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  #16  
Old 02-21-2011, 05:09 PM
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miniman82 miniman82 is offline
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I like how the bezel on that one is green, just like the CRT.
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2011, 05:51 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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oh yes much fun, I have to say this hobby keeps me sane this time of year.

I did manage to check that one CRT grid coupling cap (it was very dark in color unlike the other two) sure enough it was weak on the cap tester. Prob would not have made a diff but what the heck. when I get some time I am going to go thru my pulls and see if I can find some tube for the shorted ones.

The HV has a leak from one of the HV tube filament leads to the HV case. I am going to just get some plastic and dress it away for a temp trial.
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:01 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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cleand up some gunk off the front bezel, looks better already, looked like years of smokers tar accumlation. Got most of the tubes from my stash still need a few more, I am sure I have them, just have to dig. I am trying to use up my stash of pulls, saving the NOS since they are boxed and neatly stored.

I am tempted to get some silicone caulk and carefully coat the filament leads around where it was arcing. It would be easy to get at since it was in the middle of the lead coming down from the HV cup (mounted on top RCA style).
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:09 AM
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freakaftr8 freakaftr8 is offline
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THats what I did on a heathkit GR-295. Silicone works like magic!
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2011, 11:06 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I will stop by the store and pick some up. I always end up with a tube in a gun thats solid, maybe I can find a small squeeze size. I really dig the way this thing looks, for a combo its quite pleasing.
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  #21  
Old 02-22-2011, 12:15 PM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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Ill pick you up a few feet of that wire next time Im at the electronics store.

You could pull those two wires out of the socket and put several layers of heat shrink over the bad spot but even that is tacky.
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  #22  
Old 02-22-2011, 04:01 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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got the last of the tubes, just have to find a few minutes to put it all back in and see how it goes....
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  #23  
Old 02-22-2011, 08:51 PM
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I did not even check the 3A3, swapped in one from a working set, and I got a full raster 25kv at about 185ma

going to check the one just to see how it checks out.

Almost time for the rockford files will be hanging it up for a while

checked it the 3A3 had zero emissions, did not see the filament light up.

Last edited by DaveWM; 02-22-2011 at 09:34 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:29 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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1st screen shot. The tint is off but the control works I just did not bother to set it correctly. this pic was taken in a VERY well lit garage, so that old CRT still has some life in it.
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File Type: jpg 1st screen shot.jpg (38.2 KB, 115 views)
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  #25  
Old 02-23-2011, 12:00 AM
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miniman82 miniman82 is offline
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Congrats, looks like it will end up being a decent performer!
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  #26  
Old 02-23-2011, 10:14 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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185ma.@ 25KV. That is a healthy sign indeed. Back in the day, if we could get it down to 200ma. with good width and regulation, it was considered a good portent of longevity.
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  #27  
Old 02-23-2011, 11:36 AM
ctc17 ctc17 is offline
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wow and the color works without having to change the crystal, go through 5 different 6gh8s or tweak on the coils.
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  #28  
Old 02-23-2011, 11:44 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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what odd is I dont really know why I had the orig high current, the only thing I did was to replace the HOT coupling cap (the .01 tested a bit weak on my cap tester but not much just a little, certainly not enough to resolve this)

I think what was going on was the HV filament lead was shorting to the chassis, when I pulled it out an bench tested iit I could see/hear the arc.

after dressing it away from the chassis (short term fix) the arc resolved and the HOT current came down. I assume this was the base problem with the cathode current.

focus on that 1st pic was not very good. I plan to check the focus tube (1v2) and will check the focus voltage at the CRT.
and need to check the contrast control to see if its effective, maybe a weak Y signal (has all the orig eletrolytics, so I was thinking maybe the 12BY7 cathode bypass cap). I have seen low Y result in loss of detail.

finally I have to figure as bad as the cateract is, that has got to be hurting the pic some.
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  #29  
Old 02-23-2011, 07:28 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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well now that it has base line working status, I will pull the chassis and check all the can caps. I am pretty sure the main filter caps on the B+ are ok as the ripple was normal, but I know some of the other sections are ofter used for bypassing or decoupling and can cause odd problems. Considering its age I think its prudent to at least test them while I have it all apart. That will also allow me to do a through cleaing of all the dust and crude inside the cabinet. I will also clean and lube the tuner while its out.
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  #30  
Old 02-23-2011, 09:51 PM
joemama99 joemama99 is offline
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Dave that set is sweet.I can't understand how you find all these,as I am in Florida too,and have never found a roundie in the wild .Great find!
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