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#31
01-11-2015, 09:04 PM
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If with the color control up you still get the same bars as in post 20, then what you need to do to fix it is look for the 3.58Mhz Chroma reference transformer, and adjust it's slug until it synchs...At that point the color bars should go away and you should have a color picture, though it might still look a bit funny if the front tint/hue control is mis-adjusted.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 
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#32
01-11-2015, 09:11 PM
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Interesting, color in the pic with the color control turned all the way down when your CRT checks reasonably good. I have been wondering if that was a surefire indicator of a bad CRT because I just got a 1983 Toshiba Blackstripe set that shows a lot of color with that simple test. I don't want to dump it because the person who gave it to me said it was hard for her to give it away because it was her dad's TV. Also, it seems to be a less common model. I might end up stealing a CRT from one that's more common. It has a few other minor ills and could use a Retrobrite treatment as well.
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#33
01-11-2015, 09:44 PM
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You have a badly misconverged image -the blue lateral is off a bit, but red and green seem converged, giving the yellow lines. The black stuff at the base of the tube is the rtv rubber zenith used to hold the tubes in place for shipping. Dust away the salts and she'll be fine.
Zeno can chime in on this one -I've not worked a Zenith hybrid in a while, as dura module sets are plentiful in my world. Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit!
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#34
01-12-2015, 11:02 AM
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Good to see it on the bench.
Minor width problem most likely H. output tube. damper & H. osc tubes also possable and filter can ( in front of tripler ). The CRT looks very strong. Blue lateral is the white part on the neck. Has 2 rings with tabs for purity & the twist magnet is the blue lat. Give that a turn to put the blue on the yellow. Clean tuner & hopefully the snow comes back. Chromatic switch. Note the color, tint, bright & contrast knobs have holes. There is a second set of controls for the chromatic. With it on ( orange ) the regular controls dont work you use the screwdriver to adj it. When off the outside controls work. Color problem. 1) clean normal/align switch on top of chassis between the color module. If that dont work...... 2)remove the 2 color modules ( 9-27 & 9-?? ) if the IC's are still plug in remove them & clean sockets. Be sure to note the markings to put them back in right. Spray the module contacts also. If that dont work...... 3) put on a color picture. Put norm/align switch in align. Adjust the APC control on the 9-27 board for the FEWEST bars rolling through picture. Return to normal. That will keep you busy for a while !! 73 Zeno 
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#35
01-12-2015, 06:15 PM
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Good news!
After rocking the normal/align switch a little (I didn't even cleaned it) color came back! I fiddled a bit with the blue lateral to adjust convergence, and voilą! Convergence still need a bit of tinkering, but i'll get to that later. Now I need to find the focus pot. Looked around for it and I could not locate it. Haha All in all, I am amazed that the TV came back so easily, you guys where right, those are very reliables TV...and the tube is still very strong! here are a few pictures, the first is for comparaison to earlier B&W picture, the others are before/after blue lateral magnet adjustment. And as always : Thanks! Edit : I just found the focus pot. For some reason it's labeled as "vert. centering" on the chassis, that why I couldn't locate it. Last edited by Dreamsbeard; 01-12-2015 at 06:43 PM.
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#36
01-12-2015, 06:22 PM
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#37
01-12-2015, 07:33 PM
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It has no effect on monochrome synch. The monochrome horizontal synch pulses contain a sample of the carrier used to detect and decode the color signal. That sample is called the burst, it is gated and used to synch the 3.58MHz reference osc. Tube era sets and some SS sets have an adjustable transformer used to bring the frequency of that osc. close enough for the osc. to synch to the burst. The phase difference between that osc. and the chroma signal determines hue of the color, and the amplitude of the chroma determines how saturated that color is. If the osc. is off in phase people will have purple faces, and if it is off in frequency you will get horizontal bars of RGB, or a constant tinted monochrome image.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
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#38
01-12-2015, 07:39 PM
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Rapid progress ! Nice work. You cant beat these sets to
learn & experiment with. If the color is lined up properly you should be able to change channels WITHOUT the color coming on with color bars before locking in. If it dont deal with it later. Next is the minor width problem. Be SHURE you are actually turning the HV reg control, see if it goes from stop to stop. Most had an odd adjustment that you had to jam a tool in to get it to move, not just the usual screwdriver adjustment. HV controls with a bad spot give exactly the minor width problem. The filter can is a quick test but the sides are strait so I think thats OK. After that scare up some KNOWN good ( not tube tested ) tubes. When the width is fixed its time for a complete CRT set up. 73 Zeno
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#39
01-12-2015, 07:59 PM
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As for the tubes, I should get an 6LF6 and the 3 others as well?
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#42
01-13-2015, 09:43 AM
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no other uses so should be much less. It depends on if you want to possably wait & pay another shipping charge etc. 73 Zeno
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#43
01-13-2015, 09:49 AM
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 However, the link is dead. I mean ..non disponible
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#44
01-13-2015, 03:25 PM
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Sorry , you where closer to it, but I was faster 
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Linear Mode
