Westinghouse TV no picture : Strip or fix?

[electroking]

Originally Posted by JesusJones

I did leave it off.

I know that 500 volts is near the maximum value of the tubes, (most likely) and you don't want anything like that. It actually made me sad when I found out I had been testing the Tv at 475 volts. I'm amazed it stayed alive for 30 seconds.

It wasn't until I put my 25 ohm and 150 ohm resistor in that I tried it.
The Voltage was actually too low. I've been paraleling resistors since then to try and get it up.
Voltage doesnt go anywhere near 400 anymore though. Which is a big releif


I only really have 2 problems now.
The screen is too wide
And the top looks a incy bit stretched. Other than that all seems well.

Once you get the power supply fixed (and take the time to do it right!),
you will learn to use the width (R-452) and height (R-421) controls
to adjust those things as needed. Good night.

[JesusJones]

Originally Posted by electroking

Once you get the power supply fixed (and take the time to do it right!),
you will learn to use the width (R-452) and height (R-421) controls
to adjust those things as needed. Good night.

The height is Ok I think. It seems to be working better.

But the width is another story. I originally had a problem with this variable pot. So I switched it out and put a 5K as a temp. fix. This brought my HV back and I continued troubleshooting.

Now the 5 k pot in there was not enough to make the screen narrow enough. So I put resistors in there ( 3k 5k 10k) Untill it would get narrower.

But it never got narrower. I left the 10 k and the pot adjusted to full and the screen doesn't even looks like it got much narrower at all. The horizontal hold at the front of the TV does more to narrow it.(Or it just moves the picture over to the left and right)

More resistance or what?
Thanks
Rudy


So I ran the TV for about 20 minutes today. Played some Nintendo. Here's the verdict.

Mario was very very short at the bottom of the screen. And Mario was very very tall near the top of the screen. Fun game

And also the general picture was off the screen. Like I said before, the top of the screen is off the screen, by the time the bottom of the screen actually reaches the bottom.
The top is stretched, the bottom is compressed. I tried fiddling with ALL the controls. It cant be set properly.
Recapping the vertical or what needs to be done. Has some one had similar problems?
And also the fusible resistor is still getting rather hot. To hot to touch. The TV did hold up for the 20 minutes though.
Thanks
Rudy

[JesusJones]

heres some pictures
Everyone's favorite

70's show and a Tic Tac commercial

Just wondering. Is there any sort of symptom that causes picture to show but current is too high. Picture is poor. And adjustments don't work properly. I am just trying to get an idea of what might be going on.
Also some tubes are new some are old. Could this be causing this sort of problem/problems?
Thanks a bunch guys
Rudy

P.S. I am much more attached to this TV now since I decided to restore it. I want it to be at it's best. No matter what

[wa2ise]

Originally Posted by JesusJones

Mario was very very short at the bottom of the screen. And Mario was very very tall near the top of the screen. Fun game

And also the general picture was off the screen. Like I said before, the top of the screen is off the screen, by the time the bottom of the screen actually reaches the bottom.
The top is stretched, the bottom is compressed. I tried fiddling with ALL the controls. It cant be set properly.
Recapping the vertical or what needs to be done. Has some one had similar problems?

Vertical circuits should benefit from a recap. Leaky caps will mess up the linearity. Also check resistors while you're in there.

[JesusJones]

Thank you Wa2ise
Good luck on your uhf vhf converter

Just wondering... Does anyone here actually put a piece of glass in front of the screen when they are servicing the components out of the box? I've noticed most picture tube data sheets say to do this.

[bgadow]

Technically, yeah, I guess you should, but I never have. Not sure how you would do it on the bench. It seems to me that if the crt were to implode the face of the tube would be the least of the worries.

Great progress! Usually impossible to get the vertical running properly without all new caps in that circuit. The timing is critical and if it's off you really see it.

[JesusJones]

The glass sheilding Is not so much for the tube shattering but more the X-rays. But yea, I didn't use one either :P

Well caps is what I need then. Does any one by chance have a source that will sell only a couple capacitors?
If not I really don't know what I'll do. I'll have to either pay for "Italian" caps($$$)
Or order a bunch of capacitors I don't even need.
Or If some one knew where to get a schematic for a Nordmende Isabella model C Stereo console. I would order new caps for this. And my Tv and that would probably be a large enough of an order.

And I fully intend on enjoying this set. I have already played nintendo on it for at least a good half hour. And watched some 70's show. When the picture is more perfect I will be doing things like that ALL the time.

[JesusJones]

Should I use Metalized Polypropylene Film axial capacitors
or
"Orange dip" type capacitors, these are sort of radial.

The original ones in there are radial paper ones I think. With a black plastic shell.

You can see the ones I need help choosing here http://www.justradios.com/capacitors.html

Any input would be appreciated, thanks
Rudy

[Old1625]

That set shouldn't be too fussy about capacitors. Just use Orange Drops or something of the sort--doesn't necessarily have to be polyprop. After all consider what the set had to work with originally. Just get some nonpolarised conventional cylindrical or dipped radial caps, and stick 'em in and be done with it is what I'd do.

You will likely need to replace all the caps eventually. Your pictures show that the vertical size and linearity controls are still not adjusted properly. If the potentiometers used for these adjustments are in good shape, and the associated capacitors are replaced, and all other fixed resistors check out OK, then you should be able to twiddle the two adjustments to get a good linearity. Bear in mind that both controls affect both size of sweep and linearity of sweep. IIRC the "size" control when decreased will shrink the bottom of the picture, and the "linearity" control will affect the top of the picture. But both controls interact, and you need to go back and forth between the two in order to get a good circle shape on the screen from a std test pattern.

[JesusJones]

I think I will go with the orange caps, Thanks.

As of right now the height control makes the screen get bigger or smaller.

And linearty makes the bottom of the screen cut off, and the top stretches out.

So I think a recap should help.

And a std test pattern, what is this exactly?

[electroking]

Hello again,

Replacing 'all the caps' is almost true, however, the small value caps that are
mostly inside the tuner and around the IF chain (V-3, V-4, V-5), typically
ceramic discs of silver-mica, are the most reliable. Priority should be given
to all the electrolytics, and all the big tubular coupling caps (mostly everything
that is .01 microfarad or larger). Check the notes regarding the types of
capacitors at bottom left of the schematic.

Since your most obvious problem at present is vertical non-linearity, the area
around V-14 and V-15 is the most obvious place to start the recapping, as
I trust you already understand.

By the way, did you notice the reference to 'brow' or 'side' (for instance different
values of C-200 at left of V-3)? In case you're wondering, this refers to the
position of the controls in various models using this chassis. In your case,
'brow' is the right keyword. Bye for now.

[bgadow]

Originally Posted by JesusJones

And a std test pattern, what is this exactly?

You've probably seen an old test pattern that shows a large circle with odd patterns inside and out, often with and Indian Head in the middle or a station identification. There are DVD's available with these on them. You don't really have to get that fancy-you just need some stationary pattern that you can use to judge linearity with. You may find one of the screens on your video games to work well. A big circle is good because you can easily tell if the picture is stretched.

[JesusJones]

Thank you all.
And I am doing as Electroking said. I am Only replacing the caps which are not ceramic disk or mica. And I have not used the schematic as reference to what I need. I am actually looking at the capacitors to read what they are. I want no mistakes.

And using the video game for a test screen is a great idea! There are actually some really good screens for doing it, thanks.

I'm ordering the capacitors now. And when they come in, and I put them in. I will be back to post pictures and tell of the great news.
Till then, Cheers
Rudy