#16
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The CBS-Hytron picture tubes from same era also had a metal bell, did they hold vacuum better?
Meanwhile, the CBS Colortron was all-glass! ..as was Dr Ernest Lawrence's Chromatron! Last edited by NewVista; 11-04-2018 at 07:41 AM. |
#17
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Quote:
A 10BP4 has the exact same amount of populated pins as your tester needs to test a tube. https://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_10bp4.html You need the two heater pins (1 and 12) on either side of the key on the bakelite center locator 'pin', Cathode pin 11, G1 pin2, and G2 pin 10... Those wires are color coded on any normal color CRT harness as heater (Brown or sometimes black), Cathode (yellow with stripe the same color (R,G,or B) as the gun being driven), G1 (solid color the same color as the gun being driven), and G2 (White with stripe the same color as gun being driven). I color coded my leads to match a standard color CRT harness (with only a red gun) then added tags to the leads so I would be certain to remember what each lead is meant to go to. I actually used that crude adaptor to test my 15GP22. I had to switch off twice and swap the Cathode(K), G1 and G2 leads to the other color guns but it did the job fine. PS: Sorry for the slow reply I've been in swapmeet mode since ~noon yesterday.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 11-04-2018 at 09:08 PM. |
#18
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Did Flickr Go Ransom?
Tom............Your last photos did not share with me. Why was that?
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#19
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Quote:
I now need to delete stuff from Photobucket to make room, create a new Flickr account, or go shopping for a new free image host....
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#20
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I made the adapter and crossed my fingers...
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Audiokarma |
#21
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The first was the red gun. The next two are the blue then green guns!
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#22
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Can you get a better photo of the neck? I see some pink, which would ordinarily be game over, but it looks like it may just be marker on the neck glass...
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#23
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That pinkish red line is the line for where to set the purity ring at the back of the neck. Is that what you’re talking about?
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#24
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I took the purity tube off to get better pictures of the neck...
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#25
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Envy!
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Audiokarma |
#26
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That blue glow I see between gun elements in the most recent pics and the seemingly abnormally bright heater glow are both very worrisome. The two unusably gassy round CRTs I have (21AXP22 and a 21FJP22) both do that when tested.
If you can get it to produce a raster in that state, run it as much as you can while it lasts to try to excite the gas molecules into hitting the getter.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 11-18-2018 at 10:25 AM. |
#27
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Well it doesn’t seem like there’s a real definitive way to know other than to restore the chassis and see what happens...
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#28
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I'm confident the tube is too gassy to use in its present state. The gassy 15GP22 I tested in a CT-100 here in the Detroit area also has that tell tale blue glow between the gun elements. Sometimes the voltage of the tester itself is enough to strike the gas and get discharge like that.
Reread my earlier post: blue glow on the inner surface of glass = harmless. Blue glow BETWEEN elements = bad. |
#29
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The blue glow would tend to suggest the gas is either argon, nitrogen, or oxygen. Nitrogen or oxygen could be cleaned up by the getter, argon, no. It just won't bind to the barium.
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#30
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Well I guess I’ll just wait for the etf to rebuild this crt. Is there any progress there with it becoming reality?
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Audiokarma |
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