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  #46  
Old 11-07-2017, 12:39 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I thought I'd restore the power supply first. Then the main chassis.

The PS chassis is pretty green from the CAD plating.



I scrubbed it off using a mixture of 50/50 CLR and water. I used a green Scotchbrite pad I get at the Home Depot. I then used Q-tips to swab out the underneath part of the chassis. All was rinsed with Isopropyl alcohol and then dried.

When flipping it over one time, it slipped out of my hand and broke the E-Cap phenolic insulator. After removing the E-Cap (C2) I removed and replaced the insulator mount using some 4-40 screws, lock washers, and nuts. All better now. While I was removing the rivets on the mount I also removed the Candohm (R62) resistor. I then bolted on a 3.5K 25W chassis mount resistor. I'll never have to worry about that going bad! I also used some heat sink compound between the resistor and chassis.



I then noticed that in 2 places a grounding lug was riveted to the chassis. I cleaned both up with a small wire brush and applied some flux to the area. I used my 150W soldering iron to solder both of those ground lugs to the chassis. Only one is shown.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 11-07-2017 at 12:43 AM.
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  #47  
Old 11-07-2017, 12:50 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I then got to work on re-stuffing the E-Cap (C2). I'll use my usual method of cutting off the base right at the bottom of the can, clean it all out, true up the parting surfaces of both the base and the can. I enlarged the hole in the middle of the base to 5/32. Then I epoxy a 1 inch tall piece of PVC pipe to the base. Making sure there is no epoxy on the outside which will interfere with a good seam where the base and can meet. Tomorrow I'll add the replacement E-Caps.






Last edited by Crist Rigott; 11-07-2017 at 01:03 AM.
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  #48  
Old 11-07-2017, 01:40 AM
snelson903 snelson903 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy G View Post
What I was trying to say,& that obviously has gotten taken about as far out of context as possible is that these Porthole style sets were and are STRANGE looking-Especially now,as it seems that the normative "Look" for a TV is a black/grey rectangular plastic box w/little or no adornment at all. When Portholes were new, having a TV was still something of a big Deal, Zenith kinda run 'em up the flagpole,as the Sets with the "Giant CIRCLE screen", My Porthole is a12" tabletop model that is vinyl/leather covered. When I show it off, most people that are roughly my age-60 say they can remember them, but younger folks & kids are completely befuddled by it. Its also amazing as to how many people claim to never having seen A b/w TV of any sort...
im confused
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  #49  
Old 11-07-2017, 02:00 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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With how toxic cad plating is (and that it is original) I usually try to leave it alone.

Given the set has not ran in a long time I'd be leery of completely sealing the fly windings. Sometimes moisture collects in the windings and it takes a while running the set for it to boil out....Plugging it's escape route seems like something to avoid doing.
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  #50  
Old 11-07-2017, 08:53 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
With how toxic cad plating is (and that it is original) I usually try to leave it alone.

Given the set has not ran in a long time I'd be leery of completely sealing the fly windings. Sometimes moisture collects in the windings and it takes a while running the set for it to boil out....Plugging it's escape route seems like something to avoid doing.
The CAD plating is removed easily and is captured in the solution. I think it's best to get rid of it once and for all.

Remember that I baked it prior to sealing.
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  #51  
Old 11-07-2017, 02:00 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Looking good! At some point I need to try dipping a flyback in Polyurethane varnish and see how it holds up. The Super Corona Dope MSD sheet says it's a modified Alkyd, which I'm assuming means it's a your basic Alkyd resin with Polyurethane additive for better flexibility/heat resistance. Also most Alkyd and Phenolic resins are moisture permeable, meaning they will allow moisture vapor to slowly pass through them.

https://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/f2adb...1b03fa9565.pdf
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  #52  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:25 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Thanks Kevin.
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  #53  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:31 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Today I re-stuffed C2. I used some solid 22awg 600V wire for each lead to the terminals. I'll let the pictures tell the story.













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  #54  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:39 PM
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How do you get such a nice clean cut when opening the caps? Lathe??

jr
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  #55  
Old 11-07-2017, 07:29 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
How do you get such a nice clean cut when opening the caps? Lathe??

jr
I use a band saw then true up the parting surfaces with my disc sander.
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  #56  
Old 11-07-2017, 07:31 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Just a fun fact. Here is a picture of all the resistors and capacitors I intend to replace during this restoration. $ E-Caps are missing from the photo. They are in a re-stuffed C2. All of the replacement resistors are the next step up in wattage. The 1/2W get 1W, the 1W gets 2W, the 2W gets 3W, the 4W gets 7W, and so on. The main chassis Candohm (R109) resistor is listed as a 15K 10W and will be replaced with a 15K 50W chassis mount resistor.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 11-07-2017 at 08:24 PM.
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  #57  
Old 11-07-2017, 10:09 PM
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I'm still not sure about upping the wattage on resistors. I think I'd rather have a resistor smoke than a flyback or transformer. Granted a half watt or a watt may not make much difference.
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  #58  
Old 11-07-2017, 10:24 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
I'm still not sure about upping the wattage on resistors. I think I'd rather have a resistor smoke than a flyback or transformer. Granted a half watt or a watt may not make much difference.
Interesting thought. Though I'll add a "mains" fuse and then there is a .250 amp fuse in the HV cage. Though I'm not really sure what it protects.

All of the modern day 1/2W resistors seem to have very wimpy leads on them. Great for use on PCB's but not so good for point-to-point wiring. Another reason I used 1W, their leads are thicker.
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  #59  
Old 11-08-2017, 09:26 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I finished the power supply. I decided to paint the chassis. I used Rust-Oleum grey primer #254150 and Metallic Matte Nickel #727830. I then used Bar-B-Q Black #7778 on the transformer.

There were only a handful of components to change. I cleaned the tubes and their sockets. I did have to notch one end of the aluminum plate because to went over the choke mounting ear.

I then cleaned all the wires underneath and going to the plug. All done.





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  #60  
Old 11-08-2017, 12:54 PM
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Sandy G Sandy G is offline
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Man, that chassis sure is PRETTY...Almost as striking as an E.H. Scott chassis..
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