My 630

[Geist]

Hi All;
Yea, Chris, That has and is a concern of mine.. I guess I was happy that I was able to unsolder everything and have only one broken tab.. And my other concern is that either I might not get it wired correctly or loose a wire or two.. I guess that is part of the trade off, You cut them off on the top and leave the wiring or take them out and hope that the re-wiring is OK..
THANK YOU Marty

[Geist]

Hi All;
Earlier today, I finished wiring ALL the Electrolytic caps up, (the last 6 wires), I have been doing them a little at a time, and as I have had the time and the energy, since being sick and just finished checking the Electrolytics with an ohm meter for correct connections, not for value..
I have two resistors to put in (R186A, 93 ohms and R240, 12 ohms), before I can hook it up to the lightbulb and Variac, and see what the voltages look like.. I am trying to be extra cautious with both the bulb and the variac..
THANK YOU Marty

[Geist]

Hi All;
I have put in the two Resistors, And with both a Bulb and Variac, I have tried the unit.. The Output from the Transformer is fine, but I get really Low voltage, DC out.. From the Resistor Divider, So, I have Checked the voltage on the Rectifier tubes, still low.. Filaments show 3.4 Volts, after taking the Bulb out it was up to 4.7 volts.. So, next, I will Dis-connect the wire from pin 8 and see what the Rectifiers put out by themselves, If it is still Low, then I know it is my Tubes.. And not Bad load, somewhere else.. But, If it is Higher, then, something in the Cap or Load or the diviver section then something is most likely wired wrong..
THANK YOU Marty

[Geist]

Hi All;
At 60 volts input and with the Bulb in place, I get 160 volts Dc Output on pin 8 of the Rectifier.. I have only one Rectifier tube in Place.. I will test each Rectifier individually.. This Proves that something is Bad, Somewhere down the line, from the Rectifier..
THANK YOU Marty

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by Geist

Hi All;
I have put in the two Resistors, And with both a Bulb and Variac, I have tried the unit.. The Output from the Transformer is fine, but I get really Low voltage, DC out.. From the Resistor Divider, So, I have Checked the voltage on the Rectifier tubes, still low.. Filaments show 3.4 Volts, after taking the Bulb out it was up to 4.7 volts..

With the Bulb out and full line voltage on the primary, what voltage are you seeing on the 6.3V heater supply? Is it signifigantly plus or minus a nominal 6.3 VAC?

...So, next, I will Dis-connect the wire from pin 8 and see what the Rectifiers put out by themselves,

Leave the first filter cap in-circuit so your meter will see pure DC. Or else it will read the averaged-out value of the supply (ie., it will read low). This is assuming you're using an analog meter. A digital meter will go nuts on unfiltered ripple voltage.

If it is still Low, then I know it is my Tubes.. And not Bad load, somewhere else.. But, If it is Higher, then, something in the Cap or Load or the diviver section then something is most likely wired wrong..
THANK YOU Marty

With no load, it will probably read signifigantly higher than nominal. But be sure the first filter cap is rated for the higher voltage.
As an alternative to leaving the first filter cap in-circuit, you could jumper in a cap temporarily. Anywhere upward 10 mf or so would be plenty (with adequate voltage rating).

[mikeh]

Marty,
Check the pins on the crt I tested it before I dropped the chassis off to you and the crt showed good emission. I hope it didn't lose vacuum, maybe the pins on the crt have intermittent connection. I enjoy following your progress on the tv.
Mike

[bandersen]

I've been following along with your progress and I don't recall any mention of replacing the paper caps. Are you running it on the originals ?

[Geist]

Hi All;
Bandersen, Yes, as that is the next big expense, I knew it might have some that were bad, but, I have always brought it up with the Variac.. And so far they seem to be ok.. I know that the problem with Video section might be the caps.. I just Re-looked at the schematic and If either is shorted there could be a path to ground.. And of course cap leakage..
THANK YOU Marty

[old_coot88]

I was goin' on the assumption you had replaced the caps. For the present issue with the video, at bare minimum you should change the grid coupling caps C138, C140, C141 and C142. They're all .05 (or .047).

[Geist]

Hi All;
No, I had always said electrolytics, couldn't aford to do both at the same time.. That is the next thing to do, I need to make a list of what I need and find them.. Not sure if Mouser or Digikey or Allied.. Will need to compare prices.. Does anyone have any suggestions as to who has the bast quality and prices ??
THANK YOU Marty

[Zenith6S321]

I measured all of my 630TS paper caps for value and leakage current. Out of 35 paper caps I only found 4 with no leakage current and also within 50% of their marked value. Only one had no leakage and close to its marked value. So yeah, you REALLY want to replace all the paper caps!

Dave

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by Geist

Hi All;
No, I had always said electrolytics, couldn't aford to do both at the same time.. That is the next thing to do, I need to make a list of what I need and find them.. Not sure if Mouser or Digikey or Allied.. Will need to compare prices.. Does anyone have any suggestions as to who has the bast quality and prices ??
THANK YOU Marty

Those three vendors are fine in general, but have a limited selection of axial film capacitors and they are on the expensive side. Just Radios is a popular choice for inexpensive axial caps.

Here's a quick check I did for Axial 0.047 @ 630v (one of the most used values)

Just Radio - $0.46
Allied - $0.48
Mouser - $0.79
Digi-Key - $2.02

That's assuming you want to use axial and not something like radial Sprague orange drops.

[bandersen]

I didn't get mica caps, just replacements for the paper. Mica caps are far more reliable than paper. I think Ive only replaced three or four so far in TVs. I'll check them only if I have problems after replacing all the other caps.

[bandersen]

Before you place that order keep in mind that Just Radios doesn't have Sprague "orange drops", they have "orange dips". Not the same thing at all Also, those "dips" are radial and not so easy to use as the long lead length "Tubular Axials".

Here's a picture from left to right - Sprague orange drop, orange dip, generic yellow poly axial and the more expensive name brand (Mallory) caps Mouser sells.

[old_coot88]

Still curious as to whut shorted and took out those two resistors.