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  #46  
Old 09-08-2012, 07:28 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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will get pics as soon as I get it all back together. CRT is back in, setup the HV/purity. Still need to check the HOT cathode current (did it when I 1st got it but will check one more time). I noticed some arcing down on the pwr board around the varistor, Not sure what that was all about. guess I need to pull the chassis again and check the solder joints. The horz has some thing odd going on, I will get wiggles in vert lines sometimes, not others. Tried adj AGC no help (it works it just does not eliminate the problem). I may need to scope the sync pulse and look at it when the problem show so see if the issue is at the sync or after. What bothers me is its not constant just some scenes with vert lines will get the wiggles while other times not. I have a feeling its some video getting past the sync sep tube.

Last edited by DaveWM; 09-08-2012 at 07:48 PM.
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  #47  
Old 09-08-2012, 11:20 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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the cap across the osc coil tested a bet leaky and weak, so I replace it as well a .0047 paper in ceramic tube cap. put it all back, arcing gone on variester, hmm no pic, very dark pic,AGC barely does anything, poor sync lock, WTF....

I looked around where I had just checked some resistors in the sync sep circuit where I had to take them out of circuit (PCB), careful looking shows very small solder bridge right around where I was working. Cleared that out but its getting late so I am just going to call it quits for tonight. I am starting to dislike this set
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  #48  
Old 09-09-2012, 11:34 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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well that was it, the solder bridge must have been fouling the AGC. the new cap seems to have made the horz osc a tiny bit better as far as the ability to hold lock with the horz control. Still seems to have that problem with hard vertical lines, so think I will try a couple more things tube wise, then the scope and if that does not do it I will just pack it up and forget it.
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  #49  
Old 09-09-2012, 02:59 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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don't know what the deal was with the horz pulling, I put the DVD box on it rather than the OTA from a modulator and it seems fine now. the line pairing is settling down as well. I will get some pics soon now, just have to take a break, too hot out in the garage. I decided to leave the brightner off, it has a better pic with it but not too bad with out. Plus I could not for the life of me figure out a good place to put it. I tried zip tie under the CRT neck but then the bump out would not fit. There was just no good place for it.
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  #50  
Old 09-09-2012, 05:15 PM
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AiboPet AiboPet is offline
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Make sure your source INTO the Blonder Tongue (or whatever)...is getting a good connection with decent RCA cables. I sometimes have to pay attention that the inputs to my little transmitter are not picking up hum bars from all the other stupid stuff I have in the same cabinet. I used to get all worried I was having filter problems in one of the sets....only to find out I was having issues with the source material.

I know it seems a bit elementary....but I've overlooked this a couple times before and JUMPED to the "worst case" conclussion.
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  #51  
Old 09-09-2012, 07:05 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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pic is better than this, the motion added some bluriness
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File Type: jpg 000_0006.jpg (46.7 KB, 196 views)
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  #52  
Old 09-10-2012, 01:50 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Under the heading of not leaving well enough alone, I was thinking about the horz eff coil setting last nite. the fact that the dip took place with a large bit of the slug out of the coil (I did drive it down it never got better) I got to thinking maybe one of the 3 caps that connect across the coil may be bad. I checked the .0022 that connect directly across it on the board, but I never checked the two .068 that are connected below the chassis. So even though I have it all back together I think I must pull it out again and check those. I generally just clip on lead, test, and then use a pig tail to reconnect if ok.
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  #53  
Old 09-14-2012, 02:54 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I have a slight purity issue on the bottom, tends toward greenish, I think its the yoke as it droops quite a bit due to plastic fatigue. here is a better pic with flesh tones. I ended up going without the brightner.
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Last edited by DaveWM; 09-14-2012 at 04:13 PM.
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  #54  
Old 09-14-2012, 04:58 PM
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wkand wkand is offline
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GE Roundie

Really nice job with this set, Dave. Very patient troubleshooting! I did not especially care for the screen image of Arizona beating my Seahawks, though! LOL!!

Very Nice set!!
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  #55  
Old 09-14-2012, 05:23 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Thanks, it was fun. I never got the eff coil figured out (why it has to be so far out for the dip) I checked the caps that are tied to it thinking something was wrong there, but they all checked out. I have some other yokes that I could use to see if I could improve the purity but its not that bad and its hot out in the garage so I will give it a rest. Besides the CTC-5 I have a very nice sylvania roundie console that needs to have the lens popped off (its good to go besides that). So I have others that need attention as well.
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  #56  
Old 09-14-2012, 09:50 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I putzed around with the purity a bit, the red blob was just a touch off center so I recentered and then reset the yoke, seems better now (green on the bottom is pretty much gone).
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  #57  
Old 12-09-2012, 06:44 PM
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its been a while so I decided to fire this one up again. The tint range is not very effective, the flesh tones don't really change much, the greens go from weak green to weak blue but not by much. the Tint also seems to cause the color to intensify in one direction, like its change the amplitude of the reference as well as the phase. I was thinking of putting my scope on it to see, but I would rather just use my vector scope, but I have it in storage so will have to put that off. I would like to see if the tint control is increasing the petals as well as rotating them.

This set has the pot for a tint control, so it uses a variactor diode, rather than just a variable cap for tint.

any one have any exp with variactor diodes as far as failure modes? that is do they ever become less effective with age and use or is it an all or nothing kind of thing?
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  #58  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
I have a slight purity issue on the bottom, tends toward greenish, I think its the yoke as it droops quite a bit due to plastic fatigue. here is a better pic with flesh tones. I ended up going without the brightner.
with the yoke drooping i use flat card board at the end of the yoke and this cures that and it dont conduct emf.
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  #59  
Old 02-15-2013, 06:58 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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finally got the vectorscope on this, and again while it can produce ok face tones the green just was not there. the vectorscope showed what looked like the petals laying down sideways, I tweaked the transformer in the phasing circuit and after about 3/4 turn the flower stood upright and bingo nice greens.

I hint that something is not right is when you get decent flesh tones, yet the tint control does not do much in the way of adjusting.

don't settle for brownish greens, and don't go nuts trying to improve greens with drive and background controls. I will get the Wiz of Oz on it later for a nice screen shot.
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  #60  
Old 02-15-2013, 09:38 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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here are some shots with the green (and tint) working now..
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File Type: jpg 112_4909.jpg (44.7 KB, 117 views)
File Type: jpg 112_4903.jpg (65.1 KB, 111 views)
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