Setup procedures

[josephdaniel]

Does anyone know where I could learn how to setup convergence, and linearity? I am pretty sure I can do linearity but I have no clue how you would setup the convergence on a old set.
Also is there a specific way I should be using the color, tint ect... controls on a set? I always set it up for a good B&W picture and then setup color from there...

[old_tv_nut]

You have the right idea for color controls. Convergence varies with set model. The general idea is usually static (center) first, then dynamic,then maybe retouch static and back to dynamic. There may be a preferred order of dynamic adjustment.

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[old_tv_nut]

There are some old books that could get you started, or the svc manual for your particular set

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[zeno]

If its an old delta tube the center is easy & always the same.
The dynamic varies but can be done without a manual.
In line tubes are different, I never could understand the
magnets, but they fell into place easily.
What is the TV & how old ??

73 Zeno

[Electronic M]

A test pattern generator or DVD is a must for convergence. You want a black background with either white dots or a grid of horizontal and vertical lines for convergence. I prefer the lines as I can see how the controls bend the sweep across the screen. IIRC you are buying a delta gun Zenith. On a delta gun set you set the static convergence by, in the center of the screen, tweaking the static red and green convergence adjustments on the yoke to over lap them to get yellow in the center (you can use the blue adjustments to move the blue out of the way for that part), you then use the blue vertical on the yoke and blue lateral (closest to the socket) to over lap the blue with the yellow to get white, then re-tweak those adjustments if need be.

For dynamic I like to get the sam's folder and follow their proceedure. It is similar to static only you want to get the edges right (Just remember within about 2" of the edge perfection is not important). You need a plastic hex diddle stick(AKA alignment tool) for static convergence as you need to adjust slugs in coils on the convergence board...Do NOT use a metal hex tool they will break the adjustable cores and even if you manage to keep them from doing damage they will change the adjustment you made the moment you remove them making things much harder to adjust.

I like to preform static convergence, then purity, and static convergence again before proceeding to dynamic convergence.

For purity I generally either play a pure red test pattern or turn the blue and green G2 Screen controls to minimum, degauss the screen with an external degauss coil, slide the deflection yoke back until there is a red blob on screen surrounded by the other colors, use the purity rings to center the spot, slide the yoke forward until the screen is filled and pure red, then re-do centering and grey-scale(if I turned the G2s down).

Centering consists of finding an image with something in the center of the frame then adjusting the horizontal and vertical centering controls(if they are present) to center it on the set's screen.

Grey-scale consists or tuning the set to a dead channel or blank black or white video signal, turning brightness and color to minimum, flipping the service switch to collapse the vertical deflection into a horizontal white line in the center of the screen, turning the G2 (AKA screens) all down to a black screen, turning the red up until you just get a dim red line turning, the green up until you turn the line yellow, then turning the blue up until you get white. If any of the colors can't produce a line turn the drive for it up until it does. Once you have a white line turn the service switch back to normal and tune a signal, adjust brightness and contrast for normal black and white picture, it blacks look tinted toward a primary or secondary color redo previous screen adjustments, if not and if whites look tinted a color adjust drive controls for white whites.

After grey-scale turn color up for reasonable color saturation and adjust tint control for good yellows or purples.

PS: Having a big easily movable mirror is essential to these procedures. Though on some 70's Zeniths they had the tremendous courtesy of hiding the convergence controls behind the speaker on the front so you could adjust the dynamic convergence controls while siting infront of the screen eliminating the need for a mirror and squinting while doing those adjustments.