I hate rust!

[bandersen]

The title says it all. Here are some of the products I've been trying lately.

Naval Jelly works fine, but takes a while and is tough to remove if left on too long.

The Rustoleum Rust Stripper is a blend of Hydrochloric and Phosphoric acids. It works faster than anything else I've tried, but the treated metal tends to re-rust within hours if left untreated.

I just picked up the Evapo-rust, Fluid Film and Boeshield T-9 from "The Rust Store". So far I've only tried the T-9 and it's working great. It's solvent based and supposed to drive out and moisture and leave a protective film of wax.

The Fluid Film supposedly does the same but without solvents.

The Evapo-rust works through a process called "chelation" rather than acid. You just submerge the rusty item and wait for the rust to go away. It'll be giving it a try soon.

Please share any rust removal and protection tips you might have

[Eric H]

Well there's electrolysis but that only works on bare metal, doing it on Cadmium plated chassis would probably leave you with a bucket full of toxic goo.

[bandersen]

Yep, I've done that too It's also a great way to remove old paint.

Don;t know about Cadmium, but Chromium compounds are very dangerous! So definitely don't try it with stainless steel.

[dtvmcdonald]

On the pieces I tried, some plain steel and some originally nickel plated,
EvapoRust left the surfaces looking more like plain steel than
Navel Jelly, which left screws lloking a chocolate
color.

Evaporust also seemed to work far better on really really thick rust since
it diffuses far faster than jelly.

But of course EvapoRust requires dipping or some sort of continuous flow to work best.

[Nuke]

I have found Naval Jelly generally works pretty well but requires multiple applications. You could just try removing loose rust and painting. That might be the safest way - no abrading and breathing in unknown metallic compounds, and you are sealing it also. Cadmium can turn your kidneys into brillo pads if you breath in too much of it.

[Username1]

Well, so for that red and white thing, It looks like it is a cabinet, so its large. And it looks like it has a fold in the metal, If it can't be taken apart, I personally would not use a chemical on it. If it were mine, I would either sand blast it, or sand remove, wire wheel, then heat it to 200 degrees, wash it with automotive etching solution, which washes off with water, use boiling water, and heat it up the rest of the way to 220 and be sure everything is dry in that crease, or crimp. Use compressed air, or nitrogen to blow it out. Then use automotive etching primer. Then regular primer, then paint it.

You will have to do the etching to etching primer pretty quick, as the etching solution makes the metal ready to oxidize, within 20 minutes....

As for a chassis, I like the idea someone said to use wax. I have a scratch in the car, I keep it waxed, and no rust.... Even up here in NY Salt Hell....

[egrand]

Here's a couple of threads from a car forum I vist about using molasses as a rust stripper. Yes, molasses. The same stuff you put on your biscuits and corn bread or to make chewy cookies.

It works through the chelation process too, like Evapo-rust, just a lot slower. However, it's a lot cheaper and probably a little more controlable. Plus the stuff can be reused several times over.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparf...light=molasses

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparf...light=molasses

[bandersen]

Here's my latest rusty challenge. It's be a good opportunity to try out these products and techniques.

Originally Posted by Username1

Well, so for that red and white thing, It looks like it is a cabinet, so its large...

It's a little 10" portable TV. You can see my hand of the left side to give some scale. Using electrolysis took the rust and paint off quickly with no nasty chemicals or fumes.

[Username1]

How about using little wire wheels and 3m type polishing pads on a dremel tool for that chassis.... Mine has a flex pencil adapter so you could get into small spots, and the bigger motor sits 3 feet away..... It's not like a chemical is going to leave you with anything more or less pretty than a wire wheel, or abrasive disk...

ebay has tons of those wheels, and other stuff direct from china for really cheap..... Just use USA eye protection, I bet those china wire wheels come apart fast...

[bandersen]

Maybe, but that sounds messy and tube sockets and parts could get damaged. Instead, I've been giving the Evapo-Rust a try over the past few days and I've got to say I've very impressed. Just chuck your rust parts in a bucket and a few hours later they're rust free. Does not harm other materials and it's biodegradable. Use it over and over til it's exhausted then pour it down the drain.

Home Depot carries something called Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath which I believe is the same stuff more or less.

[N2IXK]

That looks great! I'm just getting on a set with a badly rusted chassis, and am looking for suggestions. Does that product work if brushed onto the surface, or do you really need to soak the parts in it?

[snelson903]

i got tired of dealing with rust and nasty paint , this spring i finish my large sand blasting booth ,it sure makes fast work of everything.

[bandersen]

Originally Posted by N2IXK

That looks great! I'm just getting on a set with a badly rusted chassis, and am looking for suggestions. Does that product work if brushed onto the surface, or do you really need to soak the parts in it?

They recommend soaking a rag and lying it on the rusty surface. Then, put a plastic bag around it to keep from drying out. I tried it on a small section of the chassis and it work but not as fast as a full dunk.

Originally Posted by snelson903

i got tired of dealing with rust and nasty paint , this spring i finish my large sand blasting booth ,it sure makes fast work of everything.

Any concerns about damaging tube sockets, soft aluminum IF cans, etc ?

[snelson903]

anything that can be damaged i remove or tape off ,works great for stripping wood cabinets, paint off metal ,multi contact rotary switch's makes like new just dont be harsh with the psi, same with sockets . if there is really rusty chassie you end taking most of it apart anyway just blast and its like new again in min, its cool no more sanding and scrapping esp. wood cabinets that are loaded with old varnish ,then just lite sand out scratchs with a flat block. im still finding new use's and blast medium, i hurd of using dry ice nothing but water is left when your finished no grit to clean out off. [ remove i.f. cans and coils ] or make sure there safe.