cleaning but when that wire broke I called it good. It took alot of Folgers coffee last night to finish it. On those PC boards,I found that no matter how much you scrub and wipe them, You still get those "streak" marks on them. Ah well. The cleaning is done. Now its time to get her back to her like new/original working condition.
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  #40  
Old 01-02-2010, 01:18 AM
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Got the screen surround cleaned REAL good.
However, I have some residue coming off it.

Whole thing:


Close up:


Oxidation?








And this is the flyback on my Packard Bell, Could this one be dying on me?



I found the source of my crackling,
The HV anode to the CRT in the HV cage has a crack in the insulation and is grounding to the cage.

If you look at the right side where there is no rust that is where I'm getting the electrical show.....It is such high voltage,I had it on and went to get a picture, Hit the shutter button on the camera, Friggin thing literally jumped up and bit me and grounded through the camera!




I'm taking both the Hoffman and PB chassis to my guy tomorrow for a full restoration and/or touch-ups depending on what they need. The Hoffman cabinet is getting done either this week or next week, If I can afford it.

I'm getting them there slowly but surely.
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  #41  
Old 01-02-2010, 02:48 AM
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The anode is in the tube, the wire with the suction cup on the end is the HV lead. I can't quite tell from that picture, but I have to wonder if the insulating sleeve used to go though the cage opening and has slipped down from where it's supposed to be.
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  #42  
Old 01-02-2010, 09:35 AM
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Good luck on getting it done. Be careful with that cabinet, it has a printed finish on it. Stripping it would be a big no-no. I think touching it up and matching the color is about all that can be done with these types of "finishes". I have a CTC9 Anniversary model that has a finish almost the same color as yours and I have to hide all it's blemishes. I'm practicing my theories on non-important stuff first.
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  #43  
Old 01-02-2010, 10:02 AM
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...

Last edited by Cruiseomatic; 01-03-2010 at 03:16 PM.
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  #44  
Old 01-03-2010, 03:16 PM
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Cabinet is done.

Got the cabinet as good as I can get it right now. Its not perfect but I think it will please someone on here. I have some pictures of it. I think it looks good.

What has me worried is that screen surround has residue coming off like auto paint does when it gets old and begins to oxidize when you apply a rubbing compound or something. Edit;Well when I moved it more paint came off now its fading badly and went from gray before water hit it to light gray with white mixed in. The actual white in the middle needs work too.
I thought about masking areas off and re-painting them to original colors, If only I knew what they we're. Such as what shade white or gray they used. Other then that the cabinet looks pretty good.








Let me know what ya'll think.

Last edited by Cruiseomatic; 01-03-2010 at 04:07 PM.
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  #45  
Old 01-03-2010, 03:36 PM
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It looks great! Did you try the OxyClean on the speaker cloth? It looks brighter and cleaner. Good work!
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