Zenith roundie

[marty59]

DaveWM, Do you recall what the Radio Shack part number for the pin/connector that you used for replacing the corroded one on your CRT socket is?

[DaveWM]

nope, it was just one of those 4 place white female sockets, looks a lot like the stuff you see in the old zeniths

[DaveWM]

well I guess I should keep the 21FJP22 jug with the cracked neck (all down right near the pins). I can throw it up in the attic, should be safe from moisture up there (it get so hot it the summer that even in FL the humidity bakes out every day). Some day it may be repairable.

[marty59]

Originally Posted by DaveWM

nope, it was just one of those 4 place white female sockets, looks a lot like the stuff you see in the old zeniths

Oh, like those AMP/Molex types..Seems like some sockets are more prone to this than others, and just because you have a certain chassis doesn't necessarly dictate what socket was used. Yea, I know that supplies on hand can and have changed through production runs.

I've seen this problem before with the style of socket that has the red phonolic back piece on it and rivits-secures near the center. Is this the type of socket you have? Just wondering...

I started looking at a Zenith 25LC30 and that focus pin must have been bad for quite a while as the CRT pin was corroded up too (cleaned up okay-whew!). I took my time slowly prying the two apart. I have not pulled the socket apart (yet) but it appears to have some signs of getting hot.

Not wanting to take away from your thread, but an observation to pass along.

[DaveWM]

yes this had the phenolic red back. I drilled out the rivuts and used some maching screws to re attach. the pin and socket were very corroded, had a heck of a time getting it to come off, extreme care of course to not damage the socket (not that it matters now since the tube went to air).

[Robert Grant]

OMG, what a depressing thread!
I just took a 24MC32 home yesterday (My first roundie - I'll post on another related thread after taking inventory and pics). In fact, seeing this thread, I briefly thought I got stuck with DaveWM's old TV (but realized the legs on his set are different then the one I got).

I guess I'm in for quite a project.

One question - I see two completely different sets of Sams Photofacts for this chassis - 769-4 and 804-4. Which one do I want? Do I need both?

[DaveWM]

zeniths are a push over, I just went out and fired mine up yesterday, working fine. had a bit of retrace lines showing up in very low contrast scenes, perhaps a tube, or maybe just the RC circuit used off the vert out to cut off the video amp tube.

anyway mine is a mess cabinet wise, I am thinking of pulling all the chassis parts out and knocking out the 1/4 wood sides and top, replace with some real plywood and stain/finish. the faux grain is really mucked up.

do watch out pulling the CRT plug, the focus pins are often stuck (corrosion).

[Robert Grant]

Really glad to hear that! I thought your story ended when your CRT went to air.

As for your cabinet - I notice that the plate behind the top of the VHF knob has the exact same scrape pattern as mine, LOL.

[DaveWM]

oh it did, big time, thats where a spare CRT comes in handy

[DaveWM]

yea its really really grungy. plus I am missing several of the plastic control knobs, but I may be able to scrounge up a few of those.

I could go the easy route and just try the stick on veeners, its been sitting for a while so it can set for a bit more while I think about it.

[marty59]

One question - I see two completely different sets of Sams Photofacts for this chassis - 769-4 and 804-4. Which one do I want? Do I need both?[/QUOTE]

The 804-4 is the "late production" version and the Sams is dated 3-66. Hopefully someone else will chime in here. I could be wrong but I believe the differences was with the IF's and tubes used? 1st and 2nd IF's used 6BZ6's and the earlier versions may have been the 6EH7's instead?

[DaveWM]

mine has the 7pin 6BZ6's.

[DaveWM]

geez, I dont know if I should

A) attempt a redo of the fake wood grain (one of those rubber simulated wood grain applicators that I have never used.

B) glue on some veneer.

C) replace all sides with some luan (sp) plywood.

D) nothing.

C is the most drastic
D is the easiest
A is the most learning
B is prob the easiest that will have a better look that it is now

[Robert Grant]

Took another look at the set (Zenith 5317U) this evening. The IF strip is (6BZ6)=>(6BZ6)=>(6EJ7).

I've had this thought about avoiding the stress on the CRT from forcefully pulling the CRT plug off.

Would it make sense to sever every one of the wires going to the plug, marking each wire at both side of the break for identification, pulling out the chassis (and/or testing the CRT) with the plug in place, then stripping the ends of the wires and joining them back with wire nuts when finished?

I've been thinking about this for some time, as I have another set (B&W, so not on this subforum) with a disintegrating yoke, but I may need to remove the chassis to replace caps behind it,

BTW - The story of my roundie continues on another thread "Zenith Roundie in Detroit"

[DaveWM]

you should not have to go to that extreme, a good shot of some penetrating type contract cleaner around where the CRT plugs in, let it set over nite, then just make sure you hold on to the CRT plug base and slowly rock (not twist) the back plug connector off. Also use your thumb to apply pressure to the midde key of the CRT connector while working the connector off.

If its really stuck badly it maybe the focus lead corroded, in which case you would have to deal with that anyway. Patience and working slowly is the key.