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  #16  
Old 09-08-2013, 09:45 PM
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Eric H Eric H is offline
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I started taking the set apart tonight to assess it's condition, also I wouldn't be able to get it out of the Van by myself if it was together.

Chassis is pretty clean, Flyback looks good, all the plastic gears in the remote system look good.
I will probably attempt a slow start before doing anything to it, I have a weak 21" tube I can use for testing.
Seller said he was told it worked by the people he bought it from so it probably got necked after that but it looks like it's been sitting a while, there was rust on the CRT gun.

CRT was toast, neck was really short, mask looked dirty so I just tossed it, possibility of it being rebuilt was nil, even if they get the rebuilding going at the ETF there are much better candidates out there.
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File Type: jpg ctc10chassis.jpg (32.3 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg necked21cyp-3.jpg (13.5 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg necked21cyp.jpg (20.7 KB, 97 views)
File Type: jpg ctc10flyback.jpg (24.1 KB, 94 views)
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  #17  
Old 09-09-2013, 08:21 AM
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Eric, that was a really good find... even though you still need to find a CRT. That cabinet would be breath taking with a fresh coat of black lacquer on it!
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  #18  
Old 09-09-2013, 10:59 AM
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Hi Charlie, I have a new rebuilt CRT from the 80's sitting in a closet, it's not a CYP but it'll work.
I have to figure a way to remove the safety glass that got cracked when I bumped it against a metal shelf, I'm hoping it's the type that will soak off in water, otherwise it's going to be hard since it's not delaminated at all.
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  #19  
Old 09-09-2013, 12:44 PM
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Amazing what TV guys have stuck in the closets!!

I've got an FJP22 buried in the closet, too. It was put in a set in the 1980's, run for a year, and then the power transformer got hit by lightning, along with the tuner and IF section. Unfortunately, it has begun to delaminate.

I need to keep it, though.
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2013, 09:38 PM
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I dug out the new CRT tonight, I had to unbolt a cabinet and swing it out of the way to get the tube out, it's been trapped in there for quite a few years.
It's a Channel Master with a date stamp of 1984 I think, can't make out the last digit too well but I think that's what it was.

Good news, it still checks like new, as it should, also the area of the safety glass that is cracked has delaminated, I could probably pull that piece off if I wanted to.
It wasn't like that last time I saw it, probably at least 5-8 years ago, also it smells like deteriorating plastic so the PVA is probably going bad.

I put it in the second bathroom, I don't use that one so it won't be in the way, it has a shallow shower only tub, about 4 inches deep, or just right to soak the tube in for a while.
I added a little Clorox to keep it from getting rank and maybe it'll help break down the PVA, I also scraped off the clear tape they used to contain the PVA to allow the water to get to it. I noticed some fine bubbles around the edge so I hope it's water seeping into the PVA.

This will work out great since it's going in a set that didn't use a bonded tube, the screen color may be a bit different though.
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File Type: jpg cmtube.jpg (23.4 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg crtcrack.jpg (28.6 KB, 90 views)
File Type: jpg crttub-1.jpg (9.7 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg crttub-2.jpg (7.4 KB, 66 views)
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  #21  
Old 09-09-2013, 09:42 PM
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Heart is racing!
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  #22  
Old 09-10-2013, 12:04 AM
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The chassis is alive! I did a soft start with the Variac, disconnected the cap from the HV rectifier also because I don't have the Anode wire plugged in.
It has High Voltage and, after fiddling with the dirty tuner a bit, strong sound, I'm betting it would display a picture, or at least a raster if it had a CRT hooked up. Filter caps didn't get warm.

I found the fuse had been replaced with a single strand of Solder , wonder how many amps that would handle, 10 at least and more likely 20, it's supposed to be 0.75 Amp.
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  #23  
Old 09-10-2013, 02:00 AM
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EESH! on the "fuse" but Happy for the chassis being "alive"!! Gotta love this era of RCA! The 10 is in my favorites list Like the CTC9, they almost ALWAYS work! Hopefully my new 9 follows suit!
I can't wait to see a picture on this beautiful set Eric!
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  #24  
Old 09-10-2013, 06:34 AM
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Eric if you have the time leave that crt in the soak for a couple MONTHS, no kidding. I rushed one and had an implosion, not fun. it was the same deal the lens cracked a bit during the removal and my attempts to remove it just kept chipping more away. Then one morning going into the 9th inning is just imploded when I touched it.

