#211
|
|||
|
|||
mini man, have you tried comparing heat in the fly using different line voltages? in some sets I know this translates into heat, but it does not seem to effect all my sets the same (I this one for example runs hot at 123 and 117 and it does not seem like the 123 is a LOT hotter than the 117, both get too hot after about 45 min to 60min of run time.
I measure them at various spots on the fly with a LED targeted hand held heat sensor. |
#212
|
||||
|
||||
I use a Variac while working on a set, but once it's finished, that baby gets plugged in the wall. They might have drawn up those schematics using 117 volts, but those sets were designed to work in the real world... where someone's line voltage was likely anything but 117.
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#213
|
||||
|
||||
Risk your flybacks at your own peril, I can only tell you that for me they have always run much cooler when the AC input voltage was set where the schematic shows- 117 AC. If you don't like the variac because it gets hot, buy an RCA isotap transformer. It has a switch instead, so you can set it and forget it.
Main reason high input voltage is bad is because it causes horizontal output cathode current to rise objectionably high, test and see for yourself. The more voltage goes into the set, the higher it will go. That's why flybacks run hotter why you plug it directly into the wall. More current=more heat, and if you're like me you don't like replacing flybacks from a preventable situation.
__________________
Evolution... |
#214
|
|||
|
|||
well its too hot at 117 or what ever is at the wall so I am going with the fan, with that it will prob not get over 90f (with it right on top of the fly).
I think I will tap the DC off the HOT cathode fuse, just use a couple alligator clips one to the chassis one to the top of the fuse (just need to be sure I don't tap the B+ fuse ) |
#215
|
|||
|
|||
made up a cardboard top, cut the hole for the fan right over the fly. The cathode supply voltage at the fuse was not enough to run the fan, so I am back to a 9v battery for now. I only cut an opening on the top for the fan, there are cooling holes on the side but I will prob open up a hole for the air to escape, but for now I am running some temp test.
I will next make up the fan supple from the 6.3v supply, seem like where the tuner connection would be a good place to tap into it. |
Audiokarma |
#216
|
||||
|
||||
Check your pile of cast-off wall warts: likely there'll be one that will run the fan. I have several in my collection that will do so and not complain.
__________________
Reece Perfection is hard to reach with a screwdriver. |
#217
|
||||
|
||||
I've been following this thread with great interest, as I have a CTC-5N in the works, but have yet to continue (the chassis is re-capped, and has been powered up using load resistors without any trouble), and the info here will be invaluable. I'm particularly interested in what is being used to remotely measure the fly temperature, and where to obtain such a device. My CTC-4 fly seems to run hotter than I would like at 117 volts, and maybe I should use a small fan for that one.
Thanks for all the info! Kevin
__________________
stromberg6 |
#218
|
|||
|
|||
good idea, I recall having one that let you select the VDC from like 6v to 12v, I could just run the wires out the back, plug both the TV and the Wallywart into a remote switch (uses a small hand held RF transmitter to turn on) to turn them both on. Side benefit, saves on the stress on the of off switch on the volume control.
Last edited by DaveWM; 02-10-2013 at 05:16 PM. |
#219
|
|||
|
|||
this is what I have been using to check temps
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_22980004-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-22980004&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=22980004&ci_gpa=pl a&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CMaZzdrurLUCFQ-ynQodBGQAIA#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_c ampaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=22980004 AKA raytek minitemp |
#220
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks! I'll order one.
Kevin
__________________
stromberg6 |
Audiokarma |
#221
|
|||
|
|||
they are a very handy tool, the LED spot makes it easy to aim.
I just tried another mount, this time I used the same cardboard top, enlarged the opening so I can move the fan around a little. the fan sits on top of a 1" thick piece of soft foam rubber (not real rubber but the kind used in packing stuff). I cut a round opening to fit the fan, but left the foam an oversize square. this lets me move the opening round on top of the cardboard, plus it spaces the fan another inch away from the damping effect of the flyback energy. the foam damps out the sound and does not pass the vibrations (little as they are) from the fan to cardboard. Bottom line is you can barely hear the fan running at all, I actually have to turn the volume down and listen closely to hear it run. Its all gerry rigged up but seems to be working great, Now I just have to find that wally wart and it will be good to go |
#222
|
|||
|
|||
12v wallywart, works great, more VDC so I think I can now work on a air filter to put on top of the fan, keep the dust level down...
|
#223
|
|||
|
|||
pics including the rigged fly cage top
|
#224
|
|||
|
|||
one more the obligatory Dorthy close up...
|
#225
|
||||
|
||||
Are you planning to replace the cardboard and foam with metal? I'd be leery about putting anything flammable in my set.
|
Audiokarma |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|