#16
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Hey John..
Well I did that and when I cranked the screen drives the only line i get is green. The blue screen is pretty much innaffective. Red is blurry |
#17
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You can only get one line? Screens and drives are two different things. You should have 3 screens, one for each color. There is only a green and a blue drive, because the red drive is run wide open by default.
Ok, If you start with the drives all the way up, and the screens all the way down, you can only get a green line by bringing the screens up? Even with the kine bias set all the way up? If so, that sounds like a weak tube..... but... don't give up yet if that's the case. The first thing to try when you get that crt tester, is to run the filament voltage a little high, maybe 8 volts or something, and let it cook a little while. The emission will probably come back. There could also be chassis problems causing it not to track, but the CRT tester should tell the story about the tube. John P.S. Maximum contrast (and thus brightness) is limited by the efficiency of the weakest phosphor, and the high voltage regulation. Emission has less effect, unless its really horrible. The odds are in your favor. . |
#18
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Cool well im anxiously awaiting my tester, before I went to bed last night I noticed the blue got weaker,, Now with the screens set all the way down, I notice that the green cranked will produce a green screen with retrace lines. Then I turn it down again. Then the red screen will produce a red screen with retrace lines, but the red is a bit out of focus (merky looking). then I turn the red back down, then when I try the blue, there is nothing on the screen. When I turn the green and red up to compensate, the picture is washed out looking. The Blue and Green drive controls help achieve my white balence, but looks horrible, the whites are bieng smeared with red all around them (not convergence issue, when I turn the color off the whites are not so bad. This is wierd but guess ill find out i its the crt or not soon..
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#19
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Last edited by andy; 12-07-2021 at 02:07 PM. |
#20
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Have you checked the ground connections for the PC boards to the chassis? This was always a known problem with all of these chassis, including my CTC-10. Some of your problems sure look like ground issues.
Best of luck getting this old boat anchor up and running. They do have a pretty picture when they are running right. |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Ok cool thanks guys. Well I got some good news today! My buddy Dan moved into his grandfathers house up here when he passed away a few years back. His grandpa was into vintage electronics. Long and behold sitting in the garage in a ctc-16. Looks like mine except the cabinet is not a Enertainment console. Hasn't been powered up since the early 80's he said. Think ill grab it and make it my next project, unless it's soo badly gone, considiring the cabinet is coming apart. The wood sides are peeling away from the cabinet. If I cant restore it, mabye I could use it or parts. hmmm...
Oh yeah, well I was incorrect on my last statement. The blue screen is actually present when i turn it up, but weaker than the red, so that makes me think the Chassis is not the problem here. Full turn on blue screen adjustment = 1/4 of what green in and 1/2 of red. Although blue is not merky like red. Im not too sure how bright these sets are supposed to look like with a good crt, does andyone have a pic of a good ctc-16 in operation? |
#22
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Well I don't have a pic, but they're DIM compared to todays sets. In a darkened room the picture just might make your jaw drop (how good it is). In a sunny living room you will have to turn the contrast into blooming a little (or a lot) and the quality goes out the window.
Ii is not unusual to have the screen controls set to different levels physically. They should be set for a line with the service switch on. The drives fix the white. If it wont do that, the picture is going to be unbearably bad. Maybe the other one will have a stronger CRT. John |
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