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  #31  
Old 09-18-2017, 10:55 PM
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MadMan MadMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Hmm. I don't see a 6BC5 in the schematic. I'm thinking it's in the tuner but that shows a 6AG5.
*scratches head* Dammit! And I already ordered a tube for it - the wrong tube, it is supposed to be a 6AG5. The vertical osc/amp tube was also wrong, a 12BH7 instead of 12AU7. According to my tube book, they're close approximations of each other, but meh. I'll just order another tube. I did put a 12AU7 in it, it didn't seem to make much difference.
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  #32  
Old 09-19-2017, 08:10 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Tube substitution manuals: For the repair man who's tube caddy ain't big enough for two similar types with different numbers...

If the other type seems to work well in the stage then it may as well stay, but if it don't going for the original number is the wise choice.
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  #33  
Old 09-19-2017, 08:48 AM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Truth be known, I store my tubes in tube caddies. Today,you can have a caddy for radio, another for audio, another for B/W sets etc.

That way, they ain't so heavy...
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  #34  
Old 09-19-2017, 09:01 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post
Truth be known, I store my tubes in tube caddies. Today,you can have a caddy for radio, another for audio, another for B/W sets etc.

That way, they ain't so heavy...
I sort of do the same thing....The stuff I've had the longest are in caddies sorted by number and tested. After that is is an unsorted mix of boxed NOS, and semi-sorted loose pulls (some stored in boxes after the caddys filled)...The pulls are sorted by type (HV diodes sweep power tubes, 7 pin, 9 pin octal/loctal signal, fat pin) A caddy FILLED with un-boxed loose pulls can get heavy fast.
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  #35  
Old 09-19-2017, 09:43 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
*scratches head* Dammit! And I already ordered a tube for it - the wrong tube, it is supposed to be a 6AG5. The vertical osc/amp tube was also wrong, a 12BH7 instead of 12AU7. According to my tube book, they're close approximations of each other, but meh. I'll just order another tube. I did put a 12AU7 in it, it didn't seem to make much difference.
A 6BC5 is the newer generation 6AG5. I seldom bought 6AG5's, always 6BC5's.
Way back then, I would try different variations of similar tubes, 12BH7 vs 12AU7 etc, to avoid having to troubleshoot the circuit.
That was in jobs where the set owner didn't want to spend too much money on an old set.
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  #36  
Old 09-19-2017, 12:22 PM
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DavGoodlin DavGoodlin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I sort of do the same thing....The stuff I've had the longest are in caddies sorted by number and tested. After that is is an unsorted mix of boxed NOS, and semi-sorted loose pulls (some stored in boxes after the caddys filled)...The pulls are sorted by type (HV diodes sweep power tubes, 7 pin, 9 pin octal/loctal signal, fat pin) A caddy FILLED with un-boxed loose pulls can get heavy fast.
Many of us could probably cull our loose/unboxed tube collection by:

1. testing all the HV rectifiers 1B3-1X2-1V2-3A3 etc weeds out the open filaments at least. Id hate to stick a bad one in a working set.

2. testing all the damper tubes for gas-shorts again where fails are obvious on a simple tester

3. Testing 5U4's and sweep tubes in a working set. emission testers miss often the bad ones

4. Run a quick shorts-gas test on all the common triodes and pentodes 6CG7, 12AU7, 6SN7, 6CB6....
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Last edited by DavGoodlin; 09-19-2017 at 12:25 PM.
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