2003 Sony Trinitron KV-32HS510 video issue

[pac.attack76]

I'll probably wait till Saturday to open this up. Here's another screen. I do notice about a 3/4" drop at the top of screen as wrll

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

I'll probably wait till Saturday to open this up. Here's another screen. I do notice about a 3/4" drop at the top of screen as wrll

Put in on an unused tuner channel and see if the snow reaches the top of the frame. Even if it's down a bit, that could be a lazy 100uf/220uf in the vert amp circuit (common) or an adjustment of the vert height, neither of which would affect vertical sync.

John

[pac.attack76]

I've had it running about 20 minutes and now it tries to shut off. I try to get a video real quick.

[pac.attack76]

Here's what it did after 20 minutes warm up:

https://youtu.be/DoESqqvOedI

[Jeffhs]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

I've had it running about 20 minutes and now it tries to shut off. I try to get a video real quick.

If the set is trying to shut off after 20 minutes, there is definitely a problem somewhere, either in the LV (B+) power supply or the 2nd anode supply to the CRT; I would suspect the latter. Most color TVs of the late '70s on had an HV shutdown system in place to protect the CRT in case of abnormal increases in 2nd anode (ultor) voltage, which can and often will cause x-rays to be generated by the HV regulator tube as well as the CRT. (Remember the color TV x-ray scare of the 1970s?) I'll never forget a picture I saw in, IIRC, Popular Science magazine of the '70s which showed a man who had pressed his stomach right up against the screen of an operating color TV. The caption below the picture read, "This is the spot for a chest x-ray!"

Some of these protection systems shut down the HV immediately, resulting in a black screen, while others caused the TV to display an unwatchable picture. Either symptom demanded that the TV be shut off immediately and not used again until the problem is remedied.

BTW, these problems cannot happen with flat-screen HDTVs; even though there is high voltage on the panel, it is nowhere near the kilovolt range.

[zeno]

Look for cold joints around the hoz / HV. Looks like its totally
loosing H sweep & HV. It could easily blow the Hoz out & that will often
take out the PS.
73 Zeno

[pac.attack76]

Ok I'll get into this Saturday. I hope it's nothing real major. I turned it off when I ended the video.

[pac.attack76]

Btw, I forgot to ask, are these two problems related? With what's been going on and now this?

[JohnCT]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

Btw, I forgot to ask, are these two problems related? With what's been going on and now this?

It's old. It's a Sony...

That video you posted looks like the B+ became unregulated because it seems to be pulsing at a regular rate. As others have suggested, it could be simply bad solder.

John

[pac.attack76]

Originally Posted by JohnCT

It's old. It's a Sony...

That video you posted looks like the B+ became unregulated because it seems to be pulsing at a regular rate. As others have suggested, it could be simply bad solder.

John

I'll open it up Saturday and see what I can find

[pac.attack76]

Got the back off. Not seeing any leaky or bulging caps. Right Tom trying to figure out the easiest way to get the D board out so I can flip it but the plastic it sits on doesn't want to slide out and I'm not seeing any clips. God I hate working on the big wega sets. I only worked on one other one several years ago to change out two ic chips because it was dead with blinking led codes. Got it running only to find that it had took a pretty good hit to the top left corner and the shadow mask had shifted. Anyway, here's some pics so far. I'm gonna try to get this out and stand it up to where I can see the bottom side so I can check. Can someone circle the area I should be looking at? My eyes are not very good and also I can't get the tray that the D board is mounted to slide out.

[zeno]

You probably have two separate problems Your first was a
sync problem but good OSD. See the block diagram for hints.

The second problem NEEDS to be addressed first. If you cant find
it junk the set. And dont forget to grab yoke wedges & correction magnets !

That sub board with the giant SMD IC is probably where the sync problem lies.
Odds are a cap is bad but there are probably a crap load of 'lytics on it.
That means the others are probably on the way west. A lot of S happens on that board.

This is NOT an early SS set that can easily be repaired & you need to
keep that in mind.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

[pac.attack76]

Yeah, tell me about it. Lol. You referring to that B board for sync? I have that one out and looking at it. All the suspected caps are surface mount?

[zeno]

Originally Posted by pac.attack76

Yeah, tell me about it. Lol. You referring to that B board for sync? I have that one out and looking at it. All the suspected caps are surface mount?

Looks that way with SMD caps. To be honest if this showed up at the shop
we would most likely try to order the board. If it was NLA we would
condemn it after calling Sony TA. Some would see it as a challenge but as
a rule you would loose a LOT of $$. Cant pay the bills.....
You may want to look for an NOS board IF you fix the other problem BUT the 'lytics are old & do go bad even if never used. I know it sucks but thats the reality.

73 Zeno

[pac.attack76]

Ok ty much. I'll see if I can replace or fix but it might be a loss.