Capehart 661-P

[VintagePC]

Nice work!

[bandersen]

Wow, that does have good emissions I'm glad you were able to save it.

[old_coot88]

Yaay! It's been sed before, but Phil you da man.

[Phil Nelson]

Two last photos to close the tale of the tube. I used RTV "sensor safe" sealant to secure the cap before soldering the pins.

Thanks again for the tips & encouragement. I was kinda chicken about working on the tube base, but hearing how others had done it successfully made a big difference.

Now I need to quit playing around and restore the rest of the TV

Phil Nelson

[Eric H]

Great job Phil, I wish I knew about the Silver Epoxy earlier, it no doubt is a better repair than the Dag and spring loaded plunger I used on my 9QP4.

Your 10BP4 has a weird base also, it's much pointier than most I've seen and there's not much room for chiseling out the glass.

[ChrisW6ATV]

Nice work, Phil. Think of it as a strong 10BP4 for $31 and some labor.

[Phil Nelson]

Yah, a $31 CRT isn't bad. Takes a little of the sting out of having to come up with 28 other tubes to populate the naked chassis.

Phil Nelson

[Phil Nelson]

Is anyone familiar with the tuner mechanism on this Capehart-Farnsworth 661-P? It has ganged air variable capacitors (duh) with mechanical detents. All well and good for the low channels, 2-6. When I get to 6, it stops and I don't want to force it.

Seems like there should be some sort of cam thingie to shift it into high gear, but the gearworks in front are mostly hidden. I'd rather not unsolder all the connections to remove the whole tuner unless it's really necessary.

Thanks!

Phil Nelson

[Phil Nelson]

Never mind. Finally freed up the hidden gizmo. The tuner needs to come out for a proper lube & cleaning, in any case.

Phil Nelson

[old_coot88]

Phil,
I once had a '49 (or maybe '50) Silvertone that had a tuner like that. Never saw another one like it before or since, until seeing yours. It had a semicircular "ramp" on the front that operated a slider that switched between two 'bands', 2-6 and 7-13. The 'ramp' was turned by the large outer knob, and the inner knob turned the ganged tuning caps thru a planetary drive.

The large knob occupied the position normally held by the fine tuning knob on a 'normal' tuner, and was printed with two segments showing channel numbers of the two bands. An indicator, driven from the tuning gang, pointed to the channel number. Dunno if the mechanism's perzackly the same as the one you've got or not.
Bill(oc)

[charokeeroad]

Gota Love that Silver Solder Exopy, no heat required. I'll try it on my next lead repair. Also gives me some ideas for a couple other fix it jobs!!

[Phil Nelson]

Whaddya think, folks -- should I replace this width control?



Talk about burned up. While looking around, I had noticed a terminal on that control where something used to be connected. I'm pointing to it in this photo.



The lead formerly connected to the bare terminal is marked with a yellow arrow. That's not the only horseplay I've found this set. Notice the flat black cap connected to nothing (also marked with an arrow). So far, I've found two disconnected caps.

I guess when the control burned up, the guy just moved that lead to join it with the power tranny lead, taking the pot out of the circuit.



Who knows, the width might have been acceptable at that stage, so maybe the caveman "repair" was just being thrifty.

I'll replace it anyhow, although the price for a 200-ohm/4W rheostat at Allied Electric made me swoon ($75).

Next step: looking for evidence of what burned up the pot in the first place!

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

[old_coot88]

$75 for that?!! Holy bleepin' mackrel! I'd be inclined to stick a 100 ohm wirewound fixed resistor in there to see which way it needs to go for proper sweep. Then just leave a fixed resistor in place till a reasonably priced control's available. Or maybe if the width is OK, just leave it jumpered like the last guy did for the time being.

Is there a chance you could post a close-up of that horiz.out.. er, self-oscillating 6L6 and the preceding sync stage? That setup is plum fascinating. oc

[kvflyer]

The auction site has them, NOS, 200 ohm, 4 watt for $10.00 with shipping of $5.50. Item # 160145722955.

Not me and I have no affiliation with the seller...

[Tim]

Playthings of the Past lists one for $5.50 however there is that $20.00 minimum order thing.

1487-690 CLAROSTAT A10 200, W.W., 4W, PLUG-IN SHAFT. 1 5.50