#61
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WOW! That looks great! I never even thought of re-plating stuff like that, I'll have to try it, I have more than a few things that could use it.
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My TV page and YouTube channel Kyocera R-661, Yamaha RX-V2200 National Panasonic SA-5800 Sansui 1000a, 1000, SAX-200, 5050, 9090DB, 881, SR-636, SC-3000, AT-20 Pioneer SX-939, ER-420, SM-B201 Motorola SK77W-2Z tube console McIntosh MC2205, C26 |
#62
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I have replated small brass items in the past with good results. I have had some plastic knobs (that were originally chrome/silver) replated with good results. These were from a small GE tv.
If you want to replate plastic, check with the people who do automobile restorations. They can do this or point you to someone who can. |
#63
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I'm currently tearing apart and reconfiguring my workshop. Should be back to working on this set soon.... Last edited by bandersen; 09-25-2009 at 01:24 AM. |
#64
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Cool photo! John
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#65
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Updated workshop
I'm finally back in action! It was painful, but I took everything out of my workshop, installed some new shelves and selectively put equipment back in. That includes my new Hickok 615 sweep/marker gen. and EICO 315 signal gen. Too bad the Tek 465 is soo deep - it doesn't fit well on a shelf.
Finding studs in 130+ year old lathe & plaster walls is not fun Especially when one isn't where it should be! I really hope I don't hear a horrible crash as shelves rip out from the walls This stuff is heavy! Bakelite still looks good Rust hasn't returned Last edited by bandersen; 10-09-2009 at 11:33 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#66
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Work resumes
The volume/focus control has felt wrong since I got this set. Now I know why. The rear volume pot&switch had separated from the wirewound focus. Luckily, all it took was threading the tabs through the slots and bending them over again. I'm really happy about that as it's a hard control to find.
My other set with this chassis has a horrible repair job where there's only a volume pot up front and the focus is now a separate control in the back where a new hole was drilled If anyone has a combo 1500 wirewound (focus) + 250K (volume) + AC switch control they don't need, I'll take it of your hands I've found one blown cap so far. Last edited by bandersen; 10-15-2009 at 02:47 AM. |
#67
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flyback question
The flyback from my 30A1 is arcing, but I know the whereabouts of an old 20X122 nearby. Would the flyback be the same for this set?
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#68
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Quote:
20X122 (20X1 chassis) uses Admiral part #79C28-2 However, the Thordarson substitute is the same for both - FLY-1. I checked my Admiral schematics and the listed resistance values for the two flybacks are within about 10%. So, they're not identical but close. I'd hazard a guess that it would work OK. Please tell me you're not going to trash a nice 20X122 just for it's flyback... |
#69
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Over the last year I've tried Glayzit and various oils and waxes. They all faded over time
Also, note the weird discolored area. I think that's from years of candles. I found traces of fragrant wax on the cabinet when I got it. Since I had my wet sanding supplies out for another project, I decided to give it shot. I'm using 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000 grits. It's looking better already. I probably could have gotten more scratches out if I had been more aggressive, but I was concerned about damaging the hard outer surface. Next, I buffed it with Novus #2 and Simichrome metal polish. Much better The stain is just about gone too. Now I just need to do the rest of the cabinet Last edited by bandersen; 08-21-2010 at 10:25 PM. |
#70
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Wow, you do such great work on those bakelite cabinets! It makes me wish I had more bakelite around here to polish. I've been told my Zenith H724 is actually plastic, but it could use a good shining either way. Man... looking back on those pictures at the beginning of your thread of that other 20X122 hurt my feelings! It reminds me of the bakelite record player I had arrive in the same condition from a seller on Ebay who packed it in nothing but newspaper and an oversized box...
On another note, I'm sort of debating on what route to go on my Zenith tv's control panel and I noticed you used the Caswell's brass plating stuff. I haven't heard much discussion about how to restore those plated metal parts and it made me wonder if that would be a practical approach on something as large as a control panel. Looking at my panel itself, it looks like it was a nice polished brass color on the front, but inside the pencil box door it's more rough as if it were overspray. That led me to think they used some sort of spray-on technique at the factory. |
Audiokarma |
#71
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Thanks. I try not to think about that smashed 20X122. Sanding and buffing the top was easy and the sides should be too. It's the front I'm not so sure about. Maybe I should get one of those buffing wheel attachments for a drill and some buffing compounds
The item biggest I've tried to plate is the brass bezel on a Philco Mystery Control - about 6" in diameter. It came out a little uneven so I think that's pushing the limit of the Caswell kit. |
#72
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Getting back to your main chassis metal, and as what to do with it. I just very lightly, and unevenly, dust a coat of rust-o-leum aluminum spray paint over the repaired areas. I mean dust, not cover. It gives the impression of cad plating, and stops further corrosion. Sometimes I tone it down with a cotton ball moistened in lacquer thinner, dabbing at the paint to age, dull, or blotch it, so it blends with the rest of the chassis. The idea is not to make it perfect. It works, and easy to undo and try again.
Last edited by M3-SRT8; 08-23-2010 at 01:58 PM. |
#73
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Quote:
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#74
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I made a New Year's resolution to wrap up unfinished projects before starting any new ones. So after a long hiatus, I'm finally going to finish this set!
Here's the rusty power transformer. I used a wire brush to remove most of it. Then, I brushed some satin Rustoleum black enamel on the sides and sprayed the top with gloss engine enamel. Last edited by bandersen; 01-15-2012 at 03:59 PM. Reason: fixed typo |
#75
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Quote:
Looking forward to this continuation now that your 26R12 is done... |
Audiokarma |
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