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  #16  
Old 02-19-2013, 01:51 PM
Geist Geist is offline
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Hi All;
Sorry to hear about the filament.. Maybe you should have gotten the old Dentist tools and been on your way to rebuilding your own filament, with it.. Since you are so good at everything else you do, tv's, speakers, radio's etc..
THANK YOU marty
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:01 PM
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If only it were that easy. There's also a bit of damage on the top where someone must have spilled a drink. I figure I'll try to just refinish the top.


The seller also had a nice box of new and used tubes. Almost all useful late 40s / 50s TV and radio tubes.
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:06 PM
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Very '60's looking set Bob! That'll be loads of fun to watch vintage classic shows on when it's up and working.
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  #19  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:11 PM
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Thanks, I think so too. Oh, I almost forgot to mention that I powered it up and I have sound and HV
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  #20  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:21 PM
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I read somewhere about rubbing walnuts on a water stain...

GE, the power supply is un-stoppable just like a Westinghouse...both true to thier electrical distribution equipment roots.
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  #21  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DavGoodlin View Post
I read somewhere about rubbing walnuts on a water stain...

GE, the power supply is un-stoppable just like a Westinghouse...both true to thier electrical distribution equipment roots.
Unfortunately, it's not a water stain - the finish is actually gone. I know that can happen with alcohol on a shellac finish, but I suspect this is lacquer so who knows what was spilled.

I was pleased to see a proper power transformer and 5U4 rectifier rather than a hot chassis selenium voltage doubler
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Last edited by bandersen; 02-19-2013 at 03:42 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:33 PM
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wa2ise wa2ise is offline
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Originally Posted by DavGoodlin View Post
I know where a fan like that still is being used, I just may need to force an upgrade...
The VFW hall we rent out for our model railroad club has one of these fans, with a 20 foot power cord. It's really powerful.
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  #23  
Old 02-19-2013, 06:31 PM
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Those are sure interesting and different sets. I think they also had one model that you could actually remove the portable TV from the console if you wanted to take it to another room.

If you connect your meter to the filament pins and set it on the audible continuity range and tap the neck and you hear short beeps you may be able to weld the filament back together. I have done it with success using a 40vdc supply that is current limited to 1 amp. Tap the neck and when the filament welds, the current sense circuit kicks in and reduces the voltage and limits the current. I have done it twice and the fix has held. Not sure if it matters but I also wired in a 47mfd electrolytic in parallel to the supply to add a little extra kick. You've got nothing to loose.
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  #24  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:33 PM
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Thats one neat looking set Bob, the styling is very much like some of our NZ native built TV's
Looking at the top dual concentric knob thats not missing, I recognized it straight away as it looks to be identical to the knobs used on some Philips b/w sets made in NZ. Heres the link to a Philips TV on my site showing the same controls - http://nzvintagetvradio.blogspot.co....z23cz327a.html I can take a better up close shot of these controls if it helps.

Hope you can find a CRT for the GE, its worth saving I reckon

Cheers Glen
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  #25  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:57 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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It's dead - open filament. I do have a 21ESP4 or a 21CEP4 I could perhaps use though
I picked them up for some Predicta Tandem sets with nearly dead CRTs, but I would like to see this set live again.
I thought it had a rebuilt CRT, because of the aquadag spray job.
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  #26  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:57 PM
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If the heater's open I wonder if it's also gone to air?
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  #27  
Old 02-20-2013, 01:10 PM
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If the heater's open I wonder if it's also gone to air?
Perhaps. I'll pull out the set once I get some service info and take a closer look. I figure I can use a little 8YP4 while pondering the CRT situation.


I just finished scanning the docs.

Here's the original receipt from January, 1959 for $386.25. The hardware store where it was purchases is just a few block from where I picked up the set.


It's made from genuine walnut.


Here's a page from the owners manual showing the knobs,.


UHF operation
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Last edited by bandersen; 02-20-2013 at 01:14 PM.
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  #28  
Old 02-20-2013, 02:05 PM
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I need a couple more of these to make the set complete. (Actually, three would be nice as this one has a chip, but I'm not greedy )
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  #29  
Old 02-21-2013, 07:26 PM
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Does anyone have data for a 21ESP4 CRT ? All I know about it is the pinout from the radiomuseum. The dimensions look right for the GE and the filament specs match, but I'm not sure about the HV and grid voltages. Thanks.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_21esp4.html
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  #30  
Old 02-22-2013, 09:08 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Does anyone have data for a 21ESP4 CRT ? All I know about it is the pinout from the radiomuseum. The dimensions look right for the GE and the filament specs match, but I'm not sure about the HV and grid voltages. Thanks.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_21esp4.html
I looked at my GE service manuals. The M5 chassis used the 21ESP4 CRT.
The ES, looks like it's good for a little more high voltage.
I would try it.
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