#61
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I give up. My whole goal here was to save crt sets from ending up in the dump. I got close with this one and now it looks like this
Last edited by pac.attack76; 04-19-2024 at 09:18 AM. |
#62
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Not soldering these grounds will absolutely corrupt eeproms. I remember changing an eeprom in one of these in warranty for no audio. Two days later it was back. These chassis were new at that time and we had little experience with them. A call to RCA about the failed eeprom was to solder the tuner and heatsink ground tabs. RCA issued a "goldenrod" about this about a week after I ran into this. You could solder the grounds and then get into the service menu and reset the vert height and centering. Normal values are between 0-63 IIRC but sometimes we'd see values that didn't make sense, like numbers in the hundreds or with letters instead of digits. John |
#63
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#64
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The TV may be working normally now, but the next time the ground connections come loose the problem will return and could corrupt the EEPROM chip. I am no expert on these by any means; I only worked on TVs, the old tube-operated ones, as a hobby years ago (my basement was full of them, trash finds, in the '70s) and have absolutely no experience at all with modern solid-state sets. Your best bet would be to look for someone who is well-versed in this type of repair, but as I said, I would at least try resoldering the grounds; this may get the set working again unless the EEPROM chip was damaged by static charges, etc., in which case the only solution would be to replace the chip. In a TV this old (23 years), it may not even be worth repairing; in fact, some repair shops may not even touch it.
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Jeff, WB8NHV Collecting, restoring and enjoying vintage Zenith radios since 2002 Zenith. Gone, but not forgotten. Last edited by Jeffhs; 03-02-2023 at 10:41 AM. |
#65
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It would be the tuner grounds specifically that are causing your issue with the picture even when using AV inputs. The ground to the jungle IC runs through the tuner (stupidly). The tuner is a surface mount affair and is delicate work. You have to remove the tuner cover (soldered down) and then solder the tuner perimeter and several ground pins in the middle of the tuner. There is an alternative if you don't plan to use the tuner - solder a ground wire from the cage around the micro and jungle IC and bypass the tuner directly. I've never done this but if you want to try, the point you need to solder your wire to would be on the lower right corner of the tuner when the board is oriented where the tuner input connector is facing straight up. There is a ground point that has a wire soldered to it on the top side of the board. John |
Audiokarma |
#66
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Ok, in a couple days, I'll get in there and get that done. I mostly use the av and s-video. While I have the board out, would it be advisable to do a "board wash"? It's really filthy.
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#67
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I used to wash boards in the old days strictly for aesthetics. But I would remove *anything* on the board that could trap water. In your case,that would be the flyback and SMPS transformer and any tunable coils, but I don't think your chassis has any. My favorite solution was a product called Parson's sudsy ammonia (I don't know if it's still around). The boards would come out so clean they'd literally shine. I had a hot box built with a small hole to put in a low temperature hair dryer snout and a hole on the top of the box. They'd dry for at least an hour before going back into service. John |
#68
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Alright. If I do, I'll heat dry it, then it'll sit for a few days just in case.
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#69
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Cleaned up everything real good. Everything done but tracking down the focus issue. I'll be getting a probe soon so maybe that'll turn something up. Everything else looks good. I do have one other issue. Only the speaker on the right side is working. Nothing from the left. Going through the audio settings in menu changes nothing.
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#70
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First, go in the customer menu and see if the TV has a balance control. If it does, move it far left or far right and make sure it stops at either extreme. Often, the pointer will run through the stop and appear on the opposite side. Keep moving far left or right until the pointer gets "locked" inside the ends of the balance range. The pointer can often run through the stops several times before you get it centered. That might fix it. John |
Audiokarma |
#71
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#72
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The 169s had issues with leaky caps making the boards conductive and upsetting the audio output ICs causing int sound, squeaks, squeals, and no sound, but I never saw any later RCAs do that, but on the other hand, these are another ten years older, so... John |
#73
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#74
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I've yet to try the audio on this thing. I have a pair of speakers from another set I will try. I've been thinking about the whole focus issue lately. It doesn't start messing up till it warms up. Could it be caps and which ones? I'm thinking on changing some out.
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#75
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In the order of probability, I'd put the socket first, tube second, flyback third. John |
Audiokarma |
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