Mid-'60s Zenith Console Doesn't Turn On

[Jemascola]

I have a Zenith All-Channel console TV from the mid-60s (Model 8320, chassis 25MC36). It originally came from my grandma's house, but I got it almost two years ago when we cleared out her house to get it ready to sell.

Aside from some picture quality issues, it turned on fine until after I brought it home. The TV simply wouldn't turn on. The vacuum tubes didn't light up, nor did I hear any kind of hum from the TV. There were a few times I got it to turn on, but over the last year, I haven't had any luck.

My concern is that maybe something in the TV got damaged from being bumped around while transporting it home. Interestingly enough, though, I used to have a GE Porta-color that had the same exact problem. Has anyone else experienced this with these old tube TVs, and if so, what could be the problem?

Thanks in advance.

[mstaton]

bad cord, tripped circuit breaker, fuse, varistor, power switch. Try the simple things first.

[Jemascola]

Originally Posted by mstaton

bad cord, tripped circuit breaker, fuse, varistor, power switch. Try the simple things first.

I don't think I have a problem with my circuit breaker.

A bad power switch is a possibility. The power switch acted a little funny: the TV would be off in the "on" position, and vice versa. Still, since I knew this, I made a point to keep the switch in the position that worked (and kept the TV unplugged when not in use), but I still developed this problem. The TV would work one minute, I'd unplug it - leaving the switch completely untouched - I'd plug it back in later, and nothing would happen.

A bad cord is definitely a possibility. It's not really frayed, but it is a bit twisted in some places.

I don't know anything about varsitors, sadly :P

I have some pictures of the power cord and the inside of the console if it helps. One thing in particular that I found interesting was a little plastic cap that was rolling around inside (the last picture).

[marty59]

Do you have a Multi-meter? You need to verify the primary side. Read across the A/C input plug on the back of the chassis. With the switch on, you should see a small resistance about a couple of Ohms. I'd bet something is open. The primary side is easy to check for continuity. That model chassis may have two terminal pins on the topside where the switch connects. Maybe some wires came loose in transport. Now would be a good time to look and verify that on/off switch too!

[mstaton]

I have an Admiral that the switch was working and then smoke started ti billow out along with some arcing. The power switch just gave out. After replacement, no more issues. Jump the on/off switch and try that.

[DaveWM]

where in the SE are you?

[Jemascola]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

where in the SE are you?

Fayetteville, GA - near Atlanta.

[DaveWM]

ok a bit too far, for me I do get up to Columbus GA now and then, but that is still a good 60 miles at least IIRC.

I agree its prob a switch/breaker or open thermistor. All easy fixes, but there maybe a reason for the failure, which would be shorted filter caps. Hopefully someone here is a bit closer can get with you and check it out. It could be a very siimple problem (like the cord). Zeniths were the best built sets and the one you have is built like a tank.

actually the fact that the filaments are not lighting up means it pretty much has to be the switch or plug. a simple resistance reading of the plug would confirm its open. you could then manipulate the plug (the prongs and the connection at the set) and also jump the switch with a simple jumper from radio shack (just a wire and some clips). all unpluged of course you just want to see if you can get conitinuity across the primary of the transformer. the breaker and the thermistor are on the secondary not associated with the filament windings so I am pretty sure its got to be the switch

[Jemascola]

Thank you everyone for the information I will have to check the cord/plug to see if there's a problem with it.