If I had to do it all over again I would have left it sit for a year in the darn water if need be.

It was a rectangle, which I have done before. Maybe roundies are less implosion prone, just be sure to protect you eyes and wear protective clothing.

Seeing that crack lens brought back bad memories

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRJ0otqgmYs

The problem I had was once the lens was cracked I had a hard time getting a good edge to apply the wood wedges used to pry off the lens, it just kept cracking off into small pieces, right up to the good solid PVA, which makes it hard to dig out and have a space to work with under the lens.

Last edited by DaveWM; 09-10-2013 at 08:57 AM.
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  #25  
Old 09-10-2013, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
I found the fuse had been replaced with a single strand of Solder , wonder how many amps that would handle, 10 at least and more likely 20, it's supposed to be 0.75 Amp.
What?? No penny in there??

I found a blown fuse wrapped with a piece of foil once years ago. I suspect that was done by the set owner (sounds like something my grandfather would have done).

Kinda makes you wonder why they just didn't put a fuse in there. Seems like a service man would have had some fuses. But then, it's likely the average set owner wouldn't have solder in the kitchen junk drawer. What was going on to blow that fuse? It's only going to blow if something is wrong. Was someone getting tired of changing fuses? Did they simply not have one?

I guess the possibilities are endless.
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  #26  
Old 09-10-2013, 01:14 PM
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When I got my CTC-10, with the broken CRT, someone in the past had wrapped this fuse with foil.

When I got my replacement CRT installed, I replaced the fuse with the right part. That was 1975. It's never blown again.
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  #27  
Old 09-10-2013, 07:39 PM
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+1 on letting that tube soak for a good while. It seems to me that PVA used on newer/rebuilt tubes is stronger at bonding and may not allow seperation as quickly as the RCA's from the sixties does. I soaked a dud through two summer months so I could easily salvage the safety glass from it..
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  #28  
Old 09-10-2013, 08:38 PM
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I plan on letting it soak as long as needed, no heat or mechanical force will be used because that's just too scary. I might poke some Toothpicks in the side to help separate it but nothing more heavy duty than that.

I'll pull it out of the tub this weekend and see if it's doing anything.

I read that Denatured Alcohol might dissolve PVA but I don't want to fill my bathtub with that, not to mention the cost. It might be possible to build a snug fitting pan or bag so it wouldn't take much liquid to bring it to the level of the glue layer, outdoors of course.
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  #29  
Old 09-11-2013, 01:05 AM
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That's a shame what happened to the original CRT on that, the chassis in working condition, some careless idiot necked it, Oh well.. I wonder if it was necked during transport, someone made a fast turn and the set fell on it's back.. I noticed alot of those 1980s roundie rebuilds seem to test like new.. I have three working roundies, one with the original CRT, on a brighter, and one with a Colorama Rebuilt from the mid 1970s, and one unknown rebuilt from the early 1980s.. The one rebuilt from the early 1980s test like brand new with the Beltron and even the voltage being well below five volts all needles stay past .8.. Speaking of Beltrons they have weaker results when testing compared to a B&K 467 and a Sencore CR70.. I've tested different tubes with three different Beltron units compared to the other testers and the beltrons give approx same weaker results..

Last edited by tvcollector; 09-11-2013 at 01:09 AM.
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  #30  
Old 09-11-2013, 08:25 PM
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Nine bad tubes!

Checked the tubes in the TV chassis tonight, there were nine bad ones, most had shorts, the 6AQ5 and the 6BK4 were weak, the one 6GH8 in the set checked good! The Sweep tubes (output and damper) checked OK but not as good as they could be so I'll replace them if I have spares.
There are a few tubes in the remote chassis I haven't checked yet because it's still in the cabinet in the garage.
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