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  #31  
Old 09-16-2012, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy G View Post
No, Dammitt, I think it'd look better at MINE !! (grin)
your mistaken, it would lok beter at MINE! MINE! MINE!
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  #32  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:03 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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pulled the chassis cover off the bottom of the chroma section (this one has that done point to point not PCB) yikes a bunch more wax paper caps. I can see this is going to take a while. One of my other unrestored 5's had a PCB for the chroma section. interesting that they are both considered 5's this is not a minor difference (at least in construction, maybe the circuits are the same).

there is a lot of wax film on on the PCB from the caps that must have oozed wax which then flowed all over the PCB. Normally I don't bother to clean them but these are so bad (wax film with dust captured) that I cant read anything. So I spent a little bit of time to clean up the boards.
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  #33  
Old 09-17-2012, 12:45 PM
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well the 1st power filter cap was badly shorted, so I don't think I am going to waste any time on this. All the cans are very easy to get at with the bone saw so they will all get zipped off and caps installed from the top. using this process leaves all the orig lead dress undisturbed and is very very quick. 4 cans would prob take me no more than an hour to do if I get it all setup ahead of time (have all the caps on hand).
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  #34  
Old 09-17-2012, 02:43 PM
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well I only have enough of the correct caps to do 2 cans, so I will be going over it and making up a list of caps for the whole set for order, then I can sit around and stare at it while recouping on the hand....

I should prob order enough to do all 3 of the CTC-5 chassis just to cut down on the shipping cost. would be nice to have 3 working chassis.
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  #35  
Old 09-17-2012, 08:09 PM
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in my desperation to do something went ahead and cut the cans off and drilled the bottoms with my pin drill. Installed the caps in two of the cans.
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  #36  
Old 09-17-2012, 11:07 PM
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while putzing with it I noticed what looked like a mod in the contrast circuit, a 68ohm resistor/cap tacked in between point "T" of the video board to the contrast, also the contrast pot has a 50uf cap and 1k resistor (like a cathode bypass setup). It would seem this is some kind of mod to the video amp tube cathode bypass.
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  #37  
Old 09-18-2012, 12:44 AM
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I did that mod to my 5 and made a huge difference. Before the mod, when the contrast was turned up, the HV would drop out and the picture would dim and blur. Link:http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ontrastMod.jpg
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  #38  
Old 09-18-2012, 03:27 AM
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I see this chassis still has its HV box cover. Very nice! It seems that nine out of ten CTC-5s have no cover.
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  #39  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:31 AM
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that is the circuit, thanks for the link
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  #40  
Old 09-18-2012, 11:55 PM
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I must be lucky, mine has all its covers.
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  #41  
Old 09-27-2012, 09:55 PM
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been no progress due to hand surgery, but I did manage a little bit of work just before.

1st pic if two of the completed can caps.
2nd pic is just some of the cleaned up PCB's so I can see what I am doing
3rd pic has the bone saw used to cut off the cans right at the shoulder and the pin vise used to drill the holes from the bottom side up. Drilling from the bottom lets me get the idea spot for the hole. One hole right by the pos terminal and then the other hole right by the soldered twist lug. Doing caps like this lets me use the cheaper radial lead caps and leaves the lead dress undisturbed. You just need to clean well so the solder will flow.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 002.jpg (82.4 KB, 84 views)
File Type: jpg 003.jpg (75.1 KB, 78 views)

Last edited by DaveWM; 09-27-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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  #42  
Old 09-27-2012, 11:46 PM
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I'm diggin those 82@450 lytics... they are pretty skinny compared to the ones i usually get... so it looks like they fit nicely in the cans. Where did you get them?
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  #43  
Old 09-28-2012, 12:12 AM
snelson903 snelson903 is offline
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thoughs are pretty cool looking ,make good fit in a restuffed can.
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  #44  
Old 09-28-2012, 12:48 AM
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Those are the new ones that Mouser has, yes the fit very well, are 105c IIRC they are 12mm wide, you can get a 4 cap can done no problem.

The main thing is how fast you can do a can , those 2 can caps take 10min tops from start to finish, figure about 5min tops per cap. Its much faster than my old way of removing the old cap, and prob as fast as doing under the chassis installation if you take into account good wiring practices (like term strips, no flying lead stuff). I would say its faster than if you had the correct twist lock can since you do not have to unsolder anything.

Last edited by DaveWM; 09-28-2012 at 12:52 AM.
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  #45  
Old 09-29-2012, 03:32 PM
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did the remaining two filter cans, very easy method again. going to lay off it for a while now, then will get on the paper caps. There are quite a few that are point to point (the chorma section is NOT on a pcb) On those I am prob just going to go pig tail method. The tube sockets are not the best quality and I don't want to goof them up trying to unsolder. The others on the bottom have some coils involved so again pig tail. I know some purest think this is sloppy work, but I think its less invasive, and since I have no way of determining the operating status, I dont want to create a problem.
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