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  #16  
Old 03-20-2017, 06:23 PM
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MadMan MadMan is offline
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Well... idk. I mean, I guess... but do you know what the 3rd wire is for? It's connected to a spark gap on the pcb (and some other stuff), and when the unit did work under my observation, it was sparking across the gap. Which I thought was odd, but idk. Maybe it uses it as feedback for when it needs to terminate the oven ignition. In which case, it'd be a coil output and there would be no continuity between it and any other lead.

But I'm just guessing here.

Also, I hooked it back up to my jug and it decided to work for like 3 sparks, and even so, it only sparked across the pcb spark gap.
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  #17  
Old 03-20-2017, 11:11 PM
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I fixed it! TLDR: I'm a dumbass.

While I was out today, I did some soul searching. Given that all the components besides the resistors were checking out, I resolved to test every resistor on the damn thing. A bit of a challenge for me, without a schematic, because I'm color blind. Although my mom and sisters had trouble with the color bands as well, so I feel a little better about myself. Before I bothered taking them off the board, I tested them all in circuit, and they all turned up just fine.

Scratching my head, I thought to myself, if all parts of the unit are good, and I'm testing it correctly, that leaves only one possibility: the test equipment is bad. It occured to me that my alligator test leads are the work of my much-younger self, and yeah, some of them just had the wires wrapped loosely around the clips. But hey, they should work, but I soldered them all anyway. On the very last one, as the iron hit it, the wire fell off, the copper having been broken and only attached by the insulation which melted away.

And of course, I only figured this out after I gave in and ordered a new unit. FML. Oh well, I have plan for the new unit. I have a 1950s Roper I plan on restoring, and I want to eliminate the pilot lights. This unit is perfect because it provides two igniters for burners (that spark continuously) and one for the oven (that sparks until it senses flame).

Thanks for all the input anyway guys!

Last edited by MadMan; 03-20-2017 at 11:22 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-21-2017, 12:28 AM
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jr_tech jr_tech is offline
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Glad you got it fixed!

I recently had a similar test lead problem that confounded the problem on a circuit that I was trouble shooting. Cheap, poorly made clip leads from China were only crimped (some poorly), not soldered.... intermittent junk!

jr
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  #19  
Old 03-21-2017, 11:04 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr_tech View Post
Glad you got it fixed!

I recently had a similar test lead problem that confounded the problem on a circuit that I was trouble shooting. Cheap, poorly made clip leads from China were only crimped (some poorly), not soldered.... intermittent junk!

jr
I bought a couple packs of Chinese made clip leads from one of the peddlers, that sells import products, at one of the hamfests.
Most of them were O/C. It seems that they were crimped so hard that the conductor was broken.
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  #20  
Old 03-21-2017, 11:11 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
I fixed it! TLDR: I'm a dumbass.

While I was out today, I did some soul searching. Given that all the components besides the resistors were checking out, I resolved to test every resistor on the damn thing. A bit of a challenge for me, without a schematic, because I'm color blind. Although my mom and sisters had trouble with the color bands as well, so I feel a little better about myself. Before I bothered taking them off the board, I tested them all in circuit, and they all turned up just fine.

Scratching my head, I thought to myself, if all parts of the unit are good, and I'm testing it correctly, that leaves only one possibility: the test equipment is bad. It occured to me that my alligator test leads are the work of my much-younger self, and yeah, some of them just had the wires wrapped loosely around the clips. But hey, they should work, but I soldered them all anyway. On the very last one, as the iron hit it, the wire fell off, the copper having been broken and only attached by the insulation which melted away.

And of course, I only figured this out after I gave in and ordered a new unit. FML. Oh well, I have plan for the new unit. I have a 1950s Roper I plan on restoring, and I want to eliminate the pilot lights. This unit is perfect because it provides two igniters for burners (that spark continuously) and one for the oven (that sparks until it senses flame).

Thanks for all the input anyway guys!
The last gas range, I bought was a Tappan in 1992. The ignitor was only for the top burners. The oven was lit by a glow plug type device in series with the main gas valve. It was glowing all the time the gas valve was open.
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  #21  
Old 03-21-2017, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
The last gas range, I bought was a Tappan in 1992. The ignitor was only for the top burners. The oven was lit by a glow plug type device in series with the main gas valve. It was glowing all the time the gas valve was open.
Yeah, that's the modern method, they call safety valve. Which makes sense honestly. If the igniter is shot, the gas valve won't open. The tricky thing with those is, if the glow plug is worn (high resistance), but not broken, the valve won't open, but you can't really tell what's wrong because the glow plug still visibly works.
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