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  #16  
Old 07-30-2014, 08:45 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I will post up some photos later today.

I need some ideas on painting. the paint is good on the sides and the back, the hood I repaint with rattle can paint a while ago. it looked OK but since then the clear has gone to pot AND some dum arse golfer hit me with a bad slice and put a nice ding on the hood that will need to be addressed. Other than that the body is perfect, no dings, no rust, never been bent (I have owned since new).

The top is really shot, the tops of the fenders seem to have lost the clear but the base is still good (I keep in in the garage so no new damage taking place, most of the damage was done years ago when I parked in the sun at work).

I am tempted to see if I can get behind the ding on the hood and at least pop it out a bit, see how it looks, then wet sand it all (I put the base from the rattle cans on pretty heavy) with some 600 grit and see how it looks for re clear. on the top I have considered just painting it gloss white for a two tone (hey its my truck I can do what I want ) that will reflect heat better.
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  #17  
Old 07-30-2014, 04:27 PM
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Could also do one of those shiny reflective silver finishes...Those should reflect more heat than white.
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2014, 08:46 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6KJ0utVYxI

need some paint tips..
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2014, 05:36 PM
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You need to paint it...... I did my wife's '91 Accord back in 2010, it was about the
same as your car..... Use a etching primer on those rust spots, but then you have to
cover it with regular primer. Then paint, and then clear coat it..... Or if'n yer not
into all that work, get a single stage paint, they are still around, but less forgiving.

Hand sand all the paint off then etch it, then primer it. If yer good, you can do it with
out removing the chrome, it's expensive to replace those plastic things that hold it on.

Believe it or not, that paint ain't all that hard to hand sand off. And you will not leave
large scrapes in the body like you would with a machine. Looks like you will get away
with a small can of filler, not many dents to go over.

There is lots online, figure out what paint company is around you and learn their
system, I was lucky I had PGP in the next town....
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2014, 05:50 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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well I decided to try a less full on approach 1st. May end up doing the full job but its really just a learning thing so 1st is what can I do with out going all out.

What I did was wet sand the bad areas on the top of the front fenders. used 1000 grit and just hand sanded. wipe down with some cleaner, then shot some rattle can clear just using a piece of cardboard as a moving mask, feather in to the good part down the side of the fender. Its about 1000% better considering where it was.

I will get some polishing compound and work the feathered part just for grins.
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  #21  
Old 08-01-2014, 06:19 PM
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Still looks good for a vehicle its age. If that were here it would likely have been a pile of rusty lace years ago. Year-around use vehicles usually don't survive here. I don't know what's keeping that '78 Grand LeMans from falling apart.
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  #22  
Old 08-01-2014, 06:59 PM
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If it's in texas there ain't no rust, so the body will last for decades.....
If yer willing to fix the small stuff you can keep it as long as yer not tired of it....

I don't look at an old cared for car as something I don't want to put much money into,
as cars are money loosing items from day one. A car that goes 500K and needs minor
work, even a transmission, is much much much much cheaper than car payments on
something that can cost up to $30K..... Yikes ! ! !

And it helps if you really like the car you bought in the first place..... I know people
who buy the best deal they can get, then in less than a year they already have a list
of 10 things they don't like about it. I love the cars we have, and I will fight to keep
them running and looking good.....

And I swear our 91 accord has more inside room than the new ones..... Even though
they are much bigger, all that dash stuff is right up in yer face on the new ones.....
Seems like you just can't do anything but plant yerself and not move....

