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#16
05-02-2011, 07:35 PM
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The flyback might be quieter because it's not putting out any voltage. Check your work. Believe me, I'm not doubting your ability, but I still hook up stuff wrong sometimes and I've been doing this for years. Just did it on the last one I did. Also check the tubes in the HV cage, 1B3, etc. Make sure nothing is shorting and trace the schematic on each cap you changed to make sure it went to the same spot the old one went to. Have fun, this is what it's all about.
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#17
05-03-2011, 05:30 PM
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All good things come to those who wait!!!
Spent some time looking over my work, going from solder point to solder point and making sure nothing was shorted, not soldered, etc. I also refered to my photographs to check polarity on the three electrolytics that I replaced. All of my checks turned up nothing, all looked good. What could it possibly be? I decided to give it power again and have a good look around and visibly check the tubes. I fired the set up and confirmed that all the tubes lit up. They lit up like a warm fire on a cold night. All of a sudden what do I see?  Wait for the set to warm up of course! I forgot watching television as a child required turning the set on, going to the kitchen to get a bowl of cereal, and then returning to your Saturday morning cartoons. Now I wait for my next batch of caps with a feeling of satisfaction that, lack of visible progress not withstanding, at least I'm not moving backwards. Last edited by vts1134; 05-03-2011 at 06:59 PM.
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#18
05-03-2011, 07:00 PM
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A raster, yay. The bright horizontal line is the classic sign of issues in the vertical circuits. It may be cured after you finish replacing capacitors.
Don't play it long in this condition, lest it make a permanent line in the picture tube. Phil Nelson
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#19
05-08-2011, 05:39 PM
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I set to task today and replaced the multi-stage can capacitors with new individual axial lead capacitors.
Cans I replaced.  It was a bugger trying to find room for all of the new leads, but I got all of them in without any shorts. After picture with the 7 new individual caps.  I have not yet plugged it in because I do not have a variac here at the moment. I don't know if that makes a difference now that I have replaced the capacitors but I wanted to ask all of you. Should I wait until I have a variac to fire it up, or should I fire her up all at once? I await the councils decision.  On a related note does any one have advice on procuring a variac? Specs, things to look for, price range, etc...?
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#20
05-08-2011, 06:19 PM
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I would use the variac. If you hit the caps with full B+, you risk damage. I had that happen once, the caps all hot really hot even though they were 'new'.
__________________
Evolution... 
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#21
05-08-2011, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
You can do without one, a lot of people use what's called the "dim bulb" (no sense repeating what's in a lot of other threads/sites - a quick search will net you the details) method to protect their sets when they fire them up; it gives a nice visual indication very quickly if there is a short, and is essentially a lightbulb-based voltage divider/current limiter. Or, you can try borrowing one... there are plenty in many university physics labs and if you're friendly with the staff they might let you borrow one for a bit. I borrowed mine when I did my Fleetwood set. Edit: Note that I meant you can use other protections instead of a variac, not that you can just fire it up without any safety!!
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#22
05-08-2011, 06:47 PM
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"If you anticipate doing more work on tube sets in the future, it's certainly a worthwhile investment"
Hehe, I think that ship is sailed. I'm in pretty deep already. I have a set in my basement ready for round two, and I'm constantly on the lookout for rounds 3-26.
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#23
05-08-2011, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
 However, I do imagine there must be people that do "Just One™" because it was their grandfathers or whatever and has particularly special value to them, but they have no interest in other sets.(sadly, I have neither a lot of space, nor does anything overly interesting ever pop up in my area. I only got my fleetwood because the previous owners left it in the hayloft of our barn.) Sure, there's the odd AA5 that some idiot wants $200 for, but given my limited space (look at my nickname and if you need a better hint, my website, then take a guess with what it's filled...) and already having a tube radio, I _really_ want to do a tube-based TV set. Last edited by VintagePC; 05-08-2011 at 07:18 PM.
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#24
05-08-2011, 07:18 PM
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It helps avoid shorts if you place stripped off wire insulation on the bare cap leads. "Spaghetti" they call it. You can make your own from scrap wire of large enough gauge (old house wire or power cord) or even use coffee stirrers (very small straws).
 The "dim bulb"For a quick substitute for a variac, wire up two outlets in series. One outlet plug in a lamp that has say a 100W light bulb, and the other plug is for the TV under repair.
__________________
Last edited by wa2ise; 05-08-2011 at 07:22 PM.
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#25
05-08-2011, 08:11 PM
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No gratification tonight it is. I'll bring a variac home tomorrow, and look to purchase one soon. I had thought about using shrink tubing on the leads on the caps, thanks for the tip wa2ise. I hear you on the no space VintagePC, I live in a sub 900sq foot one room loft with my wife. She has been really suportive of my new obsession, there is no hiding anything when you have no walls.
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#26
05-09-2011, 12:38 AM
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I don't think it's a big priority to rush out and spend a bunch on a variac for your first restoration project. If your main concern is not frying your TV, a cheap dim bulb tester actually provides more protection. If your TV has a dead short, the bulb simply lights up, and no harm is done. With an un-metered variac, you can still burn up a power transformer while gradually increasing the voltage, a fact that I learned to my dismay some years ago. A metered variac lets you monitor current use while you increase voltage, of course.
Phil Nelson
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#27
05-09-2011, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
 Why not make a wall of vintage TVs? Two birds with one stone
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#29
05-09-2011, 05:00 PM
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Update.
Brought home a variac and fired her up... No vertical deflection. I've now replaced all of the paper, multi stage cans, and electrolytics in the chassis (as far as I know). Time to move on to other trouble shooting. Any suggestions on where to start/where not to start?
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#30
05-09-2011, 05:24 PM
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The easiest place to start is with the vertical deflection coils (the ones on the neck of the CRT) - check them for continuity with a multimeter. If they're good, then I'd start looking for open or shorted resistors. A complete lack of deflection means a total failure somewhere...
Someone with a service manual might be able to point you in a more specific direction, but this is usually a good start for anything of this age. The carbon resistors tend to go high when exposed to a lot of moisture and cause all sorts of problems.
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