Westinghouse TV no picture : Strip or fix?

[ALTEC9846-8A]

The values of caps is not that critical.Usually the manufacturer made the capacitance as small as possible because back then they costed more than today. The next higher value in cap and the same or higher voltage should be ok. eg. 34ufd 280v ,a 39ufd 350v would be fine. just go higher in cap and working voltage. These days caps come in standard values(same values)as resistors.(39,47,56,68 ect)Just use higher value of cap and voltage and you should be fine and be careful!

[JesusJones]

Alright so where does everyone get there caps from?
I went to some places in Winnipeg and it was like 8$ for each 350 volt cap. And at the other store it was nearly 17$. SO maybe the internet is the way to go or something, any one have any suggestions?

Oh and can I use axial caps. The kind with leads on both sides. Or must they be surface mount can type. With both leads on the bottom?
I didn't think it mattered but maybe it does.


OOOO I just found a bag of my capacitors and I had waaay more than I thought
I found a 33 uf 450 dc
a 40 uf 450 dc
20 uf 450 dc
100 uf 250 dc
30 uf 450 dc
i have enough 33 to parralel them up with 100 and make a 160
But these are all axial type with leads on both sides so are they useless? DO they they have to be "radial" (both leads on the bottom)

[electroking]

For just getting the TV to work, you can experiment with any properly rated
capacitors that will fit. Some restorers dismantle the innards of the big old
tubular capacitors and install modern replacements inside. I just saw a thread
for an old Zenith color TV with fine pictures illustrating the latter procedure.
See post 19 in this thread:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...=170055&page=2


Be careful with capacitor that have been lying around for some time. Even
though they were never installed, they may have dried out. But then again,
they might work fine. Just be sure not to install them backwards.

[JesusJones]

Sounds like its worth a try to me. And wow these are tons smaller than the old ones.
I'm gonna switch the ones that I can, as for the one I can't replace should I fear it exploding or anything. Or should I just give it a shot, then replace it later if all goes well.

[wa2ise]

Originally Posted by JesusJones

Oh and can I use axial caps. The kind with leads on both sides. Or must they be surface mount can type. With both leads on the bottom?
I didn't think it mattered but maybe it does.

Electronically, except for the IF strip and the tuner, it doesn't matter. And you shouldn't need to change anything in the IF or tuner anyway, those caps there are usually ceramic discs and rarely go bad.

Even the manufacturers will use axial caps in a pinch where a radial cap was designed for, on a circuit board. They would use caps with leads long enough so they can bend one end over to reach the circuit board with the cap standing upright. They want to ship product, and can't wait around for the radials to show up in a few days.

[JesusJones]

"Woot I know what I'm doing today then. Maybe I'll have a picture of a working Tv for you Guys today. Or a Tv with alot of blown up capacitors but I don't even care at this pointcause I just remembered I was gonna strip this thing originally.Ha"
I said earlier


Well I went, and was gonna try, till I took a better look. I can hardly get in back there to switch them. They are soldered in pretty well. And since they have 3 caps in one can I can't figure out which mfd goes to which lead. And without a schem I have nothing to go on. And to take the CRT out of this thing Is a big job in itself. The whole actual Tv and all its compenents are attached to a board. which came out of the tv box as a whole. So I at least wanna do all the caps when I do this Job. Not just the ones I can at this moment.
Bugger

[bgadow]

It can be tricky to figure out those multicaps but you can do it. Most use this system: on the side of the can it will list the different caps, something like this-
(triangle) 160 mfd
(square) 80 mfd
(half circle) 20 mfd
(no mark) 20 mfd

If I knew what I was doing I would show the actual symbols instead of (triangle) etc, but look at the lable and you will see what I mean. Now, the tricky part. Look at the bottom, next to the leads on that can. Just next to the leads the base will be punched out in the shape of, you guessed it, a triangle, a square, a half-circle-and one won't have any pattern. That's how you can figure it out without the schematic. Still, having the Sams is really nice.

There are several good places online to get caps at a reasonable price. Am I right that you are in Canada? justradios.com would be perfect. Radiodaze is another one I use.

[JesusJones]

Thank you very much Bgadow
I did notice those triangles and squares. But I could not find them on the bottom of the cap, so I gave up. But like I said before it's almost impossible for me to see behind there just yet. But I will get it all apart and do it. And figure that multi cap out
And yes I am in Canada and most likely will use your websites you suggested.
Thanks again

[Old1625]

Originally Posted by JesusJones

Thank you very much Bgadow
I did notice those triangles and squares. But I could not find them on the bottom of the cap, so I gave up. But like I said before it's almost impossible for me to see behind there just yet. But I will get it all apart and do it. And figure that multi cap out
And yes I am in Canada and most likely will use your websites you suggested.
Thanks again

If you look carefully at the bottom of the twistlok can where the live terminals are you will see that they protrude from the innards of the can through what is usually a brown bakelite or phenolic insulating material. On one side of each terminal (except for the "no mark" one) there will be an enlargement of the passage hole in the shape of a semicircle, square or triangle. Or the pattern will be embossed nearby.

[electroking]

Hello,

I found the proper RCC supplement for your TV, which appears to
go by the name Chassis T-109. Please give me a few hours to get
this stuff properly scanned. Bye for now.

[electroking]

Hello again,

Here is the schematic (pages 71 and 72), a chassis diagram (p. 41)
and a sample of the service data (p. 38). I am also enclosing the
index from the cover, though the image is quite dirty. I can get you
all the remaining pages if you want. Good luck.

P.S.: I will only send the schematic with this message, remainder
to follow.

[electroking]

As described in the previous message. Regards.

[nasadowsk]

Canadian set - the schematic references 25hz AC power operation!

[electroking]

Originally Posted by nasadowsk

Canadian set - the schematic references 25hz AC power operation!

You're right, and this brings a question. A transformer type set designed
for 25-Hz will work fine on 60-Hz, with only improved filtering. What about
a voltage-doubler set like this one?

By the way, the actual set discussed in this thread is the 60-Hz model,
as evidenced by the fact that it has a single filter choke.

[JesusJones]

Damn wish I had looked here an hour ago hahaha.
I just ordered all the caps by tediously looking inside and turning them and what not. But it's all good. And thanks for the schematic. Hopefully most of the voltages are near spec. I can't wait for those caps to get here. I'll tell you guys what happens as soon as I do.
And I"m pretty sure this set has two Chokes. And it also says on the back it's meant for 60hz.
I can't wait
Rudy