65 maggie

[timmy]

just curious but where on the schematic is Y B where the 3.3 gets its source shows it goes to because im looking at this one here and the 140v and the 280v dont show a YB connection. not important just wondering

[DaveWM]

the 135v source is from the cathode of the audio out.

[timmy]

i tried to somewhat weld that green gun filiment wire on this crt and i went as high as 10 volts and it refused to arc when being tapped. i think the blue arc i seen was when the hv was present when i tapped the neck because now that i think of it and now i know where the filiment wire is that was not making contact, the blue arc was coming from further down in the neck, dont really know why unless there is close to a short in there that didnt show up yet. had nothing to lose.but it still works ok .

[timmy]

well ok im just about done with this set, the 3.3meg is good tested out of circuit the 330k tested .740m close i also checked the 1meg and the 1.2 meg at the audio tube all test good. 126v at one side of the 3.3 and also tried paralling the 3.3 just touching made it alittle darker.

[timmy]

this dark screen is with both the new crt and the older one i put in.

[Username1]

A 330K should not test 740K that is way out of range.....
At worst 20% toll. 330K X .2 (+ -) 66K = 393k to 264K would be
an acceptable range if it's a 20% resistor..... 4th band = toll.
no band =20% silver = 10% gold = 5%. yours is 200%+ off.....

Timmy, Don't mess with the filaments on the picture tube... Parallel filaments you will
not weld back because the current is always being drawn off by the other working
ones, over power the working ones and soon you'll have a completely dead tube....

The arcing you see is most likely something down the tube, mostly because that one
gun has no electron flow.... you're gunna have to let it alone till some good idea comes
along...

.

[timmy]

Originally Posted by Username1

A 330K should not test 740K that is way out of range.....
At worst 20% toll. 330K X .2 (+ -) 66K = 393k to 264K would be
an acceptable range if it's a 20% resistor..... 4th band = toll.
no band =20% silver = 10% gold = 5%. yours is 200%+ off.....

Timmy, Don't mess with the filaments on the picture tube... Parallel filaments you will
not weld back because the current is always being drawn off by the other working
ones, over power the working ones and soon you'll have a completely dead tube....

The arcing you see is most likely something down the tube, mostly because that one
gun has no electron flow.... you're gunna have to let it alone till some good idea comes
along...

.

the 330k tested .740 meg

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by timmy

the 330k tested .740 meg

.740meg=740k=way out of spec for a 330k = replace it!

[Username1]

740K = .740meg. They are the same value....
Your auto-ranging meter just uses that display type....
Best is to use a meter without auto-range and learn it,
rely on yer brain, not a $20. meter to interpret it the right way....

330K Ohm = Orange-Orange-Yellow.
http://www.petervis.com/electronics/...lues/330K.html

.

[Tubejunke]

Originally Posted by Username1

740K = .740meg. They are the same value....
Your auto-ranging meter just uses that display type....
Best is to use a meter without auto-range and learn it,
rely on yer brain, not a $20. meter to interpret it the right way....

That and a few other things are the reason I still like my Simpson analog meter. I get ribbed a lot by techs who find some superiority of their technical skill-set by using devices that think for them to a large degree. I couldn't even get them to use analog when we were testing some potentiometers for bad spots. In short, they didn't want to admit that they couldn't interpret multipliers or read scales. No doubt at all that in the testing of pots that the analog meter is far, far superior; yet perhaps not as accurate in other measurements. Digital and auto-range can be nice as well, but you absolutely must pay attention to detail or really bad results can be the result.

[timmy]

ok was my mistake the resistor 330k tested 339 meg so its ok . so i am at a loss this time now with this set because everything like the silvertone checks ok but the silvertone had a problem and the problem was found but it dont look like this will be found any time soon unless its something so small and easily overlooked like the silvertone it will take time, i guess. maybe its not in the brightness but rather something that affects the brightness.

[Username1]

330K is not equal to 339 meg. Not on this planet....

I like my digital meters, but while they are more precise for some things,
they are not necessarily more accurate. And for things like a quick
cap check, analog wins, bad wiper on a pot, analog wins. And unless
they are specifically rated, I don't trust them on AC other than 60hz,
or RMS voltage.

.

[timmy]

for some reason my dvom sometimes measures in k or meg and i will sometimes check another of the same value to make sure. a 500k would read .500 meg or so ? ?
well the only thing i have is this fluke and its been reliable so far and that .339 i left the point out in the last post. if it came up just 339 then i would think its bad.

[Username1]

Timmy, you need to be precise when you write about stuff here as well....
500K and .500 meg are the same thing, but 500 meg is not equal to 500K.

When you write a number here all we can assume is that that number is exactly
what you mean.... That is often why when someone here asks you what some
reading is, we need a numerical answer, not "it's ok". Things here are often read
by 20 people, and some may get a different idea on the cause of a problem if
a number is given, and each has a reference like a schematic, tube pins, etc.

If people can't easily follow you it will be hard to come up with a solution
to these problems....

.

[timmy]

maybe i dont have a brightness problem i say this because if i were able to set up the R G B drives without having to raise up the bias to just about max then it may be bright enough because these drives do determine brightness to a degree and with the bias down or even half way up i dont get anything, cant see the R G B lines to setup the right way. so maybe there is an issue with these drives because the green is the brightest blue is second and red is the last so if i were able to set the drives higher then i think this would cure the problem but i already checked every resistor related to those drives along with all the power supply resistors, all the high wattage resistors and a few carbon resistors. the voltage at the HOT i think is alittle high although i dont have a spec of what it should be its at around 175 volts if i remember correctly but i did write it down. if i compare to other sets it seems high. most times i found that green always comes up stronger but with this set i dont see it until the bias is just about maxed. so maybe something related to those drives.