#1
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Vm 1245/1266
Greetings!
Recently picked up an old Fisher console dug out of my grandparents basement. The TV and related wiring has been disposed of, but the tube amps, am/fm Hi-Fi, and turntable are still there. The original tube amps and speakers are also there. I know some of the tubes are clearly missing and I don't want to get into a rebuild on those right now. In the meantime, I've purchased a tube pre-amp for phono and a small SS amp to play through the speakers (2-10s, 2-4in mids, & 2-3in tweets). My question is for all the VM experts: on the bottom of the player is a flat plug with 3 wires running to the tube amp. I need to know what these 3 wires actually do (red, black, & white). I have separate RCA connections for line out, so I'm guessing they are for power? Please advise.....I don't want to blow anything up! I ordered a service manual from The Voice of Music, but it doesn't specify the information I'm looking for. Thanks for helping. |
#2
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That plug is for the AC power, ad off/on switch
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#3
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2 wires for power, and one wire to power the am, that way the amp would shut off when the records were done. you can get a cord that plugs right into that connector at the voice of music website
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#4
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I have the connector for the player, but it runs back into one of the tube amps. I spent time last night tracing wires and on Google to glean additional info. The original AC plug is non-polarized and has one line going directly to the motor, and the other going to the on/off switch for the TT. Now that I understand the wiring, here is my plan:
The console has all of the original amps, speakers, tuner, etc. still installed, but just the TV and related wiring has been removed. I would like to keep it as original looking as possible, so my tube preamp and SS amp will remain hidden. The on/off switch and all console controls are still present and wired up. I would like to wire the TT AC up to the original console on/off switch and keep the preamp/SS amp wired to a separate power strip hidden inside the console. This way, it still appears to onlookers that the unit is functioning as originally designed. I'm not sure that the original power switch can handle straight 110v or if it is relayed. Guess I have some more investigating to do. |
#5
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In the 60's and earlier power relays were almost unheard of.
Personally, I think you'd be better off replacing the caps on the original amp/preamp chassis. Get a Sam's photofact for it, order caps based on the parts list, and solder them in....When I have the chassis for such a set on my bench I normally have the caps changed in under 4 hours....Can be 30 minutes or less if I'm focused and on a roll (especially simple chassis). Audio circuits are not terribly picky...If the tubes are good (likely), the resistors can be off tolerance and many things can be a good ways off of ideal, and the effect on performance may not be noticeable.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#6
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I didnt understand a word of that..........
Extreme noob when it comes to tube gear. Looks like I'll be spending more time on the interwebs. |
#7
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What model Fisher is this? I never heard of a TV in a Fisher console.
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"When resistors increase in value, they're worthless" -Dave G |
#8
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There was one Fisher Console with a TV, the Living Voice.
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