#151
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just take your time, take a lot of pics, go slow and be gentle when moving around the chassis. The wires are very old and quite brittle, esp all the connections to the tuner and pots located near the tuner. Its easy to break one. Note the strain reliefs with lots of pics so you can get them back where they belong. I assume you know about how the tuner mounts to the back of the chassis (if its the hard wired in kind) for servicing out of the set.
becare hooking and unhooking up the speaker, its easy to break off the little term connectors on the speaker, same goes for the wires that attach to the transformer. Just remember there is not rush, better to go slow and easy, respect your elders that set has been around a long time. |
#152
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I forgot to mention this. When I turn the fine tuning all the way to the max to get color I just get barberpolling on my color bars. What causes this and how could I fix it in the future?
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
#153
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video pls demonstrate.
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#154
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AWG61TAIHg go to 13:24 looks identical to what I have.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
#155
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That chroma issue is a result of the chroma reference oscillator being off frequency. ID the chroma osc. coil, insert a plastic diddle stick, with color bar pattern on screen, turn slug in direction that minimizes vertical color stripes, and keep going until bars synch up and each bar has it's own color separate (don't worry if the yellow bar is purple or something like that the hue/tint control should fix that).
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#156
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do the colors work ok with reg programing from a DVD or converter box? or does this only happen with a color bar generator?
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#157
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I do not remember it working on tv stations... But that was before I put some caps in the main chassis.
__________________
Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
#158
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before any tweeking you should try it with the video source you plan to be watching, not a color bar generator.
diddle stick drift is a common problem. |
#159
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Should I try it now even with the filter caps not restuffed?
__________________
Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
#160
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just stay on one problem at a time. you need to get the filter cans stuff, that should help with the B+
That should help with the Vert height That should help with the vert lin setup Then you do a purity Then you do a convergence Then you do a grey scale Then you can worry about color issues, you need a good B&W before color, color is the LAST thing on the list. |
Audiokarma |
#161
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Ok, just got the caps in. I guess I should start sawing the filter caps?
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
#162
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Ok got two done now for the doubler cap. My question is does the cap need to be grounded to one of the can tabs or not grounded at all? Considering the whole can is live when on.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
#163
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Ok decided not to ground the doubler cap. I get a raster but I cant get any signal to come in and the screen will be bright then go very dim for a few seconds and then go back to full brightness
__________________
Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring) RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored) RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored) CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring) |
#164
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pictures of the work done esp the cardboard covered cap, video of the current issue.
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#165
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Sounds like you messed up your doubler wiring. In a doubler circuit at least one cap's can will NOT be grounded, but rather will connect to a wire....Make sure you connect the negative of the replacement to that can wire and not to chassis. Recheck your wiring against the schematic before and after you fix this.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
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