And the best thing is that the cloth seats in it are still prefect!
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Last edited by Username1; 08-01-2014 at 07:02 PM.
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  #23  
Old 08-01-2014, 08:14 PM
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I don't see myself ever purchasing a new car, even if I had the means to do so. They have zero appeal to me. Also, those I want fortunately have almost zero monetary value.
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  #24  
Old 08-02-2014, 06:11 AM
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New cars really are shitty compared to older ones. Plastic everywhere. Plus, all of the integrated electronics GUARANTEE that they won't be around in 20 years. Someone close to me suggested that there won't be any 'collectible' cars from the 2000s in the future, due to all the irreparable computerized stuff involved. I mean, even the main engine control modules are available for a '90s car in most cases, but try and find the parts needed to fix the computers in a 2006 Infiniti in 2025 for instance. Hope this isn't the new norm.
I drive an '04 Acura.. the first year that US-sold vehicles were mandated to contain a 'black-box' vehicle-data recorder. No desire to buy anything new, for varying reasons.
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  #25  
Old 08-02-2014, 06:35 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I like my truck hence the efforts to keep it running. Mostly small stuff that goes wrong, which I think annoys a lot of folks into trading in for a new car. That seems dumb to me so I just fix and keep going. Of course it helps to be mechanically inclined and willing to try new things. I was over on the truck forum, mostly good stuff, but some guy comes on and starts with attitude and then questions if I am concerned the health safety and the enviroment. What a laugh. Yes I know to use a proper air mask for the type of paints. Enviroment, give me a break, he was a pro dent fixer, guess from that perspective all DIY is hack.
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  #26  
Old 08-02-2014, 07:11 PM
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Eco-freaks, yuck. As for the plastic bumpers, safety requirements seem to have gone back a step in that regard. Bigger, heavier bumpers were mandated for 1974, now this.
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  #27  
Old 08-02-2014, 10:21 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I nearly popped for the 6" DA air sander at HF today, but they did not have any fine (wanted 600 grit) sanding disk so just did it by hand.

I sanded the pass side top fender down to the pin stripe, and the edge of the top down a door piller, down to the same pin strip also on the pass side. Using the pin stripe as a nice panel break.

Got it masked off, if weather looks good tomorrow will shoot some rattle can at it and see how it looks.
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  #28  
Old 08-06-2014, 07:45 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8pRBlpbGJg

not great but a lot better. prob end up getting a DA air sander and a HVLP gun soon.
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  #29  
Old 08-06-2014, 08:26 PM
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Nice job, You can keep doing what yer doing and end up with a nice job. But don't use
the air sander, hand sand it and you will end up with a much nicer job....
You might want to invest in a cleaner before you paint. Commonly just called a de-greaser, or silicon
wax cleaner it will remove stuff that can be left behind, even after sanding....
Use a file on the rust spots.... Don't laugh just yet....

For the rust spots you will have to either get it all off, or it will just come back. Especially
if you use that "rattle" brand paint. I have put 2 part paint over surface rust and it
takes a lot longer to come back, I think it seals the surface much better...... Harder..?
I don't know.... Better air seal....

Looks real good...

Today's car paint is much more friendly than the stuff I learned with. It's cleaner, don't smell
so much, and you won't be tasting it for weeks after yer done....

Centari was good but like a chemical plant. Dulux was pretty dam poisonous.... Now this
Base/Clear you can almost put in yer coffee and still live.... And the water base stuff they
use in Calif. you can use in a pinch as baby formula...... Big improvement over the decades...

I still use my old Sears HVHP gun.... Fogs the entire town.....

.

.
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Last edited by Username1; 08-06-2014 at 08:38 PM.
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  #30  
Old 08-06-2014, 08:40 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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I used lacquer thinner to wipe down after all the sanding, then a product called "final prep" or something like that, then a tack rag (that may have been it if it was contaminated) just before shooting the black. the green base wend on easy, but I should have either sanded more, or primed, or more coats (that I can still do) to get better coverage as you can still see some of the orig defects coming thru. I think better sanding a a primer just so the base does not have to mask so man underlying problems, but I am no paint guy so this is just me messing around.

I would like to find a dinged up body panel to go mess with to try doing dent removal. I may have to had auto body work to DAVE's VINTAGE TV repair shop that I plan to open when I retire.

after the paint I plan to learn about auto upholestry.
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