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#1
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is this a real zenith crt?that looks as good as it did when brand new!beautiful picture that puts modern sets to shame
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#2
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Yes it is a Zenith tube with code date of 1961 and still checks like new I believe it is the original.
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#3
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just a couple other things, did you check the cathode current with the beam current near zero (if the sams says that way), did you replace the HOT grid coupling cap as part of the total recap? do you have some other HOT's you can try (in case the one you have is a bit gassy) how does the the shunt tube current look (I think that one still used the shunt vs the pulse type). Do you have a scope, if so you can check the PP horz drive or use a VTVM and confirm the neg voltage.
Last edited by DaveWM; 08-25-2011 at 02:33 PM. |
#4
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I was doing some reading about other drains on the fly that can account for higher than normal currents. thats such a nice looking picture it seems like all the other stuff is working correctly (it mentioned the convergence board as one thing to check).
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#5
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Audiokarma |
#6
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it all sounds like its real close, prob just down to tubes. If the VTVM voltage on the grid of the how is close then you are prob ok. The voltages on the sams dont always match the voltages on the service manuals, besides I think they generally say +-20%. Who knows could be difference in the kind of meters being used.
The pic is great so I would not mess with it too much other than seeing if you can lower the input AC. That is def a great set. I generally run my sets at 105-115 if they are going to be on for any length of time. I just set them up at 115 and adj after warm up to the lowest voltage that still fills out the screen. the FLYs seem to run cooler this way, but I must add I have never sat down and tried to document how much cooler. |
#7
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That is a wonderful looking set and how fortunate of you to score a flyback! |
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