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  #46  
Old 09-29-2012, 07:33 PM
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wa2ise wa2ise is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
On those I am prob just going to go pig tail method. The tube sockets are not the best quality and I don't want to goof them up trying to unsolder. The others on the bottom have some coils involved so again pig tail. I know some purest think this is sloppy work, but I think its less invasive, and since I have no way of determining the operating status, I dont want to create a problem.
I do this, for this reason, all the time. Just have the pigtiled lead follow the same pattern of lead dress as the old part had. That is, keeping the splice a straight path and not creating a bent pattern.

TV repairmen of the day would do this, they didn't want to spend extra time on a job, and also didn't want to risk breaking something.
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  #47  
Old 09-30-2012, 12:34 AM
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ok all the wax caps under the chassis are now done, just a few on the pcb that mounts on the back and then on to the rest of the PCB. I replaced the 2 .47's in the flyback cage, dusted it gently, it "looks" ok for whatever that is worth.

By doing all the Point to Point stuff 1st it the hard part, the PCB caps are a cinch.

I do as you said, keep the part in the same location and keep the lead dress as original as possible. Had no breakage of parts in the recapping.

At this rate I would hope I can get the balance of it done before next weekend.
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  #48  
Old 09-30-2012, 10:09 AM
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I typically do the pigtail method as well. If I had a CT100 or a 16CK1, I would take the extra time to completely desolder the original part. I don't feel like I do a very good job desoldering... especially when many parts are soldered to one point... so the pigtail just seems more practical for me on common sets. On occasion, I will unsolder the original part if there's plenty of room to work and little chance of me screwing something up.
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  #49  
Old 09-30-2012, 10:40 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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progress
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  #50  
Old 09-30-2012, 10:44 AM
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I typically always pig tail to coils, and will take the time to remove if its to a term strip as long as it does not have a bunch of other stuff on it. I also generally always pig tail to mini tube sockets. I large tube socket has an easy to get at term with out a bunch of stuff I will generally try to not pig tail, but if its at all hard to get at I will pig tail. I comes down to ease and fragile.
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  #51  
Old 09-30-2012, 10:45 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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To keep is simple I just ordered a bunch of 1.6kv and 1kv for .047 and .01's. there were a lot of them, and the larger HV caps fit better to the orig part locations.
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  #52  
Old 10-01-2012, 09:24 AM
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I found this somewhat helpful. I got the orig doc from ETF, the cut and pasted into excel. the cap numbers are cross ref to the schematic. I print it out and used a marker to clearly ID the caps on the board layout. Just a double check to make sure I don't goof anything.
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  #53  
Old 10-01-2012, 05:24 PM
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two more caps to go on the audio board, then the video board. Sure looks a lot nicer with those shiny new caps

I am going to need to find some new coax, one of the lead is rotten out to a pot.
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  #54  
Old 10-01-2012, 08:25 PM
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all done. the two paper caps on the video pcb were a PITA to get at, the solder pads were under the delay line, but I got them done. So all recapped now. I left the few orange and brown drops alone for now.

Next up I will sweep the resistors looking for any way out of whack, then will test all the tubes for shorts and emissions. After that I think I will be good to go for a power up. Will check the B+ rail for shorts 1st if thats ok I will do a full power start, no need to variac it since I have all new filter caps and 5U4 rectifiers anyway.

oh forgot the dumb coax, will have to get that worked out 1st before I do the power up.
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  #55  
Old 10-01-2012, 08:36 PM
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all pcb done
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  #56  
Old 10-02-2012, 10:29 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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fixed the volume control coax lead. So its all good to go. Now I just have to pull the chassis out of the donor set (leave the CRT in it for now) and slide this one in for a test run. Prob be in the next couple of days. (oh after checking the tubes duh...)
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  #57  
Old 10-02-2012, 04:36 PM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Sounds good. We'll be 'a watching...
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  #58  
Old 10-02-2012, 04:46 PM
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the few caps I did not change were the domino types, there was at least one large value 1000pf on the horz board. I figured I would leave them be until I test it and see if there is an issue. This thing sure has a LOT of paper caps.

A quick pass did not turn up any faulty resistors. I did have an open fuse the .75amp on the top. I did not have the correct fuse type, so I rigged up a in line fuse holder that uses the blown fuse as a plug, and lets me use the more common stye. Just a temp fix until I get the correct fuse type. There is a B+ fuse, a HOT cathode fuse, and I am not sure what this one is for its a bit confusing on the schematic, seems like its tied into the yoke/vert out/damper circuit.
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  #59  
Old 10-02-2012, 05:37 PM
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so whats the deal with the yoke plastic?, I seem to recall this being a problem and there being some easy fixes using common plastic parts. Mine is turning into a white mess.
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  #60  
Old 10-02-2012, 10:25 PM
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one shorted 6EA8 AGC and sync amp, Schematic shows a 6U8 a quick check shows that as a sub
weak 6LF8 1st video and noise inverter, schematic shows a 6AW8 a quick check shows that as a sub
getting tired still need to check the chroma and video amp, the rest look ok.
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