That CTC-11...

[jpdylon]

I've not had the troubles you're having with the vertical. Sorry to hear this set is being such a difficulty.

An esr meter measures equivalent series resistance. A cap may measure low ESR, but can still be bad. Just touch the wire of the ESR meter together and you get a good reading --when its a short.

At times, an bad cap cap will have good ESR readings, because it is leaky or shorted. This can be verified with an old analog VOM or VTVM. These meters use a much higher voltage than a DMM, ESR, or standard leakage meter. I use an old RCA VOM that has a 25v battery. When I set the resistance measurement to Rx10, its putting that 25 volts across the cap to measure its DC resistance. Because the 25v is much higher than 3, 6 or 9 volts, it is more likely to show a leaky condition rather than at a lower voltage which may not reveal the flaw. A real capacitance tester can put the rated voltage across the cap, in some cases up to 1kv depending on the model. This will definitely reveal any fault with the capacitor. Most of the time old caps just become leaky, or turn into resistors all together.

don't overlook ceramics or mica caps. True, they have a lower failure rate but they do die. If it only happens after warm up, then its a temperature related failure. You can buy a can of freeze mist and lightly spritz the components in the vertical osc and output sections while watching the screen. Pause between components and notice change. When you see a difference in picture size you've found a bad component. if you don't have a can of freeze mist, you can turn "can of air" upside down and spritz away.

A great thing to find if you like working on these sets is a test Jig. This is essentially an external CRT and speaker, and a bunch of extension cords to connect to the chassis while its out of the cabinet. They even have adapters so that you can run a round tube chassis on the rectangular CRT test jig. This makes it MUCH easier to troubleshoot the chassis, especially critical voltages around the tube sockets in the vertical section as in your case. They pop up from time to time and are fairly cheap. You might poke around TV shops in the area to see if they have something like that they would sell you.

Before I found and bought my equipment, in your situation I would simply compare voltages on the schematic and shotgun the offending section. See if the B+ lines on the vert osc and output section are within spec. If they are a little higher I wouldn't mind it much, but if they are lower, especially after the warmup look to the power supply.

[andy]

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[freakaftr8]

Yeah, that all makes since guys! I really do apprecialte the help! Im going to have to put this to the side, as my friend gave up on it and sold it to me..

[sampson159]

now you have another roundie!! i envy you. my 15 had vertical issues too. centering pot was gone and it had a double resistor set up to the linearity control that caused the top to expand - created coneheads! i cut out both resistors and cured that problem. then the service switch went up in smoke! it is on the back burner now. i will get to it someday. those vertical circuits in those old tubers. i need to learn more.