Bradford console

[maxhifi]

That's an interesting bit of retail history. I like this TV a lot more with the second set of photos, if you end up taking it home I will be interested to see inside, and read a restore thread

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by maxhifi

That's an interesting bit of retail history. I like this TV a lot more with the second set of photos, if you end up taking it home I will be interested to see inside, and read a restore thread

Right on, thanks for the input. I do like the oddities and I'm definitely getting it, just not 100% sure when. I'm still looking for better deals on transport.

It wasn't that long ago that Zeller's went defunct. Target took its place very briefly then ceased all Canadian operations. Canadian Tire took over the leases of quite a few of the former Zeller's/Target locations. The Canadian Tire I frequent was a Zeller's. I never went in when it was occupied by Target.

That vertically-oriented AC interlock, I had never seen such a thing. Is that a typical GE feature?

[zeno]

If it is a GE BEFORE you plug it in check the safety cap.
Usually the HOT is on a separate heat sync that is held
on by 4 plastic pins. Remove it & the cap is there. If its
the original white job replace it 1st. They went L & R on the
GE's & instantly blow the HOT. Yokes also shorted & the vert
module + & - rectifiers would short, cook the FBT & HOT.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[TVTim]

Great looking set Jon.

[Jon A.]

No thread jacking right now please, I'm hoping for useful information.

[zeno]

Well it is a GE I have only seen the chassis in 19" sets
& the porta color 2. ( ch# JA, QA etc)
Orange mallory cap seems to be the safety cap so OK. White one is
probably boost filter.
CRT socket can be replaced by any delta socket but double check the colors.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Jon A.]

Originally Posted by zeno

Well it is a GE I have only seen the chassis in 19" sets
& the porta color 2. ( ch# JA, QA etc)
Orange mallory cap seems to be the safety cap so OK. White one is
probably boost filter.
CRT socket can be replaced by any delta socket but double check the colors.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

I thought so, especially when the HOT heat sink matched your desciption. Hopefully the Wells-Gardner tube job discussion can be taken elsewhere now.

I'll need to put resistors in series with some replacement socket leads. I took out the white cap already and cleaned it up for a better photo.

[Electronic M]

I wonder if those resistors are stock, or some repairman's kludge?

[Jon A.]

Probably stock, I saw resistors in series with a CRT socket once before. Not right in the socket though. This setup may be unique to the consoles considering zeno's comment.

Edit 1: Scratch that, I just found out the resistors are normally hidden, at least in early SS sets with standalone CRT sockets. I just dissected a Zenith CCII CRT socket and it has the same value resistors, just with different tolerances.

Edit 2: Still not quite right, looks like the bad socket used to have a cover, and the resistor going to the focus pin is a different value than the one in the Zenith socket. I had to scratch off the Bondo (?) to find out. Every resistor from the bad socket has a 10% tolerance band, those in the Zenith socket are all over the place.

With no small effort I pulled the pins from the bad socket, noting the wire positions beforehand.

[Jon A.]

Now we're talkin'! Would a toonie do? Scratch that, found a quarter.

Considering the condition of these knobs it's a wonder the cabinet didn't turn to mush while in storage. It's in fantastic shape and the part I cleaned looks really good. There's a small faded spot, two small chips out of the laminate in a top corner and a tiny bit of peeling at the base in the back. A furniture touch-up marker and a bit of glue will bring it up to snuff.

So 19Q8 is an exact match for a GE chassis number? A Google search turned up nothing.

I don't know what to think of the orange drop in there, it's just a 2-lead job so the safety interlock was probably jumped, but I don't know where to look for it in this case.

The CRT came back fairly well on normal filament voltage alone. I auto-cycled each gun and now it's testing quite strong. Fortunately the deteriorated HV anode cap was screw-set. I got rid of that, cleaned up the crap I could reach and washed the tar off my hands. I'll check behind the yoke soon enough.

Sounds good to me. Knob detail photos here:

Not anymore, Flickr account closed and replaced.

The fine tuning knobs are identical.

[zeno]

Scratch " any delta tube" I forgot older ones have seperate
resistors & SG's. The Zenith CC ones are fine, values
are not critical. All I remember had 1K as the value. Fail point
has always been rot & arcing at the focus pin caused by too much
focus ( 22-5001) or very humid enviroment.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Jon A.

Now we're talkin'! Would a toonie do? Scratch that, found a quarter.

Considering the condition of these knobs it's a wonder the cabinet didn't turn to mush while in storage. It's in fantastic shape and the part I cleaned looks really good. There's a small faded spot, two small chips out of the laminate in a top corner and a tiny bit of peeling at the base in the back. A furniture touch-up marker and a bit of glue will bring it up to snuff.

So 19Q8 is an exact match for a GE chassis number? A Google search turned up nothing.

I don't know what to think of the orange drop in there, it's just a 2-lead job so the safety interlock was probably jumped, but I don't know where to look for it in this case.

The CRT came back fairly well on normal filament voltage alone. I auto-cycled each gun and now it's testing quite strong. Fortunately the deteriorated HV anode cap was screw-set. I got rid of that, cleaned up the crap I could reach and washed the tar off my hands. I'll check behind the yoke soon enough.

Sounds good to me. Knob detail photos here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/spacec...57682561551492

The fine tuning knobs are identical.

VHF/UHF channel change knobs, I've got. I'm all out of Fine Tuning, apparently. For the VHF, a transplant of the legend dial from a short shaft knob to the long shaft knob will have to happen, but two spankin' new knobs are yours. I'll contact you via PM for the postage.

[Findm-Keepm]

Your chassis seems to be a 19QB. A Portsmouth plant chassis, shipped north to be matched to a Canadian cabinet. The QB chassis is nearly identical to the JA chassis in layout and parts. Sams 1471 covers the QB chassis, and would likely be helpful.

GE made so many sets for export, Ethan Allen, and others that the chassis often blur the lines between them.

I also have your CRT socket - NOS, from a disintegrating GE parts bag. DO all of your leads have female sockets on them where they connect to the chassis? The only markings on this one is APCO EIA 1210, with some patent numbers....

[Jon A.]

Yup, all 1K in the GE other than the focus pin. If I can see the colors properly the focus resistor is 3.9K.

By the way, the tag that's supposed to cover the HOT (it fell off on one side) says it carries 1KV. I wondered how much juice a typical HOT case carries since I accidentally touched the one in my Electrohome. I can easily get more of a jolt from touching everyday objects during cool, dry weather. I'll take that over line voltage any day.

[Jon A.]

Ahhhh, I didn't look closely enough at the chart at first, it is indeed a 19QB.

That's awesome about the parts, much appreciated. I suppose the fine tuning knobs could easily be electroplated. The channel knobs, well, good luck restoring those. Also, I don't think I'll need to transplant anything; the ends of the shafts are about 1/8" below the trim panel. The socket does use female chassis connectors, those for the focus and filament leads being different. Both filament leads are attached to the same plug and the focus lead terminates in something that looks like an in-line fuse holder. The EIA number is a match and the patent number on the original is 3251016-337612.

I just realized, the knobs that came with it aren't even a matched set. The VHF knob is probably from a smaller set. I noticed the legend dial diameter difference right away, but now I see the VHF knob lacks the raised V-shaped section and is more chunky.