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  #16  
Old 05-09-2015, 10:50 AM
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I hadn't watched this set since January. Then last night I went to turn it on, and the sound came up, … but then no picture and the sound of something arcing

The CTC-10 I used to have did this once, and it just turned out to be that the wire wound around the flyback to supply filament voltage to the HV rectifier tube had a hole burned right through it. I'm hoping it's the same problem, or something similarly easy to fix. I have next week completely free, so I'm hoping to fix this and at least get started on that Admiral 17T12 I picked up.

Last edited by Adam; 05-09-2015 at 10:54 AM.
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2015, 11:02 AM
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It's funny how these sets don't like to sit for too long without being used. Since I am gone at sea for 2 or 3 months at a time, it's normal for me to come home and find at set out of whack the first time I fire it up... even though it may have played flawlessly during the whole time I was home previously.
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  #18  
Old 05-09-2015, 11:17 AM
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And the color sets seem to do that more than the B&W's.

Since I've moved to Lansing, I've kept 1 TV in the living room, 1 in the bedroom, a few in the basement, but most of them in one of the other bedrooms. Since January, I didn't have any of those wired up to anything. Yesterday, I got a 16-way splitter and hooked them all up to a DVD player through one of those B-T agile modulators. They all fired up and worked (12 B&W's and 1 other color) except the CTC-9.

Last edited by Adam; 05-09-2015 at 11:23 AM.
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2015, 01:37 AM
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Well, I'm mostly certain that the problem was just that the wire going to the 2nd anode fell out of its socket. But I wasn't entirely sure I didn't pull it out when I went to check it, so I pulled the chassis to check that wire wound around the flyback that went bad on my CTC-10 anyway. It was fine.

Since I had the chassis out, I thought I would try and fix another minor problem it had: When the picture got bright it would pull in on the left side and go out of focus. I swapped every capacitor that had anything to do with HV regulation, which fixed it. I don't know which one it was, I didn't want to do them one at a time because its a big deal to pull the chassis, carry it down to the basement to work on it, carry it back upstairs, and reinstall it. I only wanted to do that once. Usually those old brown colored "orange drop like" capacitors are never bad, but at least one of them must have been. I also swapped out the damper tube, it tested fine, but I could hear something rattling around in there when I shook it.

Before I'm done with it, I still have to figure out why vol down button on the remote started turning it up. And I'm going to touch up the convergence. I have to get another mirror. On the average I probably only converge one color set a year, but somehow I seem to also break those mirrors once a year too. I like to get one of those tall rectangular ones so I can just set it on the floor opposite the TV.
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2015, 10:37 AM
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I see I'm not the only one who ends up breaking my set adjusting mirrors! :-)
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  #21  
Old 05-20-2015, 08:15 PM
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I got my new set adjusting mirror and this set is basically fixed.

The picture looks even better than it did before. (I'll post some pics later.) There's still one minor issue, the red bkd control is completely ineffective. But it is more-or-less where it should be anyway, a little too high (but only really noticeable when there's a completely black picture.) Next time I have the chassis out, I'll look into this.

As far as the remote goes, I went and did the alignment procedure, peaking all those coils again. And now 9 times out of 10 when you press vol down it goes down and not up. I had some tubes test weak, but swapping them for new tubes made no difference, so I put the originals back in.

The strangest problem is that when you turn the set on, as it is warming up, usually right as the picture is coming up, the vol control goes up by itself. But I think I found the cause - I was messing with the horiz hold and had turned it nearly all the way one way until it lost sync, and then the vol control moved up again, by itself. I did this several times and it happens consistently at the same position of the horiz hold control. I know how in some sets you can hear a high pitched ringing at the frequency of the horizontal oscillator, the yoke vibrating maybe? I'm guessing that when the set warms up the horiz oscillator hits on exactly that same frequency and it happens. It doesn't really make sense because you need 43.25KC to turn the vol control, and I don't see how you would get that out of the horizontal going at around 15-16KC, but I think that's what's happening. Maybe it happens when the horizontal is down around 14.4 (43.25/3)?

Last edited by Adam; 05-20-2015 at 08:26 PM.
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  #22  
Old 05-25-2015, 10:25 PM
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Google Fourier series. The short version is that most complex waveforms like the horizontal sawtooth, and square waves used in digital systems are merely the mathematical sum of the sinusoidal even and odd harmonics of the(and the)fundadmental frequency sinusoid. And the lower harmonics tend to have significant power in saw tooth and square waves.
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