#16
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I'll try to get it in the house tomorrow and check it out.
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#17
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CTC17, how's that re-waxed flyback doing? I may try it with one from my 16
__________________
"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee |
#18
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Its still working fine. I put that set aside while I'm getting a 16 dialed in. Caps and alignment mostly.
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#19
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Took it apart and brought it in the house.
I took this opportunity to clean off the dirt from the CRT and the metal shield, hosed it off in the front yard with a little dish soap to loosen the crud.The Tube is a 21FBP22, a 21FJP22 without a bonded safety glass. The screen is a darker greenish color than the CYP22 so I'm assuming it uses the later Phosphors? The chassis is very clean. The tuner uses a NuVistor tube. Flyback looks good and I know it works. The cabinet needs some work. Hopefully this can be replaced with the parts from the set I'm getting from Dan. Last edited by Eric H; 01-08-2012 at 01:59 PM. |
#20
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Eric,
How lucky...your HV works. I had one of those EXACT sets long ago. It is a CTC11 clone totally. It belonged to a neighbor-relative and when it finally quit in 1979, I was happy to take it! The 6DQ5 red-plated. The horiz. drive to the grid was OK, so I assumed it was the flyback. But when I inserted a drive signal from the B&K analyst at the plate cap, it generated about 16 kV at the 2nd anode. It would not work any other way. I tried replacing everything but the Fly and gave up in extreme anguish. I will check my bins if I have the channel and other knobs. |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Yep, it's a sulphide tube.
__________________
Evolution... |
#22
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I've been working on the cabinet trying to get it looking nice.
Underneath all that cracked peeling Lacquer is some really nice wood. The legs and frame seem to be made of a hardwood, possibly Oak, the top and sides are Walnut or Mahogany I think. It's not solid wood, the sides are just paneling and the top is only a little thicker but it's real Veneer and it looks super after stripping it. I took it all apart trying to figure out how to get the grille cloth off, only to find out it's just stapled in place. |
#23
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...
Last edited by 6GH8cowboy; 01-12-2012 at 07:30 AM. |
#24
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Very nice progress!
__________________
Chris Quote from another forum: "(Antique TV collecting) always seemed to me to be a fringe hobby that only weirdos did." |
#25
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wow amazing work! you still comming to get the parts set this Sat?
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Audiokarma |
#26
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What did you use to remove that old finish? Looks like it cleaned up really nice!
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#27
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Would next weekend work, or Monday, I'm off on Monday and also Tomorrow. |
#28
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I was experimenting with the legs today, tried a couple different Toners. The Medium Brown is nice but probably too light, the Van Dyke Brown was a little too dark and hard to apply without getting it really dark. I think maybe I need a Dark Walnut. I bought eight cans of Mohawk Toners at the Thrift a couple weekends ago, most are full. I got three cans of Fruitwood Brown, I have no idea what that looks like but if it's appropriate I'll use it since it only cost me $2 a can. I only really need to tone the hardwood trim, it really light colored and too hard to take stain, the top and sides are darker and I can probably stain them to the right color. this set is just plain Brown, not Reddish Brown like many of the 1940's sets I have some Lacquer Tints I bought for a Philco, I could do a Heywood Wakefield style Yellow finish. Maybe you guys can help me pick a Grille Cloth, the original has a diamond pattern and some gold thread, I was thinking Grille Cloth.com's pattern number 78 might look nice with a Walnut cabinet. http://www.grillecloth.com/grillcloth/gallery.php Here's the original, the back side doesn't look all that much darker than this. Last edited by Eric H; 01-12-2012 at 11:07 PM. |
#29
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Go to the auction, it can sit here. I'm gone monday. Weekday traffic is cruel Anyway |
#30
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Hmmmm California? Yup. I do understand. "You will now be returned to your regularly scheduled broadcast..." |
Audiokarma |
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