Motorola 19CK1

[John Folsom]

And I would just like to add that I intended no criticism of Harry. I have purchased several TVs from him, and was pleased with each transaction Harry is probably more responsible than anyone else for saving more TVs and seeing them into the hands of collectors who appreciate them. And it is only reasonable that Harry sell them for whatever the market will bear.

Too bad about the possibly bad CRT, 19VP22s may be harder to find than 15GP22s!

[kvflyer]

Glad to see that we all seem to feel the same way. Let the market decide the price of course...

[Steve McVoy]

I also have the highest regard for Harry. He has always been honest and straightforward with the sets he sells.

[Einar72]

I, too, am a satisfied, repeat customer of Harry's! Keep selling 'em, Harry!

[reeferman]

If you have no resistance on the filament pins try hitting them (not literally) with some solder. That was a common occurrence.
Phil

[hposter]

Thanks for the good words from all! In case you can't see it online, I am blushing

Thanks to Steve and Phil for the suggestions..I will check to be sure the wires are not loose in the CRT socket.

I'll keep you posted, in case of any breakthroughs...

[zenithfan1]

Fingers are crossed! Good luck Harry! I sure hope that 19VP22 still has life in it.

If I had the money, I'd bid in a heartbeat. I saw the smaller version with legs at an antique store when I was about 12, my mom had to drag me outta there. I begged for it "Mom it's only 250 dollars" She rolled her eyes and said "we can't afford that right now". I told her what these are worth now and she about had a heart attack. She says "how did you know these were so special back then" I said, I don't know, it just had that "look" to it. I told her back then it must be one of the first color tvs.

[N2IXK]

According to the CBS/Hytron datasheet on the 19VP22, the heater rating is 6.3V/1.8A, which to my thinking suggests a parallel connection of 3 x 6.3V/600mA heaters (a common value), rather than 3 x 2.1V sections in series.

With 3 sections in parallel, a completely open heater is much less likely. An oxidized solder joint inside one of the heater pins is the usual culprit when all 3 guns refuse to light. Back in the day, many shops had a special crimping tool to make this type of repair. Lacking one of these, a vacuum desoldering tool to remove the old solder, followed by the careful resoldering of the pins with fresh solder will usually fix things.

[John Folsom]

The filaments for the 3 guns in all of the roundie color CRTs were in parallel. Not sure about those new-fangled rectangular color CRTs.

[Steve McVoy]

The most likely cause of filament failure in this tube is air. When you apply AC to the filaments if the tube is a leaker all three filaments will burn out.

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by N2IXK

According to the CBS/Hytron datasheet on the 19VP22, the heater rating is 6.3V/1.8A, which to my thinking suggests a parallel connection of 3 x 6.3V/600mA heaters (a common value), rather than 3 x 2.1V sections in series.

With 3 sections in parallel, a completely open heater is much less likely. An oxidized solder joint inside one of the heater pins is the usual culprit when all 3 guns refuse to light. Back in the day, many shops had a special crimping tool to make this type of repair. Lacking one of these, a vacuum desoldering tool to remove the old solder, followed by the careful resoldering of the pins with fresh solder will usually fix things.

Wow - hang around here and you will always learn something new. The tube in my Zenith coffin measures open on the filaments. I tried reheating and soldering with no effect. However, comparing with the good tube in another console, I noticed tiny crimp marks on the filament pins!

It would be interesting to see what that tool looked like. Did they just crimp the pins, or also heat/solder them?

This is giving me the impetus to retry the soldering on the dead one.

[N2IXK]

Discussion of CRT pin repairs here, along with a link to an 1960 ad for a pin crimping tool:

http://antiqueradios.com/forums/view...p?f=3&t=155041

With the crimper, there was no need to solder. It just smashed the existing crystallized solder back into contact with the wire, apparently. You could probably do that much with a pair of pliers, but the crimper makes sure that the pin remains round enough to allow the socket to go back on...

[reeferman]

At the shop we had better luck soldering the pins. If you look at the end of the pin, most of the time you can see the wire. And most of the time the wire is sticking out jusssssst enough where you can scrape it with a knife to clean it off. Add a little solder and you are good to go.
I figured our crimper didn't work all of the time because it never cleaned/soldered the wire and pin. Just jammed them together.
Phil

[bgadow]

A retired TV repairman gave me a box of stuff that included a crimper; I'm glad he told me what it was because I never would have guessed it. I've used it on a tube or two but both proved to be truly dead. One trouble is that once you crimp, the only way to remove the socket would be to cut it off.

[Charlie]

Okay so who got the Motorola???