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  #16  
Old 05-04-2016, 04:41 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Thanks guys. Here we go.
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2016, 04:42 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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2..
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2016, 04:43 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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  #19  
Old 05-04-2016, 04:45 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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PS. Not to distract from my main problem but another question if I may. I run my sets with an rf modulator so I can watch DVDs or VHS. How come sometimes I get this on the screen? Whenever it appears I change the disc and then it disappears. In other words certain dvds make that appear certain dvds it doesn't. When it appears it fades in and out.
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  #20  
Old 05-04-2016, 05:40 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
PS. Not to distract from my main problem but another question if I may. I run my sets with an rf modulator so I can watch DVDs or VHS. How come sometimes I get this on the screen? Whenever it appears I change the disc and then it disappears. In other words certain dvds make that appear certain dvds it doesn't. When it appears it fades in and out.
Those stripes are caused by a form of copy protection found on some tapes and DVDs, etc. called macrovision. Search 'macrovision' on VK and you will find plenty of threads on how to remove it.
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  #21  
Old 05-05-2016, 05:42 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Those stripes are caused by a form of copy protection found on some tapes and DVDs, etc. called macrovision. Search 'macrovision' on VK and you will find plenty of threads on how to remove it.
OK great. Thanks.

Awaiting help for the main issue. The one local TV repairman is no longer interested so I will be going this alone. Please anyone recommend some tools and post some instructions that a lay person could understand. I am not afraid of getting shocked, lol, I will give this a try! Bought lots of books too, should be arriving soon. I have 5 vintage T.V. sets and getting 1 more, so I am desperate to learn something!
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  #22  
Old 05-08-2016, 03:14 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Guys? Lol I thought someone was going to tell me what to do! I am ready to try to fix this problem but have no clue where to begin!
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  #23  
Old 05-08-2016, 11:54 PM
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This tells about replacing capacitors. http://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm

Replace the lytics and the tubular caps that are not orange drops. Clean the area around (and) the HV connector ON the CRT as well as the bottom cup for the HV rectifier tube.

The basics have been explained to death on many forums and sites....It can become monotonous explaining basics like capacitor replacement over and over to newbies who could easily search existent articles and find all they ever wanted to know and then some...
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  #24  
Old 05-09-2016, 09:31 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
This tells about replacing capacitors. http://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm

Replace the lytics and the tubular caps that are not orange drops. Clean the area around (and) the HV connector ON the CRT as well as the bottom cup for the HV rectifier tube.

The basics have been explained to death on many forums and sites....It can become monotonous explaining basics like capacitor replacement over and over to newbies who could easily search existent articles and find all they ever wanted to know and then some...
I see. Well, I was asked to take more pictures so I just thought I was going to get some personalized pointers or instructions. I don't mind searching and going it alone it's just that I don't always know what to search for as I am not up on the lingo and the names of different parts. It's the same way on a car website I am on. Anytime someone makes a thread, people just say search! Well what's the point of the forum then, lol? Presumably 90% or more of all problems have already been discussed and solved, they might as well compile the threads and just make a pdf troubleshooting book and sticky it. Anyway, thanks for that link and I did seem to find instructions on the filter can, so I guess I am good to go get started at least.

PS, all I really need is this guy in the pic!
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  #25  
Old 05-09-2016, 09:36 AM
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There are a few areas where this has been moused.
Find the chassis & model numbers first & post them.
Chassis # usually ink stamped on the rear of chassis
or sometimes on a tag.
Model number on back usually dead center between the
cord holders. They often fall off.

Next step is to clean the rust off ESPECIALLY on the
terminal strips. It is probably conductive & may be
the problem. Use small wire brush & a cleaner. Some one
else can recommend a modern cleaner.

Now it may work. The filter can does not look like its
leaked, all the crud near it is rust.

73 Zeno
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  #26  
Old 05-09-2016, 10:31 AM
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This has a 14B38 chassis, 1971 model year. While many of these sets work with very little restoration or recapping, this one was in a bad environment. Look on the deflection yoke. Maybe what happened to my RCA here happened to yours.

Based on your pictures, I would get a small brass wire brush t harbor freight (like a solvent brush) and bust off all that corrosion around the solder pots, above and below the chassis.
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  #27  
Old 05-09-2016, 10:52 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavGoodlin View Post
This has a 14B38 chassis, 1971 model year. While many of these sets work with very little restoration or recapping, this one was in a bad environment. Look on the deflection yoke. Maybe what happened to my RCA here happened to yours.

Based on your pictures, I would get a small brass wire brush t harbor freight (like a solvent brush) and bust off all that corrosion around the solder pots, above and below the chassis.
I'd like to strangle the E-b^Y seller that sold that set for that kind of money.
I know, that is a great set and a great performer, but that set will never be the same.
I see, that set must've been made after Zenith quit building B/W CRT's. It's made by Clinton, EIA 1240.
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  #28  
Old 05-09-2016, 01:46 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Thanks everyone.

OK so it seems the consensus is to brush. Will do. Maybe I can learn how to replace the capacitors based on the link above as well. It seems that is the 1st thing to do no matter what with any old set, right? OK, filter can is OK you say as well, OK.

Some questions:

Some say the TV was in a bad environment, like what a dank basement? Why will it never be the same even if some work is done? We live in the Northeast so the terrible weather seems to screw everything up.

Is it really from '71? I thought the knobs are more late '60's. I guess late '60's and early '70's are basically the same.

The last poster, I didn't really understand, are you referring the eBay seller who sold me this set or the man who wrote about the RCA? I paid 50 bucks, didn't seem like a big deal to take a chance for the price. The eBay listing is now down but here was the title of the ad:

"Zenith mid 60's 19" portable tv, w/rabbit ears repaired works great!"

Thanks again for the input, I shall try to get her working again, wish me luck!
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  #29  
Old 05-10-2016, 08:04 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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On the filter can it still may be bad. Usually when
they are going there is crud leaking out by the terminals etc.
Even when leaking it may still work OK but its not
long for this world.
As far as the e-bay ad goes there are 3 ways to "fix" a TV IMHO

1) just get it going quick & cheap
2) repair it to be reliable but cost effective
3) restore it.

The lines can be blurred. Yours is a #1, the rust should have
been dealt with.

73 Zeno
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  #30  
Old 05-10-2016, 12:11 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
On the filter can it still may be bad. Usually when
they are going there is crud leaking out by the terminals etc.
Even when leaking it may still work OK but its not
long for this world.
As far as the e-bay ad goes there are 3 ways to "fix" a TV IMHO

1) just get it going quick & cheap
2) repair it to be reliable but cost effective
3) restore it.

The lines can be blurred. Yours is a #1, the rust should have
been dealt with.

73 Zeno
I think it is a 0.

0.) adjust knobs till it shows a decent picture, do not remove back, and call it repaired...

I can't see any evidence of recent work on it in the pictures.
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