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  #76  
Old 12-08-2014, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvcollector View Post
According to the Sams the coil is L46 item number - Horiz Osc - GE part number ET36X727 - Miller part number 6350... Others are blank including Thordason.. Looks like there is a few other of these coils that are the same throughout the chassis... If anyone has this part.. I'll be the buyer..
FYI, the Miller 6350 is a focus coil. PM responded to.
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  #77  
Old 12-08-2014, 12:59 PM
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Last edited by andy; 11-20-2021 at 03:44 PM.
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  #78  
Old 12-08-2014, 01:07 PM
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Andy, I checked mine (same model) it was 3 ohms at the plug.
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  #79  
Old 12-08-2014, 03:22 PM
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Removed cap.. I measured again this time at the plug, and got 3ohms with the tv power switch in the on position.. Plugged it with the varic with light in series and cranked it a little and got life.. The tuner light came up and the tubes started to glow, and heard faint crackling from the speaker, then I powered off.. That's all im doing until I get a tube and horz osc coil and replacement cap..

Findm-Keepm I just tried to reply.. You have exceeded your message storage limit.. I want to send you my address.. I've sent the money for your osc coil to your paypal account.. You're right I read the sams wrong.. It's all blank as far is and Thoradson or miller etc..
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Last edited by tvcollector; 12-08-2014 at 05:55 PM.
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  #80  
Old 12-08-2014, 06:23 PM
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I got it setting on the variac with the horizontal output tube out.. First time I've ever seen a roundie with a coax in.. I hooked it directly from the digital cable box and it's picking up signal, which is good... Looks like this set is not going to need much work..

Went from a dead set, to a KABOOM, to a set that's now coming to life.. I guess I'm starting to catch on to this stuff.. I just hope it will be less KABOOMS in the future..

I assume 2 of these from digikey will work for the coils

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...8273-ND/774813

The Cap is rated .047 600v.. I found a few at digikey here

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...07287966524400
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...07287966524400
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...07287966524400
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Last edited by tvcollector; 12-08-2014 at 08:04 PM.
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  #81  
Old 12-08-2014, 07:28 PM
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I searched .047 600v and got several possibilities.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine....word=.047+600v

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...?k=.047%20600v

Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 12-08-2014 at 07:31 PM.
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  #82  
Old 12-08-2014, 07:32 PM
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Get an X or Y rated line safety cap...Not just some 600VDC rated part. It will be safer that way.
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  #83  
Old 12-08-2014, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
I updated my post as you posted.. Notice my last link links to a cap that you linked from digikey (first orange cap on the list)..

I think this one will be the most appropriate..
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...07287966524400
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Last edited by tvcollector; 12-08-2014 at 08:03 PM.
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  #84  
Old 12-08-2014, 11:22 PM
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I've got one, will ship with coil. free.
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  #85  
Old 12-09-2014, 12:09 AM
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Ok.. Thanks..
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  #86  
Old 12-09-2014, 11:10 AM
Alastair E Alastair E is offline
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IF this set is anything like any hybrid or tubed euro set, it will NOT appreciate having power to the line output flyback stage--Without having any line drive--As in your horiz osc coil missing from the set!

you could well fry your LOPT and defo cook the line-output bottles!

IF you HAVE to run the set, pull the topcap leads from the line-output valves....
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  #87  
Old 12-09-2014, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair E View Post
IF this set is anything like any hybrid or tubed euro set, it will NOT appreciate having power to the line output flyback stage--Without having any line drive--As in your horiz osc coil missing from the set!

you could well fry your LOPT and defo cook the line-output bottles!

IF you HAVE to run the set, pull the topcap leads from the line-output valves....
Some of those euro TV circuit nouns can be a bit hard to translate into American EE speak...
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  #88  
Old 12-09-2014, 04:27 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alastair E View Post
IF this set is anything like any hybrid or tubed euro set, it will NOT appreciate having power to the line output flyback stage--Without having any line drive--As in your horiz osc coil missing from the set!

you could well fry your LOPT and defo cook the line-output bottles!

IF you HAVE to run the set, pull the topcap leads from the line-output valves....
Indeed old chap. But even with the topcap connector off, with no line drive on G1, he'll still cook the screen grid (G2) of the line-output bottle.


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  #89  
Old 12-09-2014, 07:01 PM
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I ran the set probably less than a minute total at full 120v.. Nothing seemed to be burning out.. I started to smell the scent of burning dust, the horizontal output tube was the only thing I removed and also the HV lead with sucksion cup that connects to pic tube so I can remove the chassis.. I tested all the tubes, and there are alot of tubes with grid leakage, shorted, or weak.. I'm not going to power it up anymore until I get the horz osc coil replaced, tubes replaced, coils replaced, and the .047 600v cap replaced. Then I'll do a slow power up with lamp in series with 200watt bulb, and with all HV connected..

I tried the lamp procedure with a 100watt bulb and it didn't seem to work...
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  #90  
Old 12-09-2014, 09:29 PM
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you don't want to do a slow power up with the Horz Out in place.
better process would be:

fix coil, remove the horz out and the vert out tubes
put a meter on the 400v b+ to monitor voltage
put a AC amp meter on line to monitor line current and a AC voltmeter to check voltage
use a variac (dont use a light bulb), mine has the AC amp and AC volt built in.
ramp up to about 30vac.
B+ should be up around 150vdc
leave it there for a bit say 10 min then take it up to about 60vac B+ should be about 300vdc, AC current will prob be under 1 amp, see if the filter caps are getting warm at all. wait another 10min then go to about 80vac B+ should be getting close to 400vdc AC current will not go up much,leave it for 10 min keep watching to see if there is any sudden changes, B+ may continue to rise after dropping a bit. prob have audio if all going well at this point then power off, put the vert out and horz out tubes back in, put a meter in series with the cathode of the horz out (may be a jumper that needs to be opend for this) set to a min scale of 250ma, hook up an HV prob, and do a full power start up.
watch the cathode current of the horz out. As that tube warms up watch the current it should stop at around 200ma (and you should see/hear the crackle of the HV). check the sams for the correct HV setting make sure its right or adj the pot to set it, then check the eff coil for the dip.

if the HO cathode current starts heading north of 250ma shut down, you have a problem.


Not a good idea to slow start with the sweep tubes in.
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