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Old 04-01-2011, 02:46 PM
JCFitz JCFitz is offline
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Anyone got hv cup/socket assy?

Well it's official. I just got the email that Moyers doesn't have the HV cup/socket I need for the Admiral 20Y4E chassis I've been working on..

It would seem this part was used on a lot of other b/w sets so I'm posting my plea for help. The 1B3 goes in the side facing outwards which I will attach a picture. The socket and wires all come from the other side.

Set plays fine except there is a constant ticking coming from this cup. If you listen carefully it has a slight echo like it is coming from inside the cup. Also a change to a slightly shorter and newer base style 1G3 lessens it somewhat. Maybe because where the connections enter the glass no longer are in line with the grounded chassis inside of the cup? No matter how dark the room is I can't see it.The glowing tubes ensure you can't get complete darkness like with a solid state set.

I can get pictures of the underside if needed.Just need to pull the chassis. Darn it this set would be ready to go to the lady that wants it real bad if not for this little snag.
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File Type: jpg Admiral HV cup 002.JPG (142.4 KB, 66 views)
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:28 PM
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marty59 marty59 is offline
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Just wondering, are the pins tight and clean? And worse case, could the socket itself somehow be removed from the cup? Are there some unused pins that could be removed?

Phil Nelson addressed a ticking rectifier issue on his Philco Miss America...
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Old 04-02-2011, 08:21 AM
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marty59 marty59 is offline
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Don't know if it would be a correct size, maybe you can change it out with one from an RCA CTC chassis that rests the rectifier on the flyback.

Last edited by marty59; 12-30-2011 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:20 PM
JCFitz JCFitz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marty59 View Post
Just wondering, are the pins tight and clean? And worse case, could the socket itself somehow be removed from the cup? Are there some unused pins that could be removed?

Phil Nelson addressed a ticking rectifier issue on his Philco Miss America...
I kinda wonder if I ruined it. See this chassis was covered in cigarette tar and the entire rectifier area was black.I cleaned everything in pure ammonia to cut the tar it was so thick.See how clean it is now? just wondering if the ammonia chemically affected this cup or took off some kind of coating that prevented the ticking.It didn't do this when I first got it working but I had a drive problem(bad drive trimmer) and a miswired screen grid cap(going nowhere on the ground end) so my hv was a little low.as soon as I fixed the screen cap ground and no longer had glowing plate problems so I could finally let it run for long periods my hv came up enough to get the ticking(started right away) and it's been there ever since.It didn't do it before the recap or cleaning either but that trimmer was bad so hv was lower.
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Old 04-02-2011, 10:37 PM
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ohohyodafarted ohohyodafarted is offline
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HV is a funny thing. I had a 15gp22 that was ticking around the ultor ring around the front of the tube. Even though the area is shielded by a thick plastic insulator, I was getting HV static leakage. I cleaned the tube and the inside of the plastic HV shield and the problem disappeared. There was evidently a film of barely detectable cigarette smoke on the tubes surface.

I suspect that you may have possibly forced some of the residue from your cleaning into the areas around the tube socket. If it can't be disolved with a cleaning solvent and then blown dry with compressed air to remedy the issue, then the next best thing is to try and replace the tube socket itself to see if that will cure the static leakage.
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:01 PM
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We used to slather on a thin layer of RTV3145 (obtained cheaply, thanks to the DOD local auctions) on cups until we could get a replacement. I went on a service call one time to find a cup in a 60's Magnavox we had layered with RTV, still holding up after 6 or 7 years. At the time, gray RTV was a rarity, and most of the stuff sold commercially was either white or black, so seeing a gray-RTV-slathered cup told me instantly it was one of our patch jobs.

Good enough for flybacks, good enough for HV cups. IIRC, RTV3145 has a dielectric strength of about 2KV/mil or so. Try to dig out any carbon traces (if present) before applying the RTV, and keep it thin - you can always add easily.

Cheers,
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:04 PM
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EBY used to make the cups, and they are still in business. Who knows? Maybe they might be able to help....

Cheers,
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:06 AM
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Phil Nelson Phil Nelson is offline
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What is going on underneath that socket? I had a 630TS with arcing under the 1B3GT socket and ever since then I've been obsessive about cleaning everything under and around there. Also look for any sharp points -- a little solder tail, a clipped lead end, etc. If you spot a carbon track anywhere, that's a tipoff, of course.

It seems unlikely that ammonia removed an insulating coating. I'm guessing the cup & socket material are similar to Bakelite -- the material itself has insulating properties.

Couldn't hurt to clean it again in case Bob's idea is right, and the first cleaning washed gunk down into some cracks. I have used isopropyl or denatured alcohol before. Blowing it all out with compressed air sounds good, too.

How is the socket attached to the cup? Replacing a socket would be one approach if you can get the old one out.

The problem I had with a Miss America was different. The RTV coating that I applied to that flyback is holding up fine, however.

Phil Nelson
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:08 PM
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bgadow bgadow is offline
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I figured out where my "bucket-o-sockets" and "bucket-o-HV cups" were, and took a look. Nothing exactly like that. There was one really close but it was for a miniature type. (guess you could convert it?) The nearest I could find is this:


Maybe you could modify it to work? I looked on a few of the junker chassis' I have but none of them used a "sunken" socket. I have some very large HV cups for color but they would almost certainly eat up more space than you have.
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