Here is the '61 CTC11 Wakely from Racine WI

[zenithfan1]

Here is the CTC11 Wakely set that I picked up last summer in Racine WI. Since I have two 11 sets I figured I'd work on them both at the same time. I'm working on recapping the one from MN right now. Anyways, I recapped this one over a short vacation I took from work. Restuffed all the cans, I used the cut them off the chassis method this time, that was a big time saver for sure. I put them back together with J-B weld. I managed to recap the entire set and do the cans in 8 hours. I replaced every brown drop on the chassis. Doing that made the vertical work much better than it did with the brown caps. I may have to check a resistor or two related to the linearity though, I can get it really close but I think it can be better. I powered it up that afternoon, and was greeted with the same
black screen it had when it died a few months ago. (Yeah, I ran it on original parts until it died, sue me ) This time I heard the crackle of HV though so I thought yay! It was only the fact that so many controls were in random positions from cleaning them. I was able to get a nicely converged picture and much better focus. The focus was always soft before. The only issues I'm having with it are the width seems a little short and the chroma has a soft bar of incorrect tint rolling upward all the time. The HOT is on the older side though, I should change it. That may help width. As for the color issue, it can be reduced by turning the Horiz. to the left almost to where it unlocks. The bars never really disappear though. This is what it was doing before the recap, it also still has a bit of dot crawl. It's getting much better but I have to track down all this stuff. I really need go dig out my RCA manual so I can properly check all my voltages, current and resistance readings. The cabinet is another story, I'll concentrate on that after the chassis is all good. Before applying veneer I plan to try and save the original with an artist brush, some paints, lacquer, time and a prayer. If it turns out like crap I won't feel as bad for gluing new stuff over it. It would most likley look the best with veneer but I'd rather it be original if at all possible. Either way, it's going to look nice.
Here are the pics of it, sorry there's so many.
This is what I started with.....yes, that is how I used it (or abused it)



I was able to find some new HV socket cups, I changed them in both 11's




I was able to remove all the cadmium crap off, this pic shows a little still there.

Kinda reminds me of a CTC4 with the top off.

Obligatory nighttime tube shot

Finally a damn screen shot.

[zenithfan1]

PS I didn't type all stupid like that. I copied and pasted and that's what I got.

[Phil Nelson]

You can edit the text in your previous posts. Click the Edit button in the lower right of that post.

Phil Nelson

[zenithfan1]

I know, I'm just too lazy techincally, I could edit yours too Thanks Phil

[DavGoodlin]

Mark, What a great set. There should be no thermal issues with the top off like that. If I did that, my cat would get a nasty surprise if he decides to jump on top for a nap.
The re-cap looks like it helps considering the brown drops are nowhere close to being as troublesome as wax-papers and bumblebees.

I have the blonde version which is also the called Wakely. The cabinet is photo-finish and in good shape. I DID run it with the original parts since 1986 when I got it as a low-hours set, never leaving the room!, until about 5 years ago when it showed signs of impending electrolytic failure. My focus is somewhat squirelly too, very dependent on the brightness setting (beam current).

The model number of mine is 212G837MV
Whats your model number?

[zenithfan1]

Thanks! The top was off only for the pics and while I was working on it. My cat would jump in there too I did a "CTC4" style convergence setup on it like that. This one was full of brown drops and I decided to change every one of them as several were leaky/drifty in the vert out section. It really improved all aspects of the set. The only originals are ceramic disc and the few real orange drops, there was like 5 in there. My other 11 OTOH, is full of orange drops and only has a few brown. I also just got a 7 loaded with paper/wax caps and a lot of others had brown drops. I guess they just used whatever they had at the time. I'm unfamiliar with the focus setup in these, I'm still searching for my RCA manual. Isn't it some type of feedback system that uses that coil slug to tune it. Until I have the schematic in my hand I'm afraid to mess with it much. The recap made it much better though. It only goes out of focus slightly when there is too much of any color on the screen (like text with a red, green or blue background) it will pull in on the sides like it's being loaded down, it's not really blooming but you would think so when you first see it do it. It will bloom slightly with the brightness up but it has to be up beyond where you would set it.

I'd like to see a pic of your Wakely. You made me realize that I do not own one blonde color set. I love brunettes but blonds are beautiful too My model is 212G835MV pretty close, only one number different.

[sampson159]

that picture looks awesome.convergence looks spot on too.beautiful restoration.post more pics of the fabulous picture on this set.i will never tire of seeing them

[zenithfan1]

Hey Ron, Sure! I can post as many as you want. This thing gets used everyday, almost all day long. The weekends it's on almost 20 hours day sometimes Plenty of screen shot opportunities I know it's gets run a lot, but it's a daily driver for a while. I really need to get the chroma section sorted out. That bar of incorrect tint rolling through all the time drives me nuts, it's not really noticeable but it annoys me. I think a cap or tube is leaky/shorted. I changed all the brown drops but there are some original orange drops in the chroma. It did this before the recap too so I know it's not something I did. Any suggestions anyone??

[Electronic M]

I recall from a TV service book a picture of a set with the color really screwed up from a heater-cathode short. Could also be that the color osc. slug is RIGHT at the edge of color synch lock(though when that happened to me it would go in and out of synch during warmup and the first 30minutes on...not really a periodic event like what you describe).

[zenithfan1]

I just cringed a little. I do think the CRT developed a H/K short. It flashes blue sometimes with retrace and showed a short when tapping on the neck while testing last week. It wasn't shorted last year when I got it. I guess it's time for an isolation brightener unless I can put it face down and get it to clear by tapping on it. It always had the odd color issue but the short seems to be something new going on, unless it was always there and is now getting noticeable.

[Electronic M]

I was talking about a signal tube HK short, but it couldn't hurt to try isolating the CRT filament.

[zenithfan1]

I swapped all the chassis tubes already to no avail, I think it's the CRT. That's what I figured too, what can it hurt?

[old_coot88]

Originally Posted by zenithfan1

I just cringed a little. I do think the CRT developed a H/K short. It flashes blue sometimes with retrace and showed a short when tapping on the neck while testing last week. It wasn't shorted last year when I got it. I guess it's time for an isolation brightener unless I can put it face down and get it to clear by tapping on it. It always had the odd color issue but the short seems to be something new going on, unless it was always there and is now getting noticeable.

Yikes! That's a bad omen.
If the jug does have an H-K short, one symptom will be loss of luma. I.e., video information will be gone while chroma is unaffected (since chroma goes in via the grids).
The problem with using an isolation brightener is: added capacitance-to-ground which will smear out fine detail in the pic.

A dirty service switch can mimic a H-K short in the CRT (killing the luma). Give the service switch a squirt of cleaner and work it a few times, just to eliminate that as a possibility.

[miniman82]

At least it's not an AXP...
Which reminds me, FIX YOUR DAMN WINGATE!!! lol

[Electronic M]

You don't have to use the brightener exactly as designed. Most brighteners are just a socket and a base with jumpers between all pins, but the ones for the filament, where the transformer that makes it more than just a socket extender is connected. You could just unsolder the CRT socket filament wires of the set at the point where they are soldered to the chassis and insert the isolation brightener filament transformer there...That way you would get all the isolation and none of the capacitance video smear.