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  #16  
Old 12-22-2010, 10:57 PM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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Freakaftr8, if you send me a PM with your email address, I can email you the complete Sams. My library lets me download 'em for free.

Phil Nelson
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2010, 01:23 AM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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Well I swear pictures are coming!! I have camera issues at the moment. I did however pull back the chassis tonight and found the little inrush limiter fried off and laying on top of the video amp
Electolytic shorted maybe? All fuses check good.
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Last edited by freakaftr8; 12-23-2010 at 01:40 AM.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2010, 08:57 AM
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It's probably just old, and fell apart. Mouser should have a replacement.
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  #19  
Old 12-23-2010, 09:29 AM
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Actually think I found a close match in an old PC power supply. It's operating current is 5 amps.
And ohms at 2.5
I did a conversion and seems to me max inrush would be 67amps. I have to be doing something wrong in my calculation cause that's impossible.
Part number is 2R55A

Would this work?
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Last edited by freakaftr8; 12-23-2010 at 09:35 AM.
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  #20  
Old 12-23-2010, 09:57 AM
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think I used a CL-90 there.

opps, taking that back, prob need something that can take more current.

Last edited by DaveWM; 12-23-2010 at 10:00 AM.
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  #21  
Old 12-23-2010, 10:22 AM
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I have the RCA manual, and also the Sams if you like I can send them. Here's a picture of the RCA factory schematic, and a close-up of the power supply. I doubt it will show good enough detail on the main schematic, but hopefully the power supply will get you started.

That's such a great feeling to pull the back off a set and see near-virginity!!!! It's so the opposite of finding a couple of missing, tubes, and wires unhooked from the FBT, and a cluster of tubular electrolytics taped to a failed can, etc etc...

I think that set might have selenium rectifiers, but I might be off on that. The schematic looks like regular silicon diodes, but I'm not sure if there was a different symbol for seleniums back then. If it does, I'd bet they're leaking and need to be replaced with B+ diodes (and an adjusted value B+ resistor to compensate for the higher efficiency & higher raw B+ from the diodes vs. the seleniums). If they're leaking, they'd overload the B+ resistor and/or blow the a fuse.

Charles



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Last edited by kx250rider; 12-23-2010 at 10:36 AM.
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  #22  
Old 12-23-2010, 11:53 AM
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My CTC-9 has RCA 'tophat' diodes, those would be silicon.
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  #23  
Old 12-23-2010, 01:43 PM
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Yes my set has "tophat" silicons also. Looks like they are good too.
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  #24  
Old 12-25-2010, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Hauris View Post
I think this is an inrush current limiter in the primary of the power transformer going to the power line. If it opens up you will lose all power into the set.
Shawn, I remember the thermistor/current limiter was bad on the CTC-16 combo you sold to me. The wire had broken loose from one side of it. I ended up finding a "good spot" on it where I could resolder the wire (actually I think I did that on both sides), and it has been good since then. Maybe you can try a similar fix on this CTC-9.
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  #25  
Old 12-25-2010, 05:41 PM
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Red face

Hey Chris

Wish I could but this Puppy literally melted. Both sides are wasted and the disc itself is destroyed. It really went.

On another note I now have my camera issue fixed and will be posting up long awaited pics tomorrow. Sorry guys for the delay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisW6ATV View Post
Shawn, I remember the thermistor/current limiter was bad on the CTC-16 combo you sold to me. The wire had broken loose from one side of it. I ended up finding a "good spot" on it where I could resolder the wire (actually I think I did that on both sides), and it has been good since then. Maybe you can try a similar fix on this CTC-9.
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  #26  
Old 01-05-2011, 12:14 PM
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Well I ordered a thermistor from Moyers today. Did some research and found it to be an RCAFR291 or 107291. .49 ohm hot. When I get it im installing it and checking some esr readings on the power supply. Im wondering if I cad a can short to ground. As I remember the cans all felt cool to the touch except the first one closest to the back of the set. The bottom of that can felt mildly above room temperature. Think my best bet would be to recap the set while I got the chassis out, nd do some general cleaning. As I said before the set is extremely clean and hardly any signs of heavy use at all. But dust hinders the appearance. Also, luckfully it doesn't appear to be a smokers set either. I have a bunch of pics I am going to put up and a few of the melted down thermistor.
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  #27  
Old 01-05-2011, 12:54 PM
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if it has a power resistor on the lugs or sit near a big sand resistor that will make them warm as well.
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  #28  
Old 01-12-2011, 02:06 PM
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Weel I recieved the thermistor today. Keep your fingers crossed for me.
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  #29  
Old 01-13-2011, 02:02 AM
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Hey guys,
Well after cleaning the remnants out of the chassis from the old inrush limiter, I carefully removed the rest of the leads from the terminal strip and installed the new one.

Success! She is up and running once again!
Here are some pics and the present state in which she sits.



Some more of the chassis after the inrush limiter crumbled apart.
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC02767.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC02766.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC02765.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC02764.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC02763.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC02762.jpg
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/a...9/DSC02761.jpg
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  #30  
Old 01-13-2011, 02:04 AM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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BTW, does anyone know how to remove the safety glass? It's quite dirty behind there..
Thanks!
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