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#1
01-29-2008, 12:26 PM
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1977 Zenith Chromacolor II A Very Modern Zenith 
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#2
01-30-2008, 12:55 PM
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Hello Ian: I did some checking about caps. I bought replacements for the doubler circuit from Allied when I did my CTC-4 last year. They currently have axial caps rated at 200 mfd@300 volts for $8.08 each, 259 pieces in stock. Check their prices on other values and compare with other vendors. The allied stock number is 852-0039. The CDE part number is TC594. These will work for the low voltage doubler. I used a variety of sources for the other caps, including JUST RADIOS in Ontario Canada. Service is prompt and hassle free.
For the other cans, I used a combination of axial and radial, as space permitted. These chassis don't have much room to spare, as compared to later ones. You can locate the power supply caps around the chassis, while being careful of signal bypass considerations. If you take your time and think out each replacement location, it will work out well. Hope I can offer help again. Kevin
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stromberg6
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#3
01-30-2008, 06:04 PM
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Ian:
What I found to be the easiest when I restore CTC-4s is to restuff the electrolytics. That solves the problem of addind terminal strips in an already tight space. The nice thing about the CTC-4 cans is that they have the cardboard sleeve on them and they can be carefully removed. You can then cut off the can just above the large rim around the base and mount the new caps inside. You can then glue the sleeve back on without reinstalling the metal can. This makes a nice need appearance under the chassis, If you do this just be carefull when moving the chassis around so as not to bump the soft cardboard cans. Steve
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#4
01-30-2008, 06:52 PM
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1977 Zenith Chromacolor II A Very Modern Zenith
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#5
01-30-2008, 08:32 PM
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Hi Ian,
The heat from the hair dryer will soften the material enough for it to let go of the glass, that was my experience with the CT-100. The black goo won't drip or run, it should just soften and allow the glass to be pulled away. Also I should have said that the hair dryer should not be set to high. Low or possibly medium should be OK. I chose the hair dryer as opposed to a heat gun because there is more control with the hair dryer, and I feared there might be a disaster with the heat gun. Keep the hair dryer moving as you warm the glass. I beleive that seal around the glass was there to keep dust out and prevent any noise or vibration. I guess after 50 plus years it has turned into goo. You'll have to decide what to replace it with but that will come later. I think your idea of using the puller along with heat is interesting. Please keep us posted on how it all works out. Best of luck! Gilbert
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I don't know anything about ignorance and I could care less about apathy. www.galaxymoonbeamnightsite.com
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#6
01-31-2008, 09:22 AM
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radio63 has the right idea. I used this exact method to get the front glass off of myctc4. It took about 30 minutes to get the glass hot enough for the rubber to soften. I carefully pryed at the top edge until it started to let go and then worked my way down both sides until the whole thing was free. Be carfull not to pry too hard or you could break the glass.
Congratulation on such a RARE find. It is hard to believe that sets of this rarity are still lurking around in someones basement or attic.
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Vacuum tubes are used in Wisconsin to help heat your house. New Web Site under developement ME http://AntiqueTvGuy.com
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