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  #181  
Old 07-26-2010, 11:52 PM
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Here are a couple of photos with it working. With just the room light the CRT shows up too bright. With a drop light it's kind of washed out. Guess I'll have to do the room light, no room light, Photoshop trick if I want a good photo.

I need to rotate the yoke a bit. Seems to have moved while carrying it out of the dungeon. I also didn't notice that I needed to center the horizontal before taking the photo. That's been fixed now.

It had good bass before mounting the speaker in the cabinet. Now it seems a bit excessive.

John
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File Type: jpg tati_drop_light.jpg (138.8 KB, 69 views)
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  #182  
Old 07-27-2010, 12:08 PM
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WOW! looking good! What an incredible project!

It is great to restore a set like this that is remembered from childhood, even better if the set, or in this case a major part of the set is the same one that you enjoyed as a kid.

jr
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  #183  
Old 07-27-2010, 01:52 PM
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John, that set looks great. For me, the hardest thin is trying to take a good photo of an operating TV. And trying to get the exposure correct for cabinet and CRT is mostly impossible. :-)
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  #184  
Old 07-27-2010, 02:31 PM
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It helps if you have a camera that lets you control the aperture and shutter. I use a Pentax K200D for all my photos, but it also helps to shoot in normal room light with the brightness turned down a little.
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  #185  
Old 07-27-2010, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniman82 View Post
It helps if you have a camera that lets you control the aperture and shutter. I use a Pentax K200D for all my photos, but it also helps to shoot in normal room light with the brightness turned down a little.
Actually I have a Canon Digital Rebel and I shot the images at 1/8 sec to make sure I had full frames. I tried turning the brightness down until it was nearly invisible, but the raster was still too bright in the photo with normal room light. Maybe I should try it in the daytime in case natural light would help.

John
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  #186  
Old 07-27-2010, 07:58 PM
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That picture looks excellent - very bright and clear Is that a rebuilt CRT ?

Photographing sets is a pain. The best results I've gotten have used daylight. I believe Eric photo-shopped a picture of his last restoration and it looked great.
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  #187  
Old 07-27-2010, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
That picture looks excellent - very bright and clear Is that a rebuilt CRT ?

Photographing sets is a pain. The best results I've gotten have used daylight. I believe Eric photo-shopped a picture of his last restoration and it looked great.
It's a 12LP4A that Scotty rebuilt for me. I had to add screen bias for it to work. He just finished rebuilding the 12VP4 for me. I'll have to try it when it gets here. I'm not sure if I'll use the 12VP4 for originality or stick with the 12LP4 and use the 12VP4 in the set it came with.

Now I have a very good 10MP4 sitting around. Guess I'll consider it a collector's item.

John
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  #188  
Old 07-28-2010, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeyurkon View Post
Actually I have a Canon Digital Rebel and I shot the images at 1/8 sec to make sure I had full frames. I tried turning the brightness down until it was nearly invisible, but the raster was still too bright in the photo with normal room light.
Did you also stop down the aperture? I shoot in aperture priority mode almost exclusively, so I can control how much light gets in. It can also help if you use the AE lock function (if equipped), or simply meter the shot on a different object before shooting. If you meter on the screen the rest of the frame will be dark, if you meter just below the screen the brightness of the sceen will wash out the frame. You're looking for something in between.

It can help if you put the camera into auto mode, look through the viewfinder, and see what it's using for settings on and off screen. For example if it gives you 1/8 sec@f/8 on the screen and 1/2 sec@f/2.4 off screen, try manually setting it for 1/4 sec@f/4 and see what happens. Play with it, eventually you'll get it right. here's a hint: backlighting the shot helps a lot.
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  #189  
Old 07-28-2010, 02:01 PM
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Wonderful job John! The image quality on that set is fantastic. I would be happy if some of my sets look half that good.

BTW, I got won the Veeco calibrated leak for only $52. I hope there is still some helium in it :-) Folsom arrives on Saturday and then we start playing around to see if we can get the 925-40 to opperate.
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  #190  
Old 07-29-2010, 12:59 AM
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925-40

Bob,
What is a " 925-40 "?
Leaks last what 10-20 years, plenty of helium in the quartz XTAL.
We send ours off once a year and they always come back within calibration.
Seems counterintuitive but, leave the valve open before and during the whole test or the value stamped on the leak won't be accurate.
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  #191  
Old 07-29-2010, 11:44 AM
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Terrific image on that TV. You will enjoy watching it.

Taking screen photos drives me insane. I have taken thousand of shots -- literally -- in attempts to get a true image of what the TV really looks like playing in normal room light. If the rest of the scene looks normal, the screen is always overexposed.

The only solution for me is to take two photos as you say, with the camera on a tripod. First photo with room lights up and TV turned off. Second photo with room lights lower (not completely dark) and TV turned on. For the "turned on" photos, I take a few with the TV at different brightness/contrast settings, then pick the best one later. Once you have two that look good separately, copying & pasting the screen from one to the other does the trick.

Backlighting, or indirect lighting in general, work better than a single strong source.

Glare is an issue if the TV has a flat safety glass. In some cases, I've had to use two black dropcloths to eliminate glare. One spread on the floor in front of the TV and the other pinned to the wall behind the camera. Even then, you may need to pin a black towel around the tripod legs to keep them from showing up as a reflection.

Phil
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  #192  
Old 09-29-2010, 10:05 AM
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I missed this one! Guess I shouldn't always rely on Eric to find sets for us.

http://columbus.iclassifieds.com/dro...es&i=117233274

It looks like the cabinet is in good condition. It's missing both rosettes like mine. It was listed a couple of months ago. Columbus isn't that far.

John
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  #193  
Old 09-29-2010, 07:55 PM
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Is that the same model as yours ?
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  #194  
Old 09-29-2010, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Is that the same model as yours ?
Yes. It's the same model as the one I've been recreating by using the 1-128 cabinet that my family still had and taking the 1-108 chassis from the 1-076 console and reconfiguring it to use the 12VP4 instead of the 10MP4. Fortunately the chassis are identical and just the CRT mounting is a little different.

I wish I could see a photo of the back of the one that was in Columbus so I could find out what the back cover looks like and where the AM antenna was wound.

John
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