#16
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It sounds like a good plan. I also am getting a product called "Super Corona Dope" apparantly it is a product meant for very high voltage stuff like what I am working with.
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#17
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Ok well, I cleaned up the connector, the plastic nipple cup for the HV tube, applied the corona dope generously ect. But still having the same issue of arcing in the HV metal box. To be fair I did not directly witness it, only saw the flashing coming out from the translucent plastic tube holder for the HV rect tube 3DC3 which hangs upside down weirdly.
Flyback physically looks fine but I am starting to wonder if the damper and/or the hv rect tube are bad as well. I read the damper tube if bad can actually kill the horizontal output tube too. The first tube that was arcing internally was the horizonal output tube which i replaced with a NOS one and that issue had went away which is when this new issue has started. Any overt signs to look for with a bad damper or HV rect. It is just weird to me why it is arcing still. Would it be worth getting a known good damper and HV rect. tube and swapping just to see what happens? The arcing seems to happen within seconds of the tv being turned on. All tubes do glow. |
#18
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Apparently you cleaned and insulated to cap connector, but didn't do anything around the base of the tube? If that's correct, do an inspection of the base for problems.
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#19
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Take the whole thing apart. Clean the cup, socket, wires with 91% alky.
Look for pin holes & carbon traces on the cup. Check the filament winding also. It is at full HV potential & a common place to arc. Last be sure the HV is in spec. If it runs high it will start arcing soon again & cause other headaches. 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
#20
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Quote:
Also what in the heck is this bare copper wire that is dangling from the side of the HV box? https://imgur.com/a/aD58QCV |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Wire looks like its to dress the wire bundle, yoke wires ?
Top cap should pop off. Cup would need to be drilled off. Do last if needed. Try removing the cover & running it in a blacked out room to see arc. Set has a focus divider, white block behind the cage. Those can crack & arc. Zeno |
#22
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Quote:
https://imgur.com/a/UgnZ2GO |
#23
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There is clearly brown greasy looking crud on the socket.
See if you can clean it up with a swab & 91% alky. Be sure to discharge HV first but the divider probably bleeds it off anyhows. You may want to search e-bay for a NOS HV cup. 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
#24
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Will do. Any advice about the metal rivets? Is it avoidable to drill them off or is that they only way if I need to replace the HV cup?
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#25
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Quote:
There's several ways to remove rivits such as drilling, grinding the heads off with a Dremel (good for cases where you want to temporarily remove a rivited item), cutting the shaft of the rivit if the item it's securing is gone and it's loose in it's hole. I'd leave the socket attached for cleaning.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Quote:
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#27
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A bit of an update. I tried using iso to clean up the gunk on the HV cup for the tube and also used a generous amount of super corona dope. I am still having the arcing issue however. I am not sure if this is because of a grounding issue, the voltage being too high, a bad CRT, flyback, transformer, or if there is still some hole somewhere? I am honestly stumped right now.
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#28
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Quote:
CRT grounding can be checked by eye and by resistance. You can investigate the source of the sound further by getting a few feet of insulative plastic or rubber hose sticking one end in your ear and probing around for the loudest arcing sound with the other end like how a doctor would use a stethoscope. Lastly don't put corona dope on something that you haven't gotten completely spotless. Dirt can be conductive, stains in the plastic can be carbon tracking, and carbon tracking must be completely removed before corona dope or silicone is laid down (even if it means taking a Dremel to the plastic and grinding it away) or else the arcing will just penetrate the thin layer of dope and resume it's normal carbon track. When Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol fails I next use GoofOff to clean off residual dirt....That stuff will slowly melt the outermost layer of plastic or rubber so if GoofOff don't get it clean it's Dremel time.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#29
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While I was cleaning the tube sockets in the tv, I noticed a rattling sound from the horizontal output tube and noticed a loose piece of metal or filament was loose and rolling around. I attached a photo of it.
This is pretty frustrating because this horizontal output tube was purchased recently by me to replace the bad horizontal output tube the tv had with it.. The horizontal tube was not originally making a rattling sound nor had any loose bits in it when I had put it into the tv a month ago. What could have happened? Could it have been vibrations or just bad luck? The tv was sitting on an old hardwood floor and vibrations travel easily through the floor when one walks around the house. I am guessing this means the tube is bad or is unsafe to use now and I should get yet another replacement? It looks like a little metal "tab" instead of a filament though. https://imgur.com/a/ChYo70o Last edited by Lain94; 12-14-2022 at 05:59 PM. |
#30
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I can't really tell what it is. If you think it's metal then it probably is a danger. If it looks like glass or mica wafer (insulator materials) I usually keep running the tube...A chunck of insulator won't hurt anything, but a conductor can short things.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
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