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  #31  
Old 07-13-2016, 11:35 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Unless there is a clear and present need for removing the flyback, such a major hysterectomy is ill advised.
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  #32  
Old 07-13-2016, 11:44 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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OK guys. Then do I just clean it the best I can in place using alcohol and Q-Tips?
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  #33  
Old 07-13-2016, 08:51 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I decided to work on re-stuffing the existing E-Caps. After I took careful notes on the wires etc, I removed them. After I cleaned the contacts up I took them to my band saw and sawed off the bottom portion of each cap just above the mounting base. Then I used a deck screw and a heat gun to pull out their guts. More heat and a craft stick to gouge out the tar. Some acetone and a wire brush and they were clean. I then trued up the bases using my flat plate sanding bar. Then the tops were trued up using my disc sander and miter gauge.

I then used some 1" thin wall sprinkler pipe with the end trued up like the tops, then it was cutoff 1" long. Then another end trued up, then cut off at 1" again. This gave me 2 pieces of thin wall tubing 1" high with 1 end trued up that I'll use as sleeves. The trued up end will be epoxied to each base.

I cleaned up both bases and sleeves and epoxied them the sleeves to the bases using 15 minute epoxy. I carefully positioned each sleeve to be centered between the walls. The epoxy was applied only to the inside so the epoxy won't interfere with the tops when assembled.

When the epoxy is dry tomorrow I'll polish both tops and bases. It's easier to polish the base because I can grip the sleeve!










Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-04-2016 at 12:36 AM.
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  #34  
Old 07-13-2016, 11:14 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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After I prepped the E-caps I decided it was time to clean the HV cage. I used alcohol and some places acetone. A lot of Q-Tips later this is what it looks like. I still have to change out the 10Kv cap when my order from Just Radios arrives. The HV cage looks a lot better. I also have to re-solder on the 6BQ6GT grid cap back on the wire. It was hanging on by a few strands when I got the TV.






Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-04-2016 at 12:38 AM.
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  #35  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:41 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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The epoxy has dried and I polished out the E-Caps cans. I've included a picture of how they will look assembled. The seam is almost invisible. The friction of the sleeve is all that is needed to hold the tops in place.




Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-04-2016 at 12:39 AM.
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  #36  
Old 07-14-2016, 12:33 PM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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Great looking job on those cap cans. I've never seen anyone do them so well.

.
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  #37  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:44 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WISCOJIM View Post
Great looking job on those cap cans. I've never seen anyone do them so well.

.
Thanks Jim.
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  #38  
Old 07-15-2016, 08:45 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I re-dressed and re-soldered on the plate cap clips for the 1B3GT and the 6BQ6GT tubes in the HV cage. I made sure there were sharp points. The reason I did this was the plate cap for the 6BQ6GT had fallen off. The wire strands were broken. The plate cap for the 1B3GT was hanging on by just a couple of strands.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-04-2016 at 12:40 AM.
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  #39  
Old 07-16-2016, 10:00 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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My E-Cap order came in so I finished up re-stuffing them. Each can holds 3 E-Caps. I used Nichicon slender caps where I can. Each can was able to hold the 3 caps next to each other. No stacking. I use hot glue to glue the 3 caps together with the negative leads close to each other. I then connect the negative leads together and use some solid 22awg 600V wire for the leads. I attached them using the coil method. I then form each lead to make up a bundle coming out from the approx. center. This bundle is laced tied to give it some extra strength. The leads are trimmed and stripped before I insert the caps into the sleeve.

A generous bead of hot glue is placed around the bundle then it is inserted through a 5/32 hole drilled in the bottom. The assembly is held in place till the hot glue sets up. Then the caps are tacked to the wall of the plastic sleeve. The leads are soldered to the contacts. The ground lead is left unattached. It will be connected to the can after it is inserted into the chassis.

I place the cans back into the proper position into the chassis. I then solder the "twist" tabs to the chassis. I'm afraid that they will break off if I twist them. Then the ground lead is attached to one of the tabs soldered to the chassis.

When all done, I'll slide the cans over each assembly to finish off the chassis.












Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 04:25 PM.
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  #40  
Old 07-17-2016, 11:17 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I got some more done on the chassis recapping.

I changed out the cap "C46" and resistor "R62"on the "Contrast" and "Horizontal Hold" control.

I then began recapping and rewiring the fuse and selenium rectifier. I'm using a terminal strip for each. I'm using pigtail fuses. For the rectifier, I'll wire the original selenium in then get some voltage measurements, then change it out for a 1N4007 diode. Then I'll adjust the existing 22 ohm resistor "R77" to match the correct voltage needed.

I'm needing my .2uf 630v caps from Just Radios to really get into recapping. The caps are "layered" and I'm not going to do much till I have all the caps on hand. There is some that I can do though. Just a limited amount.

I also changed out another cap "C54" and one of the heat stressed resistors "R77".










Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 04:31 PM.
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  #41  
Old 07-18-2016, 05:02 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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My order from Just Radios arrived. I emailed my order to Dave on Wednesday and he mailed it last Thursday. Wow, great service.

My friend provided me with some tubes and other parts so now I have all the parts to complete the restoration.

Stay tuned.
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  #42  
Old 07-19-2016, 12:38 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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This evening I got a few more caps replaced and finished the section around the E-Caps.

I also discovered that my vertical output transformer primary was open. Luckily, my friend had a replacement listed in the Sams parts list. A Merit A-3036. This was also installed tonight.

Tomorrow I'll work on finishing up the HV cage and on to the other film caps.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 10:42 PM.
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  #43  
Old 07-20-2016, 01:09 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I made some good progress today.

The HV cage is done. I replaced the .00047uf 10,000 volt cap with a .00047uf 15,000 volt cap and the 2 680K 2W carbon comp resistors with some new 3W resistors.

I started to replace the paper caps on the section that I started work on. Some of the paper caps were "buried" under other components. This causes a lot of other components to be lifted to gain access. I decided to go ahead and replace all the resistors along with the paper caps in the Horizontal section.

I'm including some pics of my progress. Also a picture of the enlarged schematic that I'm using and I high light the components when they have been replaced. Pretty much the horizontal section.






Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 10:44 PM.
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  #44  
Old 07-22-2016, 12:42 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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My progress so far.

I did an interim power up. I got a raster but low audio and it appeared no tuning.

We'll see what happens on the next power up.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 10:45 PM.
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  #45  
Old 07-22-2016, 09:53 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I finished replacing the caps and resistors.

I now have good audio and tuning.

I do have a problem with the video. It looks like multiple test patterns across the screen. I think I read somewhere that the horizontal frequency might be off? Any suggestions?

I'll go over what I replaced to see if I made a mistake.

The B+ is 329v compared to SAMS 340v.

Thanks for your help.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-06-2016 at 10:46 PM.
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