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  #31  
Old 01-13-2011, 08:36 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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wow that looks great!
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  #32  
Old 01-13-2011, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakaftr8 View Post
BTW, does anyone know how to remove the safety glass? It's quite dirty behind there..
Thanks!
That set is looking good!

As for the safety glass, you have to CAREFULLY pry the top and bottom gold trim off. The top pried straight down and bottom straight up. I like to protect the wood with blue painters tape but if you pry too hard the wood will get a dent, lay something flat under your screwdriver to spread out the pressure. The trim is also easy to distort so be careful and pry up small sections at a time until it comes loose, someone bent mine years ago but it still looks ok with only a few wavy spots. Once those pieces are removed, there will be four clips holding the glass, there are like small levers on them that you pull out. Pulling them will make the clip sort of bend in the middle but it's supposed to do that, if you look closely it will make sense how they come out. The cover of the sams has instructions too but they aren't very detailed.
I hope this helps, post a pic if you have any problems with it.
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  #33  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:20 PM
julianburke julianburke is offline
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Make sure you change the horiz drive capacitor to the 6DQ5 HO. They were problem prone when the sets were fairly new. When they go bad, 6DQ5 gets red hot and ruins.
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  #34  
Old 01-13-2011, 06:35 PM
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Thanks Julian, ill check it out.
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  #35  
Old 01-13-2011, 09:25 PM
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Your inrush current thermister probably melted off. Its some ware around the base of the 5U4 tube.
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  #36  
Old 01-13-2011, 09:25 PM
doogie812 doogie812 is offline
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70 ohm cold if I remember correctly.
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  #37  
Old 01-13-2011, 09:29 PM
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Your inrush current thermister probably melted off. Its some ware around the base of the 5U4 tube.

Umm, it's a CTC-9....


Mark, I didn't pry the bottom trim off mine. I just pulled the top one, then took the glass out by angling it forward and lifting it out. Saves the removal of the bottom strip, since it can be a PITA.
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  #38  
Old 01-13-2011, 11:55 PM
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Yes this is a pita!! But nice and clean now! Now attacking the convergence. I must say out of all the vintage sets I own this ones the hardest to dial in!
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  #39  
Old 01-14-2011, 03:41 AM
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Well I pretty much spent the night with playing with convergence coils, magnets and blue lateral. As well as purity rings. Looking good now but still not close enough. I'm trying to go for as well of a job as I gave my ctc-17 a year ago. That set in my case is perfect. This one is a lil pain but were getting close. Well as I was well into this project I noticed the vertical lin started slowly stretching out at the top. Most likely a cap going south for the winter.
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  #40  
Old 01-14-2011, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by freakaftr8 View Post
I noticed the vertical lin started slowly stretching out at the top. Most likely a cap going south for the winter.
All my round tube color sets do that, but I never figured out why. Maybe I'll dig into it this coming month, when I'm not so busy at work. You can see the lines start to get farther apart near the very top of the screen, but if I tweak the lin control to fix it, I come up short on height.
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  #41  
Old 01-14-2011, 10:35 AM
rcafan rcafan is offline
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Ctc9

The varister Is R193 ,orig part # is 107291. Moyer in PA has
original RCA part for about $4.00
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  #42  
Old 01-14-2011, 12:46 PM
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The varister Is R193 ,orig part # is 107291. Moyer in PA has
original RCA part for about $4.00
Yeppers.. Thats the one I put in there and ordered it from Moyers. One oddball thing is that I noticed upon a cold fire up, the tuner light slowly increases in brightness until fully lit. Thought that was interesting.

On the vertical lin issue, I have found that replacing the caps on the vertical output board and a resistor that likes to drift off the vert height pot or the lin pot if I recall usually solves that issue.

Which brings me to a new question.. Where is the vertical height/lin pots on a CTC-9? I dont mean to nound dumb, just didn't see them on the back of the set.
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  #43  
Old 01-14-2011, 08:58 PM
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On mine, they are 'inside' the front panel controls. The center of my vert hold control is vert lin, I think. You need a jewlers screwdriver to tweak them.
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  #44  
Old 01-16-2011, 01:17 AM
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Cool thanks miniman!
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  #45  
Old 01-16-2011, 03:58 AM
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Well I haven't tested tubes yet but I have done some more adjustments on the set tonight. What I have noticed is that the raster lacks the contrast it should have. When bright scenes come in it kind of blooms out of focus. I have a feeling that the 3a3 is prob a little weak as well as some others. The brightness is there it just doesn't seem right. Good greyscale although. The CYP CRT should put out some good illumination like the FJP right? I'm checking tubes tomorrow.
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